LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



j J|tap. R.41 lopsrighi |o. 

i I ^<^// -BiVii 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. | 



THE 



WHITE MOUNTAIN 



GUIDE BOOK 



?). C . ^^J*vaL/V.wJ 



ELEVENTH EDITION. 






CONCORD: 
EDSON C. EASTMAN, 

BOSTON: LEE & SHEPAPwD. 
1873. 



^Vv/- 



F^-/ 



<6' 



. r/6 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, m the year 1872, by 

SAMUEL C. EASTMAN, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



( 



KIECTKOTTPED AT THB 

Boston Stereotype Foundry, 

No. 4 Spring Lane. 

rrinted by John Wilson and Son. 



PREFACE 



It is hoped that this Guide will form the most complete, 
accurate, and reliable Guide, yet published, to the Mountain 
Region of New Hampshire. Those before issued have been 
rather guides to than through the Mountains, containing plen- 
tiful descriptions of places on the way, but scanty accounts 
of views and interesting scenes, really the object of the visit. 
Omissions and mistakes may, of course, occur. The editor 
ist very solicitous to be favored with corrections of these, 
founded upon personal knowledge. Travellers willing to 
make such communications, are requested to address them 
to the editor of the Guide Book, care of the Publisher. 

The editor has been greatly assisted in the preparation of 
this book by the late Rev. Thomas Starr King, who wrote 
the description of the eastern side of the Mountains, Rev. 
Daniel Goodwin, of Bangor, Me., and Rev. Augustus 
Woodbury, of Providence, who have each contributed 
largely to its pages. 

Tliis, the eleventh edition, has been carefully revised. Many 
additions have been made to the body of the book, and those 
errors which "have been discovered have been corrected. A 
map, showing the routes, has been prepared expressly for the 
book. A map of the mountain region, which will be found 
to be in every way reliable, also accompanies the volume ; 
it Avas prepared by Mr. Chas. H. V. Cavis, the engineer of 
the Mount Washington Carriage Road, expressly for this 
Guide Book. 

S. C. EASTMAN. 

Concord, N. H., July, 1873. 



PRELIMINARY VIEW. 



From the city of New York, the point of immediate 
departure for Southern, Western, and we may add a 
large portion of European travel into New England, 
eight distinct routes, more or less direct, lead to the 
White Mountain region of New Hampshire. Four of 
these are laid through the city of Boston ; one through 
the city of Worcester, Mass., and thence by way of 
Nashua, N. H., up the valley of the Merrimack River ; 
one through the cities of New Haven, Hartford, and 
Springfield, up the valley of the Connecticut River, by 
railroad to Littleton, within three hours' ride by stage- 
coach to Franconia ; the seventh by way of the Hudson 
River, by rail or boat, to Albany, thence to Rutland, 
and Bellows Falls, Vt., intersecting at the latter place 
with the route up the Connecticut ; and the eighth by the 
way of New London and the Connecticut valley. In 
addition to these, starting from Niagara Falls, there is 
a route down the St. Lawrence, and approaching the 
Mountains either on the northern or western side. 

The general view is as follows : — 

1. New York to Boston, via Stonington ; on 
Long Island Sound by steamboat to Stonington, 

(v) 



VI WHITE JUOUJ\rTJlIJV OUIDE. 

thence to Providence and Boston by rail, arriving at 
Boston at 5^ o'clock, A. M. 

2. Kew York to Boston, via Newport and Fall 
• River, on Long Island Sound by steamboat ; from 

Fall River by rail, arriving in Boston in season for the 
morning trains, north and east. An express train also 
leaves Fall River, at 5.50 A. M. (after breakfast on 
board the boat), for Littleton and Whitefield, via Mans- 
field, Framingham, Nashua, Concord, and Plymouth, 
without change of cars. Cars also run through without 
change over this route, leaving the Mountains in the 
morning, and connecting with the boat at Newport. 

3. New York to Boston, via New London and 
Norwich, on Long Island Sound by steamboat to New 
London ; thence over the Boston, Hartford, and Erie 
Railroad, arriving at Boston about half past five, A. M. 

4. Neav York to Boston, by railroad, from 27tli 
Street, via New Haven, Hartford, Springfield, and 
Worcester ; or by the Shore line, via New Haven, New 
London, and Providence. The cars leave New York 
at 8 o'clock, morning and evening (Sundays at 5 
P. M.), arriving at Boston about 4 P. M., and 6 A. M. 
(Mondays at 3 A. M.). Good sleeping cars accom- 
pany the night trains. 

On reaching Boston, the tourist has his choice of the 
three following routes : 

(1.) Boston to Portland, over the Boston and 
Maine Railroad from Haymarket Square, passing 
through Andover and Lawrence, Mass., Exeter and 
Dover, N. H. ; or the Eastern Railroad from Cause- 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. yW 

way Street, passing through Lynn, Salem, and New- 
buryport, Mass., and Portsmouth, N. H. The two 
roads unite at South Berwick, Me. A third route is 
by steamers from India and Commercial wharves, ait 7 
and 8 o'clock P. M., arriving at Portland early in the 
morning. Arriving at Portland, in four hours from 
Boston, the traveller can immediately leave (after re- 
freshment) for the " Alpine " or " Glen " House, 
Gorham, N. H., by the Grand Trunk Railway, or for 
North Conway and the Mountains, by the Portland and 
Ogdensburgh Railway. By either route the Mountains 
can be reached in less than twenty-four hours from New 
York, leaving that city in the afternoon or evening. 
North Conway may also be reached, via the Eastern 
Railroad to Great Falls, and thence by the Great Falls 
and Conway Railroad. 

(2.) Boston to Dover, N. H., by Boston and Maine 
Railroad ; thence by Dover and Winnipiseogee Railroad 
to Alton, N. H., at the southern end of Lake Winni- 
pesaukee ; thence by steamer Mt. Washington over the 
Lake to Wolfeborongh and Centre Harbor, dining on 
board the boat, and reaching those places in season for a 
stage-coach to North Conway ; thence to the Mountains 
by stage and rail the next morning. 

(3.) Boston to Concord, N. H., by Boston and 
Maine, Concord, Manchester and Lawrence Rail- 
roads (Haymarket Square), passing througli Law- 
rence, Mass., and jManchester, N. H. At the latter 
place, a train from Boston, via Lowell and Nashua, over 
Lowell (Causeway Street) , and Lowell and Nashua Rail- 



Vlll WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

roads, unites with this route, and both streams of travel 
pour on together to Concord, N. H. Here connec- 
tions are made with (a.) the Northern Railroad, which 
connects at "White River Junction with the route up the 
Connecticut. Passengers by this route reach the Pro- 
file House, by way of Littleton, the same evening 
at 7 o'clock, and the Crawford House, at 9. (5.) 
The Montreal Railroad, by which passengers proceed 
to the Weirs Station, Lake Winnipesaukee, whence 
the Steamer Lady of the Lake conveys them to 
Centre Harbor in season for the afternoon stage to 
North Conway, via West Ossipee. If the tourist desires 
to reach Franconia on the same day, he passes by rail 
upon the same road, to Plymouth, N. H., where he stops 
to dine at the Pemigewasset House, and takes the after- 
noon stage for the Profile House, arriving about 7 
o'clock P. M., or he may go to Littleton and arrive 
about half an hour later. Leaving New York in the 
afternoon, one could reach White Mountain Notch, 
Franconia, or North Conway, if he so desired, on the 
evening of the next day. 

5. New York to Concord, N. H., byway of Nor- 
wich, Worcester, and Nashua. The traveller reaches 
Worcester by rail through New Haven, &c., or by boat 
and rail through New London. Connections are made 
directly with the Worcester and Nashua Railroad, and 
he proceeds without detention, except for refreshment, to 
Nashua, N. H. Here he takes the cars of the Concord 
Railroad for Concord, N. H., and has the choice of the 
routes enumerated above. The time required is the 
same as that for the preceding route. 



fFIIITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. ix 

6. New York to the Profile House, Franconia, 
OR the Crawford House, White Mountain Notch, 
by rail, except the last twelve miles from Littleton or 
Bethlehem. The traveller by this route leaves New York 
by the New York and New Haveu Railroad, and pro- 
ceeds as far as Springfield, Mass., without change of cars. 
At this place he takes the cars of the Connecticut River 
Railroad, passing through Northampton and Holyoke, 
and in sight of Mt. Tom on the west side, and Mt. Hol- 
yoke on the east side of the river, through Greenfield 
to South Vernon, Vt. From this place the Vermont 
Valley Railroad passes through Brattleborough to Bel- 
lows Falls. Thence the route proceeds by Sullivan 
Railroad to Windsor, Vt. ; thence by Vermont Central 
Railroad to White River Junction, where the route by 
Northern Railroad connects ; thence by Passumpsic 
Railroad to Wells River ; thence by White Mountains 
Railroad to Littleton, and thence by stage to the Profile 
or Crawford House. This route, after leaving Hart- 
ford, continues up the valley of the Connecticut, till it 
reaches Wells River, and affords a view of the beautiful 
scenery which makes this valley a " garden of delight." 
By the train that leaves New York at 8 o'clock in the 
morning, the night must be passed at Bellows Falls, 
which is reached at 5.50 P. M., or at White River 
Junction, which is reached at 8.25 P. M. In the former 
case the route is continued the next morning at 11.45, 
reaching the mountains in the evening. If the night 
is passed at White River Junction, the route is contin- 
ued in the morning at 8.20, arriving at the mountains 
before dinner. Leaving New York at 12.15 P. M., 



X WHITE MOUJVT^LY GUIDE. 

White River Junction is reached at 11.45 P. M., and 
where the night must be passed, and the route contin- 
ued the next morning as before. Leaving by the 3 or 
8 P. M. train, the night is passed at Springfield, which 
is reached at 8.10 P. M., and 1.10 A. M., respectively, 
and the route continued the next morning at 8 A. M., 
reaching the mountains in the evening." 

7. New York to Franconia, via Albany, Rut- 
land, and Bellows Falls, Vt. Passengers leave New 
York by Hudson River Railroad, or by boat, reaching 
Troy in season for the cars over the Rutland and 
Washington, or Western Vermont Railroad, to Rut- 
land, where they remain over night ; leaving by early 
train the next morning, they reach Bellows Falls in 
time to connect with the trains north, to Windsor, 
White River, and Littleton, thus uniting at Bellows 
Fails with the route just named. The time is the 
same as by route No. 6. This is, without doubt, the 
most beautiful and satisfactory of all the routes pro- 
posed. Besides the magnificently varied scenery of 
the Hudson, one enjoys to the highest degree the ride 
through the mountain State of Vermont. Her hills 
are covered with verdure to the very summits, and 
the little hamlets that nestle in the valleys are the 
abodes of comfort, and happiness, and virtue. There 
is, too, 

"A newer life in every gale," 

as the fresh mountain air, with its invigorating influ- 
ence, brings the roses to the cheeks, and vivifies the 
frame. 



WHITE MOUJ\rTJiIJ^ GUIDE. Xl 

8. New York to Franconia and the White 
Mountain Notch, via Long Island Sound, as in route 
3, and thence by rail over the New London Northern 
Railroad, leaving New London at 5 A. M., through 
Palmer, Grant's Corner, and thence via Brattleboro*, 
as in route 6, arriving at the niountains in the evening. 

9. Niagara to the White Mountains, by boat 
down the St. Lawrence to Montreal or Quebec, or by 
cars on the Grand Trunk Railway, and thence by the 
Grand Trunk Railway to Gorham, N. H. Or, the cars 
may be left at Northumberland and thence by the White 
Mountains Railroad to Lancaster, to the Notch or the 
Profile House. So also at Lennoxville, a connection 
is made with the Passurapsic River Railroad. At Sher- 
brooke there is a stage connection with Outlet Village, 
on Lake Memphremagog. Montreal may also be left by 
the Vermont Central route, via St. Albans. Finally, 
the Grand Trunk may be left still earlier at Ogdensburg, 
and the traveller may proceed directly to Rouse's Point, 
over the Ogdensburg Railroad, and thence over the Ver- 
mont and Canada and Vermont Central. 



Note. — We cannot too strongly recommend the 
necessity, to the tourist, of sufficient and water-proof 
clothing. The weather is so uncertain among the 
mountains, that it is well to be prepared to defy the 
elements. The coolness of the atmosphere renders 
extra clothing necessary, while rubber boots, capes for 
ladies, and overcoats for gentlemen, will enable one to 
enjoy the scenerv, whatever aspect the face of the sky 
may wear. 



Xii WHITE MOUJ^^TAIJ\r GUIDE. 

Hotels. 
"We are unable to state definitely what will be the 
hotel fares the present season. It is probable, how- 
ever, that the Mountain Houses will charge $4.50 per 
day, and those more accessible to markets, $4.00, — 
though these prices may be modified by circumstances. 



GUIDE 



The Mountain Region. 

FTER having 
given this pre- 
liminary view 
of the differ- 
ent approaches 
to the White 
Mountains, we 
propose to pre- 
sent a particu- 
lar view of the 
Mountain region. After 
this is completed, we 
will give a more detailed 
account of the differ- 
ent routes before men- 
tioned. We shall thus be 
enabled to give a greater symmetry to the whole book 
than could be obtained by first giving the routes io, 
and then through^ the region to be visited. As the 
various roads approach the Mountains at different 

(13) 




14 WHITE M0UJ^Tj3IJ\r GUIDE. 

points, we shall also avoid much needless repetition. 
The size of the book will thus be diminished, while its 
convenience for consultation will be greatly increased. 

We will commence, then, at Gorham, N. H., on the 
eastern side of the Mountains. 

GoKHAM is a thriving village, which has been built 
up on the banks of the Androscoggin by the business 
which the Railroad and the Hotel have brou(rht. The 
Alpine House is one of the largest of the hotels in 
the White Mountain region. It is the most substan- 
tially built of all. Under the charge of Mr. Hitch- 
cock, it is admirably kept. Passengers are deposited 
from the cars directly in front of the house. The 
main building is one hundred feet in front by fifty in 
width, and is three stories high. There is an L of 
the same dimensions. The dining-room is a noble hall, 
eighty feet by thirty. The house can accommodate 
between two and three hundred guests.* 

The Alpine House is situated in a valley at the 
junction of the Androscoggin and Peabody Rivers. 
The valley is 800 feet above the sea. The breadth of 
it is so great that the air is more dry, pure, and bra- 
cing than in the more narrow passes directly under 
the lofty summits, where many of the larger public 
houses are placed. On this account it has often been 
found more grateful and propitious to invalids, who 
are advised to try the mountain atmosphere. There is 
a post-office in the hotel. Mails are received every 
day from Montreal, and twice a day by railroad from 
Boston and Portland. There is also a telegraph sta- 
* See Addenda. , 



WHITE MOUJVT^rJ^ GUIDE. 15 

tion connecting with Portland, and a line over Mt. 
Washington, via the Glen House. 

The scenery immediately around the Alpine House, 
in the Gorham village, when the proper points are 
sought for enjoying it, is very interesting. It is the 
only point from which the beauty of the range of Mo- 
riah. Carter, and the Imp, can be seen to advantage. 
Mt. Carter is about 5,000 feet in height. The base 
from Avhich it rises being much lower than the level 
of the Franconia Notch, the summit of Carter is really 
higher, as seen from Gorham, than Mt. Lafayette, 
the highest of the Franconia range, is from the lovely 
Echo Lake, near the Profile House. And there are 
few more charming spectacles among the mountains 
than the heavy shadows that are tangled in the deep- 
cut stairways of Mt. Carter, contrasted with the soft 
lights that lie on its steep, unbroken forests in a clear 
summer afternoon. Mt. Moriah, some 200 feet lower 
than Mt. Carter, is remarkable for the rolling, billowy 
lines that flow from its dome along its huge mass to 
the valley. It is, perhaps, the most graceful in its 
outline of any of the larger New Hampshire hills. 
The true position from which to detect its beauty and 
appreciate its height is at the bend of the Andros- 
coggin, near " Lary's," about a mile above the Alpine 
House. If the visitor will take this walk just before 
a clear sunset, he will see the whole ridge bathed in 
the richest purple — a sight that is one of the most 
agreeable rewards of a mountain journey. Only the 
Mountains on the westerly side of the Peabody River 



16 



WHITE MOUJVTjIIJV OUIDE. 




are visible from the hotel, owing to the hill imme- 
diately in front of the house. The trees, however, 
have been cut away on a portion of it, so that the 
summit of Mt. Madison now peers down into the val- 



WHITE J\IOUJVT^IJ\r GUIDE. l7 

ley through the gap. This is the only one of the group 
standing guard about Mt. Washington visible from this 
point, though most fascinating views of the range may 
be obtained by a short walk. 

The lower mountain that stands between Moriah 
and Carter is called the Imp. 

The noble chain of hills to the north-west of the 
Alpine House is known as the Pilot range. The lines 
they cut against a clear and burning evening sky are 
very charming. To the east and south-east, Gorham 
is walled in by the stalwart and brawny Androscoggin 
hills. The noblest of these is Mt. Hayes, directly 
behind the Alpine House. Its name was given in 
honor of Mrs. Hayes, who was once associated as 
landlady in the management of the hotel, and who 
is gratefully remembered by all guests who became 
acquainted Avith her. The mountain stands now the 
noblest external monument to her memory. 

The first thing which travellers usually wish to 
know, Avhen they arrive in Gorham, is the distance to 
Mt. Washington, and the time and method of making 
the ascent. The base of Mt. Washington is at the 
distance of eight miles from the railroad station at 
Gorham. Stages are in waiting, at every train, to 
convey passengers to the Glen House, Avhich is situ- 
ated at this point. The ascent of the mountain, since 
the completion of the carriage road to the summit, 
is most commonly made in light, covered wagons. 
Those who prefer horseback riding can still make the 
ascent in that way over a most excellent road. Which- 
2 



18 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

ever way may be preferred, parties can start from 
either hotel. If travellers are in a hurry to reach 
the Glen House, and prefer to start from that point, 
they ride in stages eight miles to that hotel, and take 
horses or carriages there. The landlord of the Al- 
pine House also keeps a stable of excellent mountain 
horses and carriages in connection with his hotel. If 
travellers desire, therefore, they can have a wagon 
from Gorham, be driven to the base of the mountain, 
and with the same wagon and horses, make the as- 
cent, and stay at the Glen House when they descend, 
or ride back at once to the Alpine House. The road 
is precisely the same, and the expense of ascending 
the mountain the same, in whichever way the excur- 
sion is made. It is well to know, however, that con- 
veyance is furnished from Gorham as well as from 
the Glen ; for it sometimes happens that travellers 
arrive in Gorham by the eleven o'clock forenoon train 
from Portland, who would like to make the ascent of 
Mt. Washington that day, and return to Portland 
or go on to Montreal the next morning. This is 
almost always practicable, and has often been done 
from Gorham. By taking a wagon from the Alpine 
House, the base of Mt. Washington is reached more 
quickly than by stage ; the ascent is made in the after- 
noon, and the conveyance is in waiting to return the 
passenger, as soon as he descends, to the Alpine House 
again. 

But if travellers are not in a great hurry, they 
should certainly make their plans to see the striking 



WHITE MOUJVT^IjY GUIDE. 19 

scenery that is offered near the Alpine House. No 
point in the whole mountain region presents more at- 
tractions within reach of a short and delightful wagon 
drive, a pleasant horseback ride up a bridle path, or a 
tolerably easy mountain-scramble. The first of these 
excursions to which we will call attention is that to 

The Lead Mine Bridge. 

The name is derived from an abandoned lead mine 
about six miles below Gorham, on the eastern bank of 
the Androscoggin, in Shelburne. The bridge is about 
four miles from the Alpine House, and can be easily 
reached in three quarters of an hour. The proper time 
to visit it is in the latter part of a summer afternoon, 
when the golden light is on the meadows, and the long 
shadows are falling athwart the mountains. There is 
no spot in the Avhole mountain region where the beauty 
of the river is joined «o charmingly to the majesty of 
the hills. No river view can be more fascinating than 
that of the noble Androscog^^in breaking around eme- 
raid islands with clean sandy shores, sweeping around 
the base of a lofty cliff, and joining its parted currents 
again into one strong tide just above the bridge where 
one stands. And then, a few miles distant, enthroned 
over the narrow valley, as though the stream flowed 
directly from their bases, rises the heavy dome of Mt. 
Washington, in company with the clear-cut, exquisite 
pyramid of Madison, with the crest of Adams rising 
directly behind it. 

The height of the noblest mountains is never appro- 



20 WHITE JHOUJ\rTJlIJV GUIDE. 

ciated by going close to their base, if they are fore- 
shortened by ridges intervening between the eye and 
the supreme summits. The Lead Mine Bridge is just 
far enough away from the White Hills to allow their 
height to make its true impression. And whoever sees 
Mt. Madison thus, in a clear afternoon, will recall the 
impression it makes, as perhaps the loveliest picture 
which the White Mountain journey leaves in the 
memory. Three hours from the Alpine House will 
give ample time for the excursion. Teams and drivers 
are always in readiness for the accommodation of 
guests. By taking the day, or even the whole after- 
noon, for the excursion, one cannot do better than to 
prolong the ride to Shelburne and Gilead along the 
Androscoggin. Some fine views of the mountains may 
be thus obtained. 

Next among the privileges of Gorham we must speak 
of a drive from the Alpine Hou,^ to 

Randolph Hill. 
This hill is on the road to the villages of Randolph 
and Jefferson, and is about five miles from the hotel. 
There is no climbing to be done ; the wagon is driven 
directly to the summit, which is about six hundred feet 
higher than the hotel, and the road is excellent. By 
this drive one is taken directly to the northerly base of 
Madison and Adams. He sees the whole northerly 
wall of the Mt. Washington range from crest to valley. 
The height is far greater than the wall of the Craw- 
ford 'Notch. There is no point where, standing so near, 



WHITE MOUJVT^IJSr GUIDE. 21 

any of the AVTiite Mountains look so lofty and so grand. 
Certainly no valley view can be gained of Mt. Wash- 
ington that compares Avith the grandeur of Adams from 
this position. The sense of height, the tremendous 
mass, the grand natural masonry, the rich forest ver- 
dure, the silence, the twin outlines of the two moun- 
tains, and the symmetry of the gray and blasted peaks 
that rise and face each other above the vast wilderness 
that clothes their sides, combine to make an impression 
on the eye and soul that years will not efface . Here, 
too, is peculiarly felt that harmony and symmetry of all 
mountain outlines, when massed together, those of the 
smaller hills being reproduced by the higher summits, 
all pointing to one common centre of towering preemi- 
nence. A traveller should not fail to take this view, 
if possible ; and no discomfort is connected with the 
excursion. An hour is sufficient for the drive to Ran- 
dolph Hill from the Alpine House, and three quarters 
of an hour for the return. 

We must call attention, next, to 

Berlin Falls. 
Those who love water-views and cataract-scenery 
■will say that these Falls are the richest of all the 
attractions that invest Gorham. They are situated six 
miles from the Alpine House. But the road that leads 
to them is excellent ; the drive is taken in an hour ; 
and the scenery on the way, along the west bank of 
the Androscoggin, is continually noble, wild, and stim- 
ulating. The mountains seem to overhang the stream, 



22 



WHITE M0UJ\rTJ9IJ\r GUIDE. 



and add greatly to the interest of the drive. It is no 
rivulet or mountain cascade one visits at Berlin. The 
whole Androscoggin, fed from a branch of Lake Umba- 
gog, and never low even in a drought, like the Upper 
Connecticut, pours here down a rocky gateway. It is 
a long, swift rapid, broken here and there by a direct 
and powerful fall. In the course of a mile the river 
descends nearly two hundred feet. The road winds 
directly by the river, and there is no hard clambering 
or Avet Avalking in the excursion. 

The first view as one alights from the wagon reveals 
the river for a quarter of a mile flecked with little white 
caps at the uppermost rapids, then plunging in a wind- 
ing rush of foam, then calmed again, and flowing with 
its ruffled caps towards Gorham. After taking this 
general look, which is very fascinating, we must select 




fVfflTR JUO(rjV7\/llJ\r GtUDK. 23 

points for observing the heavier pitches of the river, 
and estimating the force of the cataract. We must go 
down upon a jutting rock that faces the sweeping flood, 
and see the last leap of the mad tide over a huge 
boulder, before it settles into common rapids again ; we 
must go up, and stand on the bridge that crosses the 
narrowest gully, and watch the foam sweep underneath 
like a race-horse — the backwater from each side over- 
laying the central current, so that it rushes in wedge 
shape, through the gorge ; especially must we go last 
above the bridge, and sit down upon the rocks, to watch, 
at leisure, the first and deepest plunge of the river. Al- 
though the bridge is very near, one has no conception, 
in looking from it, of the grandeur of tliis portion of 
the fiill. One can sit by it for an hour with increasing 
delight. Visitors have said that it repaid for the cost 
and time of a visit to the mountains, and that all the 
other scenery was extra. The power of this part of 
the fall is so satisfactory, the quantity of water so 
great, and the flood of foam that sweeps aw ay from it 
so full of life, that we have never been able to recall, 
while sitting there, aught that surpasses it, in the 
suggestion of power, but the English fall at Niagara. 
We quote the declaration of a prominent poet of New 
England, given with emphasis on the spot once, in our 
hearing, when we say that it is better worth visiting 
than the Falls of St. Anthony. 

There is a hotel at Berlin called the Berlin Falls 
House, so that visitors can now have the cool parts 
of the day, and especially a full-moonlight even- 



24 WHITE MOUJVT^IJSr GUIDE. 

ing, for wandering around the banks, and enjoying the 
rapids and plunges of the river. 

A visit to the falls is easily made from the Alpine 
House between breakfast and dinner, or in the after- 
noon before tea. But one needs to go several times, 
as at Trenton, and also to have leisure for studying the 
grand forms and summits of the outer White Moun- 
tains, which tower, with a symmetry that does not dis- 
turb their solid and serious majesty, a little to the west. 
In fact, the mountain panorama, visible from the road 
just above the falls, is one of the most inspiring to be 
found within the compass of the New Hampshire tour. 
But noontime is the Avorst season for a visit to the cata- 
ract, on account of heat. In July or August, a cool 
day, or a cloudy one, would be best. 

It would be among the richest joys of a September 
visit to Gorham, to give the heart of one of its clear 
bracing days to an excursion along the Androscoggin, 
dining on the rocks above the bridge ; and, returning 
towards sunset, to face for the most of the way the 
great White Mountain range, stained with a glorious 
brown light, and the range of Moriah and Carter lift- 
ing purple peaks and ridges against the blue southern 
sky. Here, too, if one has time, the drive may be 
prolonged, with great advantage, some four miles to 
Milan. At this distance from the base, the effects of 
the foreshortening are removed, and Mt. Washington, 
which, at the falls, was concealed by Madison and 
Adams, is now visible above them, manifesting its 
supremacy. 



WHITE MOUJfTAIJf GUIDE. 25 

But besides the attractions to be reached by wagon 
rides, there are excursions to be made from the Alpine 
House, on horseback or on foot, that must be spoken of. 

The Ascent of Mount Moriah 
is the first to be named. There was formerly an excel- 
lent bridle-path to the summit, and a large log-cabin for 
protection against a sudden shower. For the past few 
years, however, the carriage road up Mt. Washing- 
ton has attracted the greater part of the travel, so that 
the path has not been reopened. The mountain is 
4,700 feet in height. It can still be reached on foot, 
and the bridle-path can easily be reopened. The 
ascent will furnish a very charming excursion for those 
who care to undergo the fatigue. Now and then, 
through the trees, a glimpse is gained of a grand col- 
iseum of pines on the steep and crescent sides of a 
near mountain, from which a ravine separates you. 
Now and then you come upon some bare ledge or 
shoulder, from which you look down the valley of the 
Androscoggin for miles, and admire the forethought of 
Nature in leaving this easy track, among these billowy 
ridges of land, for the Grand Trunk Railway. Soon 
you plunge into the woods again, and are borne up and 
up by the panting horse till the shrubs begin to grow 
scanty, and suddenly you are on the desolate and jagged 
peak. What a view ! The whole region seems thrown 
into wildest confusion. The eye must travel far to 
the south-west to rest upon any extent of level land. 
Northern New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine are a 



26 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

vast panorama of solid surges. On the west the dis- 
tant view is barred by the heavy forms of the great 
White Mountain range proper. 

In this respect a visit to Mt. Moriah is more inter- 
esting than to Mt. Washington ; for here Mt. Wash- 
ington is part of the landscape. Its height and mass, 
and the grandeur of its fellow-peaks, can be relatively 
measured, as they cannot when one stands on their 
ridges. 

But it may be that the traveller does not care to 
make an ascent of a mountain so high as this, in addi- 
tion to the ascent of Mt. Washington, or instead of that 
ascent. We will call attention, therefore, to 

Mount Surprise, 
and the charm of the prospect that is opened from it. 
This mountain is directly in front of the Alpine House. 
It is, in fact, one of the spurs of Mt. Moriah, and is 
about 1,200 feet in height. The bridle-path to the top 
is not difficult at all in the ascent. Good walkers can 
gain the crest, which is about two miles and a half 
from the hotel, without trouble in an hour and a half, 
and can return in half that time. It is an easy and 
charming horseback excursion for ladies. And the view 
which the summit offers is different in character from 
any that we recall in the mountain region. It suggests 
the marvellous picture of the Notch seen from Mt. 
Willard. The height of Mt. Surprise is about the 
same as that of Mt. Willard ; and it commands the 
great cleft between Mt. Carter and the White Moun- 



WHITE MOUJ^TAJJ^ GUIDE, 27 

tains, through which the Peabody River flows, as Mt. 
Willard commands the Notch and the infant Saco. 

The top of Mt. Surprise is worth visiting, apart from 
the view it furnishes, for the revelation it offers of the 
savage ruin which fire and winds can work on the hills. 
Scores of great tree-trunks, stripped, charred, and half 
consumed, are heaped and twisted over an acre or two 
of the crest and side of the hill, in impressive confu- 
sion. The whole scene is the hieroglyphic autobio- 
graphy, it may be, of the destructive partnership of 
July lightning and January gale. The chief payment 
for the ascent, however, is not this broad " charcoal 
sketch" of ravage, but the sight, gained amid that 
dingy desolation, of the grandest portions of the White 
Mountain ridge. The highest summits of the range 
rise directly against the eye. There is no intervening 
ridge or obstacle. You look down 1,200 feet to the 
bed of the Peabody, which is fed from the great range, 
and up along the unbroken forests to the peak of Mt. 
Madison, the crest of Adams that overtops it, and, at 
the south-west of these, the summit of Jefferson, and 
the mass of Mt. Washington. There is no other emi- 
nence where one can get so near to these monarchs, 
and receive such an impression of their sublimity, the 
vigor of their outlines, their awful solitude, and the 
extent of the wilderness which they bear upon their 
slopes. The scene is so wild and glorious, and the cost 
of labor to gain it so slight, that it is a pity any visi- 
tants of the eastern side of the mountains should fail to 
add it to their treasures of memory. And besides this 



28 WHITE Mouj\rTJiJj\r guide. 

view of the great range, the outlook from Mt. Surprise 
over the mountains of the North, and up the valley 
through which the Androscoggin twists its way, is very 
grand. On horseback from the Alpine House, the 
whole jaunt can be made in two hours and a half, with 
ample time for the Summit. 
We have already spoken of 

Mount Hayes, 
which rises just behind the Alpine House, beyond the 
Androscoggin. There is now a bridle-path to the top 
of this eminence, and it should be celebrated as afford- 
ing the grandest landscape view of Madison, Adams, 
and Washington, to be obtained in New Hampshire. 
It is also an easy pedestrian excursion, and no one who 
visits Gorham, and who has a love of mountain scram- 
bles, should fail to make the ascent of Mt. Hayes. 
About two hours from the base will be sufficient to 
gain the top. The picture from the summit can- 
not be suthciently praised. The view of Adams 
and Madison, sweeping from the uplands of Ran- 
dolph, will never be forgotten. And Mt. Washington 
shows no such height, or grandeur, when seen from 
any other point. Mt. Washington does not show its 
superior height, or look grander in form, than the asso- 
ciated peaks, from any position in the valleys near Gor- 
ham and the Glen. But from Mt. Hayes its superemi- 
nence and majesty are caught and appreciated. That 
Summit seems to be the chair set by Providence at the 
right distance and angle to observe and enjoy its ma- 



WHITE MOUJ^TJIIJ^ GUIDE. 29 

jesty, its symmetry, and the proud grace with which 
its " airy citadel " is sustained against the sky. And 
by way of dessert to this substantial feast of mountain 
grandeur, a most charming view of the curves of the 
Androscoggin for twenty miles, of its exquisite islands, 
and of the meadows which it threads, is given from 
Mt. Hayes. 

There is another pedestrian excursion possible from 
Gorham, of which we should not fail to speak. Wc 
mean the 

Ascent of Mount Madison, 
from the foot of Randolph Hill, and a visit to the 
northerly ridge and summits of the White Mountain 
group. To those who love mountain climbing, and the 
wildest scenery which the hills can exhibit, no more 
tempting expedition than this can be proposed. Several 
parties made this excursion in 1857, sometimes camp- 
ing out in a ravine, or on the ridge. Their reports of 
the grandeur and magnificence of the views that re- 
warded their toil are very inspiring. A company of 
strong pedestrians, starting from the Alpine House, 
Gorham, early in the morning, and riding to the base 
of Mt. Madison, at the foot of Randolph Hill, could 
ascend Mt. Madison, pass over its summit, around or 
over the sharp pyramid of Adams, over Jefferson, be- 
tween the humps of Mt. Clay, and reach the house on 
the top of Mt. Washington, before sunset. 

Such a route would lie among and over the largest 
-nountains of the rano^e. Between Madison and Adams 



30 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

the party would see the noblest outlines of rocky preci- 
pice and crest which the whole range can furnish, for 
they would stand directly between the steep pinnacles 
of those noble hills, that spring from the ridge. They 
could climb to the sharp apex of Adams. They would 
see the glorious picture of Washington, that starts out 
in crossing from Adams to Jefferson. The long east- 
erly slope is shown from its base in the Pinkham for- 
ests ; the cone towers sheer out of " The Gulf of Mex- 
ico ; " and every rod of the carriage-road is visible 
from the Ledge to the Summit House. 

And the route brings into view all the great ravines 
of the range, except ^' Tuckerman's." One will see the 
long and narrow gully between Madison and Adams, 
and the tremendous hollow of Adams itself on the 
north, which was climbed for the first time, in 1857, by 
a party formed by the now universally lamented Starr 
King, and which is called by the guides " King's 
Ravine." He will see the precipitous gulf between 
Adams and Jefferson on the south-east ; the deep-cut 
gorge in Jefferson on the north-west, whose bones of gray 
cliff, breaking bare through the steep verdure, will be 
remembered as the most picturesque of all the scenes 
which the day gives. He will wind around the chasm 
between Jefferson and Clay, divided from the savage 
" Gulf of Mexico " by a spur of Jefferson that runs 
out toward the Glen House. And he will gaze off with 
delight upon the long rolling braces that prop Mt. 
Pleasant, and Franklin, and the tawmy Monroe — the 
boundaries of the ravines that one sees, in riding to 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 31 

Mt. Washington from the Notch, over the Crawford 
bridle-path. 

A path through the forest of Mt. Madison to the 
summit, from the foot of Randolph Hill, has been 
" blazed " by Mr. Gordon, of Gorham. Mr. Gordon, 
now deceased, was a most admirable guide, and his 
memory will long be cherished by those whom he has 
served. Mr, Calhaine, who owns a farm in the Pea- 
body valley, near where the view of the Imp is to be 
had, will be found a worthy wearer of Mr. Gordon's 
mantle. Travellers can easily learn at the Alpine 
House how to engage him for any service. Among 
other excursions that may be made is the ascent of 
Mt. Washington over Adams, clambering up the 
ravine. 

Routes to the Notch. 

Since the completion of the carriage road on the east 
and the Railroad on the west side of the Mountains, 
nearly all the travel passes over Mt. Washington, and 
comparatively few persons go by the old stage routes. 
These, however, have not lost their charm, and should 
be mentioned here, so that if the traveller has made the 
ascent of Mt. Washington, and does not care to pass 
over the summit, but prefers the pleasures of the moun- 
tain views from below, he may not be deprived of the 
trip by ignorance. 

There are two roads from Gorham to the Notch. 
One passes through the Glen, the Pinkham Notch, Jack- 
son, and then up the valley of the Saco, in Bartlett, 



32 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

through the Notch to the Crawford House. The dis- 
tance from Gorham is forty -three miles. The stages 
start from the Glen House, and leave about eight o'clock 
in the morning. To go by this route, one must leave 
Gorham the night before. We shall speak of this route 
more at length hereafter. 

The Cherry Mountain Road 

is the other route to the Notch. The distance is thirty- 
two miles. There is no regular stage, but teams can be 
obtained of Mr. Hitchcock, if desired. The distance to 
the Twin Mountain House is thirty miles. 

This has always been a favorite route, for the scenery 
along almost the whole line of the road is grander than 
by any other stage route among the mountains. It 
takes in the glorious spectacle from Randolph Hill, of 
which we have spoken. It commands every slope and 
summit of the Mt. Washington range from the north ; 
and for some twelve miles of the way they are all in 
view at once, with no intervening hills to break the im- 
pression of their majesty. Such a view can be gained 
on no other road ; and the forms of the mountains on 
the northerly slope are grander than on the southerly 
side. From the village of JeiFerson, through which 
this Cherry Mountain road runs, not only is every one 
of the Great White Mountain group visible, but also 
the Franconia Mountains, the side of the Willey Moun- 
tain in the Notch, the line of the nearer Green Moun- 
tains beyond the Connecticut, — in fact, a panorama of 



WHITE MOUJ^TTAIJ^ GUIDE. ?33 

hills) to the north-west and north, almost as fine as the 
prospect in that direction from the summit of Mt. 
Washington. To see this picture would richly repayi a 
drive from Cxorham and return, if the traveller did not 
desire to pass on to the Notch. The noblest part of 
the view can Oe had, without leaving the wagon, froni a 
hill in Jefferson, aT)out seventeen miles from the Alpine 
House. At tnis pomt, and commanding a noble view 
of the whole White and Franconia range, is situated a 
well-conducted hotel, called the Waumbeck House', 
kept by W. P. Merrill. The charges here are very- 
reasonable. It is a favorite place of resort for those 
who are desirous of obtaining pure mountain airl 
Starr King Mountain, in the rear of the house, is easily 
ascended. From the piazza of the hotel, with a glassy 
people on thC' summit of Mt. Washington can be dis+- 
tinctly seen. The distance from the hotel to the White 
Mountain Notch is seventeen miles ; to the Profile 
House, by the way of Whitefield and Bethlehem, twenty- 
eight miles ; to the Glen House by the road around 
the base of Madison, twenty miles ; to Littleton, twenty 
miles. One should be sure to engage the carriage to 
go by the way of Jefferson, so as to obtain the fine view 
from the Waumbeck House. 

Should one prefer to go to Franconia from the Alpine 
House, instead of riding over the Cherry Mountairi 
road to the Notch, an arrangcincnt can easily bo 
made with Mr. Hitchcock. The road is the same with 
that just described, till it reaches a point a short dis- 
tance beyond Jefferson, where it diverges into the valley 
3 



84 WHITE MOUJ^TjlIJ\r GUIDE. 

of the Israel River. Then, passing through the pleas- 
ant, cleanly, and thrifty town of Whitefield, it climbs 
the hills that rise to the plateau of Bethlehem. Leav- 
ing the Alpine House in the morning, the traveller can 
take his dinner and his noontide rest at the "SYaumbeck 
House, noticed above, in Jefferson, and then spend the 
hours of the long summer afternoon in the charming 
ride. Passing through Bethlehem an hour or two be- 
fore dark, he can reach the Profile House early in the 
evening, Avhere the Aveary but tlioroughly delighted guest 
can find a hospitable welcome and abundant cheer. 

The return ride from Franconia and the Notch to 
Gorham, by Cherry Mountain, is, in some respects, su- 
perior to tlie ride the other way. From Jefferson to 
Gorham, it is certainly more grand than Avhen facing in 
the other direction. 

For several miles we front the four higliest moun- 
tains of the ridge, and seem to be riding into them, 
with no chance of a detour. How massive they ap- 
pear as we draw nearer and nearer ! The summits 
seem to be of about equal height, and instead of pre- 
senting thin and gullied sides, all their lines run out- 
Vard towards us, and are firmly braced in the valley, 
as though they were immense forts, once upheaved and 
buttressed with granite ridges, to defend an army of a 
larger mould than our race against a siege. The 
Kotch itself is hardly more majestic than this quadruple 
fortification, Avhich glooms and darkens more and more 
upon the eye as we ride nearer to it, and which springs 
out of a wild forest as yet almost unvi sited by man. 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE, 35 

For several miles the vision lasts. Then Washington 
drops away from the company, and we are left Avith 
Jefierson, Adams, and Madison. Next, Jefferson with- 
draws, and we ride by the base of the remaining two. 
Soon their grand lines untwist, and their rocks seem, 
as it were, to be dishevelled, till we gain the summit of 
Randolph Hill, overlooking Gorham, and find that, 
by inexplicable magic, they have been transformed into 
superb symmetry again, and hide from the delighted 
eye every trace of those glorious compeers that had 
joined with them in threatening the valley of Randolph, 
a few miles behind. 

This route can also be taken from the Glen House 
by a road passing across the Peabody River, along the 
base of Madison, and joining the road from Gorham just 
beyond Randolph Hill. An excellent excursion for one 
who desired to approach the Crawford House from the 
south, through the Notch, would be to spend a day in a 
trip from Gorham to the Waumbeck House, back as 
far as the road here alluded to, and thence to the Glen. 
The best view of the north side of the mountains would 
thus be obtained, and yet the advantage of the approach 
to the Crawford House up through the Notch not be 
lost. 

Parties may feel reasonably sure that they can ob- 
tain excellent wagons and experienced drivers for this 
Cherry Mountain route, at any time, from Mr. Hitch- 
cock of the Alpine House, in Gorham. And so many 
parties are sent in this way to the Notch, that travellers 
staying at the Crawford House can often find, on 



36 ' WHITE MOUJVT^IJ^ GUIDE. 

inquiry, teams about to return to Gorliam, that will 
enable them to view the magnificent scenery of the 
return ride. 

The proprietor of the Alpine House is also prepared 
to furnish carriages and drivers to parties of any size 
for a tour of the mountains, as well as for a visit to 
the Notch. 

And now let us turn to 

The Glei^. 
This charming spot is situated eight miles, as we 
have said, from Gorham. The drive, taken as it usu- 
ally is in the morning or evening, is one of great at- 
traction. The ascent is gradual, with no long hills, 
and the road winds, for the greater part of the way, 
along the easterly bank of the Peabody River, which, 
always within hearing, is frequently within sight. Soon 
after leaving Gorham the burly form of Madison bursts 
upon the view, apparently barring all further progress, 
while the Moriah range towers up on the left. The 
changing mountain forms furnish a continual study. 
Washington and Adams come into view before reach- 
ing the Glen, and the carriage road is visible from the 
point where it emerges from the woods almost to the 
very summit. About two miles and a half from the 
Glen is a bridge over the Peabody Kiver, which one 
must cross if he wishes to see 

The Iivip. 

This name has been given to a peak of the Moriah 



WHITE MOU^TTAIJ^ GUIDE. 37 

Mountain, from the marked resemblance which the sum- 
mit, seen from a point near a farm house, about half a 
mile from the road, on the opposite side of the river, 
bears to a grotesque human countenance. The after- 
noon is the best time for the view. If your party 
command the team, you can make the view a pleasant 
accompaniment to the ride from Gorham to the Glen ; 
or the visit can be made directly from the Glen House. 

The Glen House 
has been recently enlarged, so that it is now one of 
the largest and grandest hotels of the White Moun- 
tain region. In fact, a new hotel, equal in size to the 
one that formerly occupied the spot, has been built and 
attached to the old house. The office and receiving 
hall occupy a spacious {ipartment between the old 
and the new. The parlor is a magnificent room, 100 
by 50 feet, elegantly famished. .The dining room is a 
fine hall, in which all the 600 guests, which the hotel 
will now easily accommodate, may dine at once with- 
out trouble or inconvenience. From the balcony of the 
hotel may be had an uninterrupted view of the highest 
summits in New England, while the parties ascending 
and descending the rugged ledges of Mt. Washington 
may be watched by the aid of a glass-. The whole 
front of the house, facing the mountains and the rush- 
ing Peabody River, contains rooms that are unusually 
attractive, while those on the other side are also fa- 
vored with remarkable and pleasing mountain views. 
This Hotel is now owned by W. F. & C. R. Milliken, 



38 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

who keep the house under the firm name of J. M. 
Thompson & Co. Those who have heretofore been 
guests of the former landlord will have no reason to fear 
that any discredit will be done to the name under their 
management. In spite of its size the House is generally 
filled, and sometimes to overflowing, during the height 
of the season. With them is still associated Mr. S. H. 
Cummings, who is able, by long experience, to antici- 
pate the wants of the tourist. 

The Western Union Telegraph Company has lines 
over Mt. Washington, and connecting with Centre Har- 
bor, Conway, Crawford House, aud Profile House, with 
a station in the hotel. All the principal places in the 
mountains are now connected by telegraph, and are in 
direct communication with the large cities. 

The Glen House stands on a plateau, 830 feet above 
the Gorham valley, and 1,G32 feet above tide water at 
Portland, in the midst of a magnificent mountain bowl. 
Behind it bend the thin high ridges of Mt. Carter and 
its spurs, 3,000 feet in height, and green with unbroken 
forests to their crests. On the south-w^est, one sees 
the steep, bony braces of Mt. Washinn^ton, running off, 
one behind the other, into the Piukham forests, and 
towards Jackson. Directly in front are the outworks 
and huge shoulder of Mt. Washington itself, and be- 
hind this heavy shoulder, on a retreating ridge, the 
pinnacle where the Summit House stands. Associated 
directly with Mt. Washington, and bending around to 
the nortli-w^est and north, are Mt. Clay, rising over the 



WHITE MOUJ^TAI^r GUIDE. 39 

huge " Gulf of Mexico ; " the stout, square-shouldered 
Jefferson; and the symmetrical, sharp, and splendid 
pyramid of Adams, with its peak so pointed that it 
looks unscalable. This mountain is by far the grand- 
est of all in shape and impressiveness. And next to 
this, with lines running eastward, is Mt. Madison, 
which completes the staff of Washington. Thus four 
of the highest summits of the White Hills are, as we 
have said, in full vieAv, directly in front of the hotel in 
the Glen. The height of Mt. Washington is 6,285 
feet; Mt. Clay, 5,400; Mt. Jefferson, 5,700; Mt. 
Adams, 5,800 ; Mt. Madison, 5,361. 

No public house among the mountains is situated 
so near the Mt. Washington range as this. There are 
views of the mountains to be had at a little greater 
distance that will give more pleasure to the artistic 
sense ; but no view of the chief White Mountain range 
can be had from a hotel that is comparable with this 
which the piazza of the Glen House offers. 

The best time to approach it is in the clear afternoon 
of a summer day, when the shadows fall soft and rich 
in the gorges and over the rugged slopes of the chain. 
Then the mountains look higher, and their grandeur is 
tempered with a mystic beauty. There is perpetual 
charm, too, in watching the play of the vapors around 
the cliffs and in the ravines on a misty and showery day 
in August. Now they will wrap a long mountain wall 
in a cold, gray mantle, to the base. Now they will 
break along a ridge, and reveal the harsh sides of a 
chasm, or the ramparts of a ridge, hanging seemingly 



40 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

in the clouds. Soon they will thin away belov,"- for a 
mile, and show the green fpreground softened by a 
jjioist veil, Next they will knot themselves into thick 
ilolls, and then stretch themselves slowly into thin and 
sleazy textures. Once in a while they will lift them- 
selves nearly to the summit of a ridge, and try to 
plunge doAvn again, — really tiring the eye that watches 
them 

Sink by compulsion and laborious flight ; — 

and sometimes they will break entirely around one of 
tlse mountains, Adams perhaps, and show it piercing 
the gray sky, apparently doubled in height by being 
feeen isolated from its brother hills. 
;)iln May and early June the view from the Glen 
House is very charming. For then huge patches of 
snow lie on the upper slopes of the range. But in Oc- 
tober the spectacle is generally more fascinating than 
at any other season of the year. Especially when the 
traveller can see, as we once saw there, the summits 
stained wdth snow, rising over forests dyed in orange, 
broA\Ti, and crimson, — and delicate curtains of mists 
drooping from the sky, and swaying gently along the 
lihe of the crests, — will he be charmed with the scene. 

^' Stage Routes. 

vf^^^S^^ leave the Glen House to connect with all the 
l^ains on the Grand Trunk Railway, at Gorham, and 
also morning and afternoon for North Conway, to con- 
nect with the trains on the Portland and Ogdeusburgh, 
aod the Great Falls and Conway Railroads. Persons 
desiring to go to the Notch connect at Bartlett with 
stages for that point from North Conway. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIBE. 41 

The larger number of persons desiring to go to the 
Notch now go over Mt. Washington, descending by the 
Raih'oad. Baggage wagons accompany the passenger 
wagons, so that there is now no occasion for the stage 
line through Bartlett. 

The chief object of interest now at the Glen House 
as well as the grand highway of the mountain travel, is 

The Ascent op Mount Washington. 

Notwithstanding the completion of the Railroad, the 
ascent of Mt. Washington by the carriage road is still 
popular. The distance from the base of the mountain, 
in front of the Glen House, to the summit, is eight miles. 
The carriage road, a triumph of engineering skill, is now 
completed to the very summit, and furnishes the best road 
in the whole mountain region. It was commenced in 
1855, by a chartered corporation, under the management 
of D. O. Macomber, and was finished as far as the Ledge, 
or four miles from the base, in 1856. In 1861 the 
road was finished to the summit and opened for travel. 
The average grade is tAvelve feet in one hundred, and 
the steepest grade in any part, which, strange to say, is 
about two miles and a half from the base, is sixteen 
feet in one hundred for a short distance. It is a thor- 
oughly built road in every particular. The bridle-path 
formerly went up the mountain side in almost a straight 
line, while the road winds around the ledge and up the 
mountain side, making nearly double the distance. 
But in no part is there any difficulty or danger in the 
ascent. No more discomfort is experienced than m 
the same amount of carriage riding upon any of the 



42 WHITE MOVJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

mountain roads. The road was surveyed and laid out 
by Mr. Charles H. V. Cavis, Civil Engineer, who was 
the active Superintendent of the Carriage Road Com- 
pany till 1857, when the work was suspended on ac- 
count of financial embarrassments. 

The tariff of tolls on the carriage road is as follows : 

For every person on foot, $0.32 

" " " on horseback, .80 

" " " in carriages, .80 

" " sulky with one horse, .64 

" " carriage with 4 wheels for 2 persons, .64 

" " " wdth 2 horses and 4 wheels, .96 

" " " with 4 horses, 1.28 

For every carriage of pleasure or otherwise, the like 

sums, according to the number of wheels and horses 

drawing the same. 

The fare for a seat in one of the regular mountain 
carriages, which leave morning and afternoon, is $5, 
which includes the tolls on the carriage road. 

For the first four miles of the way the road winda 
among the trees of the forest, which cover the sides of 
all the mountains, permitting only occasional glimpses 
of the mountain world around. At what is called 
" The Ledge," the road emerges from the forest, and 
the glories of the ascent here begin. From this point 
the road winds along the very verge of the deep ravine 
between Washington, and Clay, and Jefferson, the 
upper end of which is called the Great Gulf. Leaving 
this, it passes to the easterly side of the mountain, 
overlooking the valley of the Peabody and Ellis Rivers, 



WHITE MOUJVT^IJ^ GUIDE. 43 

and furnishing a most charming view of the far-famed 
8aco valley, with a distant sight of the Great Gulf. 
One here feels a decided sensation of being in the 
upper air. The wind sweeps almost unobstructed 
across the mountain, and below or above one may see 
carriages creeping along the path. The charm of the 
dridle-path from the White Mountain Notch to Mt. 
Washington lies in the passage over the tops of four 
lower summits of the ridge, each one a little higher 
than the last, and in the view thus given of ravines 
that sweep off each way from the horse path to the 
base of the range. From the Glen the ascent is made 
directly up Mt. Washington itself all the way. Down 
the great ravine already spoken of a most surprising 
view is offered of Jefferson, Adams, and Madison. 
They sweep up from the enormous gulfs at the right 
hand of the path, and are visible from base to crown. 
There is no view, perhaps, so ^exciting as this, on 
the path we have just spoken of from the Crawford 
Notch. Many w^ill think that this spectacle, which 
grows grander and grander as they rise, is more inspir- 
ing than the prospect from the peak above. One 
learns, in looking at those great forms, the decided dif- 
ference there is in genus between a mountain and a 
hill. The eye is fascinated by the colors of these rug- 
ged monarchs — the varied verdure of their lower for- 
ests, their tawny shoulders, the purple and gray of their 
bare ledges, the dim green of their peaks. One will 
notice, also, the charming lines which the torrents have 
torn upon their surfaces ; for when we look across a 



44 WHITE M0UJ\rTJ3IJ\r QUIDE. 

gulf, or from a little distance below, upon a steep 
mountain, we find that it is the wrath of the freshets 
that gives them their finest lines of expression and 
character. And if the day is blessed with clouds that 
drift over the mountains, the eye will find unspeakable 
pleasure in watching the shadows that will droop 
swiftly from cone to base, and in following the inces- 
sant flushes and frolics of light and shade that robe 
them with ever-changing charm. 

But to appreciate the beauty and majesty of these 
mountains that are in view from the Glen House and 
Gorham path, one should see them late on a bright 
summer afternoon, either in ascending or descending 
Mt. Washington. Then the sun is behind them, sink- 
ing in the west. Then the richest contrasts of color, 
of light, and of shadow are revealed. The summit 
and shoulders of Mt. Jefferson glow with rich orange 
hues. The slanting light streams between the peaks 
and burnishes the sides of their ragged pyramids. The 
" Gulf of Mexico " gapes with more terror as the 
shadows from its walls, that measure more than a 
thousand feet, fall far into its base. And as the sun 
falls nearer and nearer the horizon, the sharp shadows 
of Mt. Adams and of the neighboring peaks stream 
down upon the Glen House valley, and march up the 
<5pposite slopes of Carter, to dislodge its yellow light 
*hat melts into purple, and to cover them with dusk. 
The noon time is the poorest of all seasons to be on 
the ridge of Mt. Washington ; for then there are no 
shadows. And it is a pity that the great majority of 



WHITE MOUJVT^IJSr GUIDE. 4f 

those who ascend the range see the scenery during the 
most unpoetic hours, near midday. 

From the summit of " The Ledge," where the 
view of the three great mountains we have been speak- 
ing of is first gained, the path rises over a series of 
receding plateaus. Each seems to be the summit, as 
one looks from below. It is on account of this struc- 
ture of the cone of Mt. Washington, that it fails to 
show its real height until one gets far enough off from 
it in the valleys to escape the effect of foreshortening. 

During the last part of the ascent one Avill see the 
pile of stones that -marks the spot where Miss Bourne, 
of Kennebunk, Me., died, near midnight, in Septem- 
ber, 1855, and where her uncle and cousin kept sad 
watch till dawn. They started in the afternoon, with- 
out a guide, to walk to the summit. Night and fog 
overtook them, and the young lady perished in the 
chill and darkness among the rocks, but a few rods 
from the house they were in search of. Quite near, 
also, is the shelving rock, beneath which the remains 
of an elderly gentleman from Wilmington, Del., were 
found in July, 1857. He had attempted to ascend the 
mountain alone, one afternoon in August of the year 
before, and must have been overtaken by storm, and 
cold, and darkness, near the summit. His watch, and 
some bank bills in his vest pocket, were found unin- 
jured ; though most of the body, and even part of the 
skeleton, were gone. A little further below, and at the 
left of the ascending path, the ledge is visible where 
Dr. Benjamin Ball, of Boston, passed two nights in the 



46 WHITE MOUJVTAIJT OUIDE. 

snow and sleet of an October storm, alone, without 
food or covering. He was rescued when nature Avas 
about sinking. His feet were frozen, and he could not 
speak. How his life was preserved in such exposure 
is a marvel. It is equally remarkable that, though his 
feet were severely frozen, they were saved. 

Since the completion of the carriage road to the 
summit, however, there seems to be no possibility of 
any such accident. In the fall of 1862, soon after the 
first snow, Mr. Thorn, the clerk at the Summit House, 
made the ascent in a sleigh. A winter visit to the top 
of Mt. Washington would hardly come within the pur- 
poses or desires of the pleasure tourist. Yet at present 
it can be safely and even agreeably made in the early 
part of the season. A sleighing party to the Summit 
is by no means without its pleasures, to those adven- 
turous enough to engage in it. Before the completion 
of the carriage road such an excursion was attended 
with great difficulty and danger. The first winter visit 
to the Summit was made December 7, 1858, by a sheriff, 
who desired to serve a writ in one of the suits that have 
arisen out of the disputed title to the most elevated land 
in New England. The party found the houses covered 
with snow ; and succeeded in forcing an entrance with 
great difficulty. " The walls and all the furniture were 
draped with some four inches of frost, and the air 
was biting in the extreme. It was like a tomb, and 
a lamp was necessary in this snow cavern to enable 
the party to distinguish the surrounding objects. As 
delay was dangerous in the extreme, and having per- 



WHITE MOUJVTJlIJSr GUIDE. 47 

fccted their legal duty, the two prepared to return. 
Upon emerging from the houses they beheld to the 
south-west a cloud, rapidly increasing in volume, and 
rolling on towards them. When first seen it was small 
in magnitude, but it increased in size with alarming 
velocity, soon spreading over the entire south. They 
knew it was a frost cloud, and that to be caught in its 
folds would probably be fatal, and they hastened to 
avoid it. They had just entered the woods, at the base 
of the ledge, when it came upon them. So icy and 
penetrating was its breath, that to have encountered its 
blinding, freezing power on the unprotected height, 
would have been to have perished with it as a pall to 
cover them." 

Since the completion of the Railroad, on the opposite 
side of the Mountain, the Summit has been occupied as 
a station of the Meteorological Department of the United 
States Army, and observers have passed the entire 
winter there. They have experienced no unusual dif- 
ficulty in making weekly visits to the country below. 
The wind has sometimes assailed them with a velocity of 
100 miles per hour. The lowest point indicated by the 
thermometer, during the first year of observation, was 
— 59^^ Farenheit. This extreme cold occurred at the 
same time with a high wind, which rendered it almost 
insupportable even indoors. The account of the first 
winter has been published and forms an interesting vol- 
ume. 

Now let us ascend the last part of the steep cone, and 
stand upon the Summit. The time used in making the 
journey from the base in the Glen to the peak is gen- 



48 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

erally about three hours. It is often done in two hours 
and a half, and has been accomplished in less than two 
hours. What a stupendous view ! A horizon of nearly 
six hundred miles bounds the prospect ! The mountain 
peaks stand on every side as sentinels over the furrowed 
valleys of New England ! 

If the day is clear, one can see Monadnock loom, as 
a pale blue film, a hundred miles off on the south-west. 
Far in the east Katahdin is driven like a wedge into 
the sky. Westward the eye roams almost to the Cat- 
skills ; northward into Canada, far beyond the sources 
of the Connecticut ; southward, to the mouth of the 
Saco. In a clear morning or evening, if there is a 
silvery gleam on the south-eastern horizon, it tells that 
the sun is shining on the sea off Portland. 

Nearer to us on the west towers the gloomy ridge 
of Franconia, subsiding towards the Merrimack. That 
flash now and then through the opaline southern air is 
from Winnipesaukee, the most exquisite jewel in the 
necklace of New England. On the near north the 
twin-domed Stratford mountains tower. Their barren 
pallor, seen through the uncertain air, counterfeits 
snow. The cloven Pinkham Pass lies directly beneath 
us, bending around to lovely North Conway. Over 
this last village we observe the drooping shoulders of 
Kearsarge, Avhose northern sides flow from the sum- 
mit as softly as full folds of drapery fall from a ring. 
Mt. Crawford attracts" attention by his singular knob- 
like crest ; and near him, all the winding Bartlett hills 
stand up, guarding the shy beauty of the intervales. 
The Ions and solid " Pleasant Mountain " draws the 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJV GUIDE. 49 

eye, set so squarely near the still silver of Lovewell's 
Pond. And farther south the dim, level, leopard- 
spotted land stretches wide to the horizon haze. 

Of course it is unwise to attempt to describe such a 
view. It is the map of New England printed before 
us in glowing poetry. Those who look upon the sub- 
lime diorama for the first time, under favorable circum- 
stances, are so oppressed by the novelty and grandeur, 
that they do not appreciate what they have seen till 
some days afterwards. Then it rises in memory, and 
becomes a perpetual treasure for " the mind's eye." 
No one should fail to make the ascent, if health is 
good. There is no danger worth calculating, and the 
fatigue that may be incurred is nothing to the spectacle 
that is offered. Especially are the temptations to 
ascend greater now to ladies and partial invalids, since 
such admirable accommodation is found in the little 
hotel on the Summit. 

There have been, and are still, Ave believe, serious 
disputes about the title to the acre or two of chippy 
rock that make the crown of Mt. Washington. There 
have even been rival hotels on its apex, the " Tip Top 
House," and the " Summit House."* Both the houses 
have been united now under one management. They 
are kept by Mr. J. R. Hitchcock, landlord of the Al- 
pine House, and are under the immediate charge of 
Mr. Austin Tyler, who is acquainted with the capa- 
bilities of the place ; and every thing that can be done 
on such a height — 6,300 feet above the sea — for the 
comfort of guests, will be faithfully attended to by him. 
* See Addenda. 
4 



bO WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

These houses were built when the ascent was much 
more difficult than it now is. They were not conse- 
quently designed to accommodate so great a throng of 
guests as frequently assemble for dinner. Too much 
must not therefore be expected. When the new Hotel, 
which the Railroad Company is erecting, is finished, 
there will be no good reason for asking for any lower- 
ing of the standard of a good hotel. The small kitchen 
of the present house barely enables the proprietor to fur- 
nish a plentiful supply to the table and limits the variety. 

Those who ascended Mt. Washington before there was 
any shelter on the peak from gale or shower, or driv- 
ing scud, or snow-squall, that often awaited or overtook 
them, will know how those are favored now who find 
good protection, fire, and a hot dinner ready on the top. 
Sheets of paper and envelopes, each with an engraving 
of the Mountain House and Summit, are on sale there. 
Letters written there to friends are mailed to all parts 
of the country by the proprietors of the hotel. 

As has already been suggested, the larger number of 
people travelling from one side to the other, now pass 
over the Summit. The baggage is all checked at the 
railroad station and no difficulty is experienced in 
making the change. This saves a day's delay and a 
long stage ride. A great many, too, remain over 
night on the Summit. Unless the weather has long 
been stormy, or very damp, one can sleep in comfort 
and safety in the Summit House. A night there, in 
which one can see a clear sunset, a moonrise, and a 



WHITE MOUJ\rT^IJ\r GUIDE. 51 

sunrise, Is a privilege that is well worth the attempt to 
gain. One appreciates the height of Mt. Washington 
more by looking up in the night to the mighty dome of 
stars, than by looking off and below in the day. Or, 
if the night is wild and stormy, the feeling one gains 
there of the tremendous forces amid which we are 
placed on this globe, will more than atone for any 
uneasiness or discomfort. Arrangements for the ac- 
commodation of guests at the Summit will soon be 
as complete as at any of the hotels below. What little 
discomfort there may be, is more than neutralized by 
the magnificence of the views and the novelty of the 
experience. We advise all who can, to remain over 
night on Mt. Washington. 

If the night be clear, the gi'atification which one 
receives is unequalled by any experience of mountain 
travelling. The sunset is magnificent beyond descrip- 
tion. The light is gradually softened during the after- 
noon, when the most exquisite views are obtained of 
all the surrounding country. As the sun slowly sinks 
in the west, the shadows of the mountains enlarge in 
proportions, and extend far and wide. The great py- 
ramidal shadow of the Summit travels along the eastern 
landscape, gradually darkening green fields, pleasant 
lakes, winding rivers, and the snug hamlets that line 
their shores, till, reaching the horizon, the apex actually 
seems to lift itself into the haze. The line of ocean is 
now distinctly visible. The western mountains are 
glowing with golden light. The sun goes down in a 
blaze of glory. Then as the shadows deepen, the mists 



52 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

begin to collect on the surface of every lake, and pond, 
and brook, till it seems as though each little sheet of 
water was blanketed and tucked in beneath its own 
coverlet of cloud, to spend the night in undisturbed 
repose. Soon the Great Gulf, the deep ravines on 
either side, are filled with vapor, which, accumulating 
every moment, come reaching up the slopes of the 
mountains, till all the hollows are full clear to the 
brim. Then the surrounding summits peer out, lifting 
their heads above the dense masses. It seems as 
though one could Avalk across to Clay, Jefferson, 
Adams, and Madison upon this broad platform of 
mist. Should this phenomenon occur before sunset, as 
sometimes it does, the effect is indescribably beautiful 
and grand, as though bridges of burnished gold had 
been throA\Ti across the deep chasms from mountain 
top to mountain top. Through the long twilight these 
mao-ical and shifting scenes continue, till the hour of 
retirino- comes, and the comfortable beds of the hotel 
invite repose. At early dawn the traveller is aroused 
to witness the reverse of the picture which he saw 
upon the previous evening. The sun comes up from 
the sea, the great pyramid of shadow beginning in the 
west gradually contracts, the little cloud blankets rise 
from the lakes and float away into the upper air, and 
the sun, " as a bridegroom coming out of his chamber," 
clothed in light, " rejoiceth as a strong man to run a 
race." After such an experience, one can go down 
into the plain below, better and wiser for his visit 
among the clouds. 



WHITE MOUJ^T^IM GUIDE. 53 

But it is time to turn from the hospitality of the 
Summit House, and descend, through the exciting 
views that lie around Mt. Washington, to the Glen 
House once more. We have not spoken of other 
attractions that belong to its neighborhood. One of 
these is a ride to " The Imp," which we have already- 
described. On the Avay there one should not fail to 
visit the 

Gaunet Pools. 

This series of basins in the Peabody River is situated 
near the Gorham road, at the foot of a gentle rise in 
the main road, about a mile from the hotel. Follow- 
ing the path by the bridge to the bank of the Pea- 
body River, you will find the rocks of the river bed for 
some little distance curiously and delicately hollowed 
out and polished by the action of the Avater. In this, 
as in many other similar places in the mountain region, 
one is naturally curious to know how long these rocks 
have been subjected to such influence. A year's action 
makes no visible impression upon the solid granite, and 
yet, in many places, the rocks are Avorn aAvay for fifteen 
or twenty feet. Garnet Pools is a tempting place for 
one interested in the studies of rock sculpture. 

The most pleasurable excursions, however, are to be 
made on the road to North CouAvay and the Notch. 
We Avould first call attention to 

Thompson's Falls. 
This picturesque series of falls is to be found on a 



54 WHITE MOUJ^T^IJV OUIDE, 

tributary of the Peabody, about two miles from the 
hotel, on the road to North Conway. A guide-board 
informs you of the point at Avhich you turn to the left 
and follow a path about a quarter of a mile into the 
Avoods. The brook is a tributary to the Peabody, and 
is usually well filled with water. These falls cannot 
compare in volume to the falls on the Ellis River, nor 
rival in the height of precipitous leap the cascade in the 
Notch. But for a series of delightful cascades and 
water-slides, and as furnishing a ramble of an hour or 
two among delicious bits of wild and romantic views, 
they may be truly called unequalled. You may follow 
up the brook for half a mile, Avithout reaching the last 
of the series. If there Avere no other attractions, one 
would ahvays be amply compensated for the toil of the 
ascent by the view that is gained of Mt. Washington 
and Tuckerman's Ravine. From no. other point so 
easily accessible is so magnificent a picture of this 
mountain scenery presented. 

The Emerald Pool 
is so well worth visiting that a better path should be 
cut to it from the road. It is situated at a Aery short 
distance from the road, just before reaching the Thomp- 
son Falls. 

The water of the river, after tossing and tumbling 
among the rocks, here flows into this quiet basin, and 
after reposing long enough to mirror the surrounding 
scenery, once more emerges, to recommence its toilsome 
journey. This pool is especially attractive for the quiet 



WHITE MOUJ\rTjlIJ^ GUIDE. 55 

aud seclusion produced by the repose of the water, and 
B grace and coolness of 
Let us attend next to 



the grace and coolness of the overhanging foliage 



The Glen Ellis Fall. 

This cataract is one of the interesting features of 
the wild scenery in the neighborhood of the Glen House. 
Carriages run regularly from the hotel to carry visitors. 

The fall is about four miles from the Glen House, 
near the road to North Conway and the Notch. It is 
very easy of access from the point where you leave the 
wagon, though it requires nearly half an hour, with 
ladies, to reach it. Five minutes' walk through the for- 
est takes one within hearing of the rich roar that an- 
nounces the nearness of the cataract. A critical ear 
could construct the form and grandeur of the fall from 
its voice. Its bass quality, not broad and massive, but 
youthful, vigorous, and intense,. and the slight splashi- 
ness that borders and thins its baritone, foretell that we 
are to come upon a narrow cataract, leaping from a 
great height, Avith concentrated stream, into a shallow 
basin. But the sound does not prepare a stranger for 
the startling view upon which the forest path suddenly 
opens. From the carriage road, the foot track is nearly 
level, leading to a tree that overhangs a precipice of 
more than a hundred feet. We lean against this tree 
for support, not without misgivings as to its roots, and 
look down upon a huge wall of rock, over which the 
Ellis River, stranding the streams of its various brooks 
into a huge liquid cable, whose constant friction has 



56 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ\r GUIDE. 



worn a deep groove in the granite, slides at a very sharp 
angle for some twenty feet, and then leaps, as from the 
nose of a gigantic pitcher, sixty feet more. The public 
(as well as the cascade) are indebted to Mr. Shepley, 
of Portland, for changing its name from " Pitcher 
Fall," which Avas first given to it, to the more appro- 
priate title of 




GLEN ELLIS FALL. 



WHITE MOUJVTJlIJSr GUIDE. 57 

This view, as well as that of Crystal Cascade, 
is engraved from a photograph taken by Bierstadt 
Bros. 

To discover the most romantic and charming combi- 
nations in mountain scenery, one must explore the larger 
streams on their way to the open valleys. The Naiads 
know how to turn their course through the most pic- 
turesque passes, under the richest arches of forest 
boughs, and down the most bewitching dells. This is 
one of the glorious perquisites of the devoted trout- 
fisher, that his profession (for it is really one of the 
fine arts), leads him along the by-ways of beauty that 
are hidden from the eyes of ease-loving travellers, and 
up through winding cascade-aisles to many an adytum 
of forest wildness or mountain grandeur. Probably 
some trout-fisher was the discoverer of Glen Ellis Fall, 
which has been known only a few years. The first 
sight of it must have given a most impressive joy to 
the explorer if he were a man of taste. 

The spot where it pours is more wild, and combines 
more of the elements of loneliness, untamableness, 
lawless beauty, and strong contrasts of features, than 
any other spot in the White Mountain region. The 
overhanging tree, against which the visitor leans to 
look down at the water-fall, giving him a footing that 
undermines his delight with a sense of insecurity and 
fear ; the steep mountain wall opposite, more than 
three thousand feet high, and thick set to the top with 
trees ; the bard granite rampart over which the com- 
pact white stream slips, and then spouts into the basin 



68 WHITE MOVJVTJilJ^ OUIDE. 

below, and the smoothly carved groove, telliug of the 
ages that have been exhausted in that merry rasping 
of the rock by the water-drops ; the loveliness of the 
basin itself, when one goes down to it, and contrasts its 
green, placid surface with the leaping crystal column 
that pours into it from eighty feet above, — these, and 
the cheerful tripping of the stream on its way again in 
search of new adventures, after its mad plunge, com- 
bine to make a mountain retreat, whose wildness and 
music Scott would have delighted to enshrine in his 
vigorous verse, and which no visitor of Gorham and 
the Glen House should leave unvisited. Trenton has 
not any one scene, or any one cascade, so striking. It 
has always seemed to me, on a smaller scale, more like 
the scenery at the Natural Bridge in Virginia, than 
any other district of the White Mountains. 

About an hour is required to reach Glen Ellis Fall 
from the Glen House. Visitors need another hour at 
the spot. Generally the visitor is too hurried. Twice 
the time that can be given is generally found to be 
needed. 

We must next visit another waterfall, which is one 
of the most delightful resources of a visit at the Glen 
House. The 

Crystal Cascade 
is gained from an entrance in the woods about a mile 
from the Glen EUis Fall, on the way back to the Glen 
House, from which it is only three miles distant. It 
pours down from heights opposite to those which feed 



WHITE M0UJ\'Tj1IJV GUIDE. 59 

the Ellis river. Its descent is about eighty feet. Part 
of its water comes from the dome of Mt. AYashington, 
through Tuckerman's Ravine. It takes twenty or 
thirty minutes of forest walking and climbing to reach 
the Crystal Cascade. The true point to see it is not 
the immediate foot of the fall, although most persons 
go there, but a high bank opposite, that overhangs the 
aged granite, and has plenty of the softest seats cush- 
ioned with moss a foot or more in depth. If it is wil- 
derness, and the spirit of strong, bounding, unruly life 
that fascinates in the spot we have just left, here it is 
delicate and exquisite beauty. 

At Glen Ellis the whole stream pitches in one con- 
centrated tide ; here, every pint of water is spread 
with charming economy to the utmost service. Some 
seventy feet above, we can see the brook pouring in a 
single stream around the bend. Then the rock broad- 
ens into a rough stairway, wdth easy slope, which 
grows wider and wider to the bottom, and down these 
steps the spreading water sheds its white, thin, dancing 
and broken sheet, showing, now and then, through its 
gauzy texture, the deep green mosses clinging to the 
rocks which soften its own fall, and make its cool music 
more gentle and luscious to the ear. 

A friend of ours once compared it, quite happily, to 
an inverted liquid plume — the rill above, where the 
water is one stream, being the stem, and the widen- 
ing, fleecy flow its nodding, graceful, feathery spray. 
As to the form of the cascade, nothing can be finer 
than the simile. But the delicate texture and color of 



60 WHITE MOUJSTTATJV GUIDE, 

the descending rill suggest laces, and frills, and foam- 
embroidery. It is as though fairy milliners had set 
their wits to work to weave a ruffled bosom for the 
rocky breast of Mt. Washington, out of the snow-flax 
that falls in winter around his head. 




CllYbiAL CASCADE. 
There is a youthful and masculine energy in the 
Glen Ellis Fall. The Crystal Cascade shows rather a 



WHITE MOUJVTJlIJ^ OUIDE. Gl 

feminine, maidenly delicacy and grace. There are 
always two parties among those who visit these falls, 
some contending for the superiority of the first, others 
for the greater charm of the last. If the reader visits 
both, no doubt he will adopt onr opinion, that neither 
can be spared, and that they are so different as to re- 
pel comparison. A long forenoon or afternoon should 
be taken to make the excursion to both spots. 
We come now to speak of 

Tuckerman's Ravine, 
whose walls are visible from the Glen House. This 
ravine is a tremendous gulf, in the southerly side of 
Mt. Washington. It was named in honor of Edward 
Tuckerman, Esq., who has been a faithful explorer of 
the White Mountains. He often visited the ravine, 
before the tide of travel turned to the eastern side of 
the mountains, to complete his knowledge of the 
lichens and flora of the region. 

The hard, bare, thin, and curling edge of the south- 
ivestern wall of this ravine, as seen from the Glen 
House, is one of the most strijiing mountain lines visible 
from that fascinating spot. The gulf may be reached 
by climbing directly up the stream of the Crystal Cas- 
cade just spoken of. That stream flows through the 
centre of the sloping base of the ravine. 

But the easier way is to follow the carriage road, 
for about two miles, up Mt. Washington ; strike off to 
the left into a forest-path, cut by direction of Mr. 
Thompson, of the Glen House, and cross two and a 



62 WHITE MOUXTAIJ^ GUIDE. 

half miles of forest, that lie between the carriage road 
and " Hermit Lake." The more common way now, 
however, is to descend into the ravine from or near 
the summit. The Thompson path is not kept so free 
from obstructions, since the greater number of travel- 
lers prefer to descend into the ravine from the Summit. 

The little sheet of Avater, called Hermit Lake, so 
snugly embowered in the wilderness, would attract 
more attention, were it not for the frowning wall of 
the ravine that looms over it, and draws the eye up- 
wards. It lies under the south-east ridge. Emerging 
from the woods here, we see that the ravine is of horse- 
shoe shape — the opposite outer cliff more than a thou- 
sand feet in height, the bottom sloping upwards towards 
the backward crescent wall, and the rim quite level. 
Kxplorers must climb along the centre of the gulf, by 
the bed of a stream, pausing every minute to gaze at 
the grim ramparts on either hand, and to invent, pos- 
sibly, some new exclamation of amazement and awe. 
Facing the party, as they make their way slowly up- 
ward, will be the grand curve of the sheer precipice 
that lies some way off, and up under the summit of Mt. 
Washington. It is symmetrical, seemingly, as the 
wall of the Coliseum. 

The sight of that stupendous amphitheatre of stone, 
when one gets near enough to appreciate it, would of 
itself repay and overpay the labor of the climb. It is 
fitly called the " Mountain Coliseum." No other word 
expresses it, and that comes spontaneously to the lips. 
The eye needs some hours of gazing and comparative 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJf GUIDE. 63 

measurement to fit itself for an appreciation of its scale 
and sublimity. 

One can hardly believe, while standing there, that 
the sheer concave sweep of the back wall of the ravine 
was the work of an earthquake throe. It seems as 
though Titanic geometry and trowels must have come 
in to perfect a primitive volcanic sketch. One might 
easily fancy it the Stonehenge of a pre- Adamite race, 
— the unroofed ruins of a temple, reared by ancient 
Anaks long before the birth of man, for which the 
dome of Mt. Washington was piled as the western 
tower. 

There have been land slides and rock avalanches as 
terrible in that ravine as at Dixville Notch. The teeth 
of the frosts have been as pitiless, the desolation of the 
cliffs is as complete, but the spirit of the place is not 
so gloomy as at Dixville. It is sublime rather than 
awful or dispiriting. At Dixville, all is decay, wreck, 
the hopeless submission of matter in the coil of its hun- 
gry foes. In Tuckerman's Ravine there is a gi'and 
battle of granite against storm and frost, — a Roman 
resistance, as though it could hold out for ages yet, be- 
fore the siege of winter and all the batteries of the air. 

Unless the season is very dry, the back wall of this 
Mountain Coliseum will glitter with innumerable veins 
of water, which are called " The Thousand Streams." 
When one has reached the base of this curving preci- 
pice, it is not a very difficult task to climb to the sum- 
mit of Mt. Washington. Parties have sometimes done 
so, passed the night there, and returned to the Glen 



64 WHITE j\ioujvtj3jjv guide. 

House the next day. Many also have visited the ravine 
by descending into it, with a guide, from the top of 
Mt. Washington. The distance from the summit of 
the mountain to the bottom of the gulf is about a mile. 
A visit to Tuckerman's Ravine, in August, will be 
the more interesting if " The Snow Arch " is formed 
there. Nearly every year this beautiful spectacle is to 
be seen. The snow is blown over from the summit 
of Mt. \Yashington by the north-west winds, in winter, 
and is packed in drifts of a hundred feet deep, under 
the walls of " The Coliseum." The streams of early 
spring and summer channel the snow bank, and it 
gradually melts from the roof within, till a vast snow 
cave is formed, through which a person may walk. In 
August, 1855, the snow field measured about 300 feet 
long, 70 in breadth, and 15 in depth. The roof of the 
part that was channelled was some five feet thick, and 
very solid. A hatchet Avas necessary to cut it. The 
top of the span was about ten feet high inside. The 
Avhole roof was wrought into beautiful scallops and 
chasings by the melting and dropping of the snow 
within. The bank does not disappear till the last of 
August. The dog-day fogs penetrate and dissolve it. 
Thus we narrowly escape having a glacier formed near 
the top of Mt. Washington. 

Glen House to the Crawford House. 
Having now passed a few days, or, still better, a 
few weeks amidst the wondrous scenery around the 
Glen House, we leave, with reluctance, this pleasant 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 65 

hotel, and its hospitable hosts, and continue our journey 
to the Crawford House, at the Great Notch. 

Although the greater part of the travel through the 
mountain region now goes over Mt. Washington, it must 
not be forgotten that there is a very delightful route 
around the southern side of the range, and through the 
White Mountain Notch. This was once the great 
thoroughfare, not only for pleasure travel but for per- 
sons having business in Coos County. 

No stage now leaves the Glen House for the Craw- 
ford House direct. The stages, which are run twice a 
day to connect with the trains at North Conway, also 
take passengers for the Crawford House, and the line 
that runs between North Conway and the Crawford 
House, stops at Bartlett to make the exchanges. The 
distance between the two places is 35 miles. The dis- 
tance from the Glen House to North Conway is 21 
miles. 

This route is first in a southerly direction through 
the Pinkham Notch, then westerly along the South- 
eastern flank of the mountains, and finally North 
through the Great Notch. This is the true way in 
which the Crawford House should be approached, em- 
bracing as it does the sublime impression received in 
gradually climbing up through this noble mountain pass. 

On leaving the Glen House the road lies directly 
down the little descent towards the south. On the 
right, the carriage road to Mt. Washington turns off, 
and, crossing the rustic bridge over the Peabody 
River, is soon lost among the trees. The forests, — 
5 



66 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJf GUIDE. 

with the long festoons of gray moss hanging from the 
trees, relieved by the soft green moss at their feet, and 
variegated by the mountain boxberry, the violet-striped 
orcalis, the linnsea borealis, and the orebis, — now close 
in on each side ; the open space of Bellows' clearing, 
which we left, is no longer visible, and we can catch 
only occasional glimpses through the foliage of the 
overhanging cliffs of Carter Mountain on the left, and 
of the lofty hills beyond the river on the right. We 
are fairly within the portals of Pinkham Notch, and 
the silence and solitude are relieved only by the tin- 
kling, and bubbling, and rushing of the Peabody River, 
as the road follows closely its rocky bed. Here and 
there are quiet pools much frequented in the warm 
season by the lover of trouting. 

About two or three miles from the Glen House the 
road crosses the river twice in quick succession, and 
reaches the highest point of the Notch. Here the Pea- 
body Kiver and the Ellis issue in' nearly parallel courses 
from the forest on the right, so near to each other that 
a slight amount of labor would turn either stream into 
the other. Indeed, a part of the water that descends at 
the Crystal Cascade seeks the ocean by the Peabody 
River, and a part flows into the Saco by the Ellis. As 
soon as they have passed under the road, the Peabody 
turns abruptly down the ravine to the north to unite 
with the Androscoggin, while the Ellis takes an oppo- 
site course down the Notch towards the Saco. 

Between the two strcaiiis, on the right, is the entrance 
to the Crystal Cascade, already spoken of, distant from 
the road onlv about a third of a mile. 



WHITE MOUJVT^rJV OUIDE. 67 

After leaving the entrance to this cascade we cross 
the Ellis River, and soon pass the Mineral Spring 
House, an unfinished and uninhabited cottage in the 
edge of the forest on the right. This house, the only 
shelter for seven miles, was located here on account of 
the supposed medicinal character of the spring near by ; 
but the project has been abandoned, and the building 
seems going to ruin. 

Proceeding a little farther, we reach the entrance to 
the Glen Ellis Falls on the left. This cascade is 
nearer the road than the other, and is approached by 
an easy path of plank. 

The Foot of Pinkham Notch. 

Passing do^\Ti the Notch for two or three miles, the 
country opens again, and cleared fields on the intervals 
of the Ellis River take the place of unsubdued forests. 
Near this point a glance towards the north-west is re- 
warded by a fine view of a monster bowlder, apparently 
rolling down a south-eastern spur of Mt. Washington. 
The first house is soon reached, and we seek to catch a 
sight of the inhabitants, whose nearest neighbors on 
the north are seven miles away. The house is quite 
large, and is considerably visited by artists and others, 
Avho delight in the wildness of the surrounding scenery, 
and the substantial mountain fare. 

To this vicinity Capt. Joseph Pinkham, and four 
other hardy pioneers, removed in April, 1790, from 
Madbury, in the lower part of the State. The Pink- 
ham family came up over the snow, which lay five feet 



68 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJV GUIDE. 

deep, and brought all their household goods from Coqs 
way on a hand-sled. They found their log cabin, 
which had been erected during the previous autumn, 
almost buried in the snow. One of the sons of the 
family, Mr. Daniel Pinkham, constructed the Notch 
road, and gave to it his name. 

Jackson. 
A few miles more, through a widening valley, brings 
us to a sudden turn, which discloses the white spire of 
the church in " Jackson City." We greet this token 
of returning civilization with something of the enthu- 
siasm Avhich a sailor feels on reaching land after a long 
voyage. It belongs to a Free Will Baptist society, 
founded in this quiet valley as early as 1803. You 
should not omit, near this point, to look back at the 
dark gorges, which open iniles away towards Mt. 
Washington. A little distance on is a quiet but pleas- 
ant hotel, called the Jackson Falls Hotel, kept by J. 
B. Tkickey. This hotel is within three minutes' walk 
of the Jackson Falls. There is also another hotel here 
called the Thom Mountain House. Passengers on the 
return route from the Crawford House to the Glen House 
dine here. Here may almost always be seen a few artists, 
and other guests, attracted by the delightful scenery and 
the rural comfort of the hotel. In this vicinity is some of 
the best trout fishing to be found among the mountains, 
and those who are fond of the piscatorial art cannot 
do better than make these hotels their home for a 



WHITE J\I0UJ^TA1J^ GUIDE. 69 

short time. Just at the north-west of the house is a 
romantic cascade on the Wikl Cat Brook, a tributary 
of the Ellis River. AVliile the horses are changing you 
will have time enough to visit these falls, and Avill be 
amply compensated for the trouble, if there be the usual 
quantity of water leaping from rock to rock. 

From the portico of the hotel there is gained a fine 
view of the surrounding mountains. Facing the south 
you see Iron Mountain, rising to the height of 2,900 
feet on the right, and the bald peak of Tin Mountain 
on the left. Soon after leaving the hotel the two noble 
peaks of Doublehead come into view in the north-east. 
The nearer peak is 3,000 feet high, and the farther a 
hundred feet higher. Jackson has vast mineral re- 
sources, possessing, besides many less important metals, 
iron, copper, and tin. The last was discovered here 
before it had been found in any other part of the United 
States. This town was first named New Madbury, 
then Adams, in honor of the great statesman, and 
finally received its present name when Adams and 
Jackson were competitors for the presidency, — all its 
voters but one being in favor of the latter. 

Between this place and Goodrich Falls, the large 
and heavily wooded hills lie wide from the road, and 
bend around the pastures like the walls of huge coli- 
seums. Here and there a glimpse is caught of the hard 
summits of the Washington range, which have been 
hidden for several miles by the nearer ridges, when 
suddenly a view of them opens by a sharp turn in the 
road, which, for grandeur, surpasses any aspect they 



70 WHITE Mouj\rTJiJj\r guide. 

present from other points. Artists prefer this point to 
any others that are accessible for studies of the mas- 
siveness and sublimity of the imperial ridge. 

On leaving Jackson, one should not fail to be on the 
alert for a view of 

Goodrich Falls. 
A mile below Jackson, just before crossing the new 
trestle bridge over the Ellis River, you can obtain a 
fine view of Goodrich Falls. Leaving the road a little 
above the bridge, and proceeding a few rods to the 
right, you come to an old bridge in front of the cata- 
ract, from which a good view can be obtained. This 
is the largest perpendicular fall to be seen among the 
mountains, and after heavy rains appears quite grand. 
At any time the view down the river between the steep 
wooded banks is exceedingly picturesque. A short 
scramble on the opposite side of the river will be 
amply rewarded by the nearer view of the falls which 
is thereby gained. The drivers on all the mountain 
routes are very kind and accommodating, and will 
readily allow time for the ramble. Indeed, we may 
here say that generally — for stage drivers are human, 
and will not always wait — the tourist will find them 
feady to stay as long as he may desire to obtain views, 
of the fine scenery in any part of the route. In this 
vicinity the traveller first notices that pleasant element 
of mountain scenery, the little girls standing by the 
road-side with tiny birch baskets filled with berries for 
sale. Buy some raspberries, or some blueberries, and 



WHITE MOUJ^TTAIJ^ GUIDE. 71 

you will make many a little heart glad, as well as 
secure the neat baskets as souvenirs of your trip. 

Valley of the Saco. 

Soon after leaving Goodrich Falls we reach the 
Saco valley, and crossing the Ellis River, the Rocky 
Branch, and the Saco, in quick succession, turn ab- 
ruptly towards the west. For the remainder of the 
distance to the Crawford House we are passing over 
the same road as those who came up from Centre Har- 
bor and Conway. 

The Rocky Branch, which here joins the Saco, at 
the time of the AVilley slide rose so rapidly as to sur- 
round a log cabin on its banks before the inmates 
could make their escape. They soon found themselves 
floating down the swollen stream, but were at last 
landed in safety on the summit of a little hill. 

As we proceed up the Saco, the beautiful level inter- 
vals, on each side of the stream, are worthy of our 
attention, as well as the hills, which rise boldly on each 
side at no great distance from the river. Before us, a 
little to the left, are the three peaks of Tremont Moun- 
tain, about 3,500 feet in height, and directly behind, for 
a long distance, we can see the noble pyramidal form 
of Kiarsarge, sometimes called Pequawket. On its 
summit, at the height of 3,400 feet, is distinctly seen 
the large hotel, erected some years ago for the accom- 
modation of visitors. It is now unfortunately unin- 
habited and in ruins. The solitariness of Kiarsarge 
gives it a lonely dignity scarcely equalled by any other 
mountain in the resrion. 



72 WHITE MOUJVTJiIJ\r OUIDE. 

The part of the Saco valley through which we are 
now passing forms the town of Bartlett. It is nearly 
coincident with a tract of land granted to Capt. Wil- 
liam Stark and Vere Royce, as a reward for services 
performed in Canada during the French and Indian 
war, and was settled about 1770. There is no com- 
pact village in the town, but the houses are scattered 
at considerable intervals along the valley. 

The Bartlett House, in this town, is the half-way sta- 
tion between the Glen and the Notch. Mr. Frank 
George is the landlord. It is the dinner station and 
will make its appearance none too early in the day. It 
is twenty miles from the Glen and fifteen from the 
Crawford House. The passengers from the first train; 
from Portland, over the Portland and Ogdensburgh 
Railroad, via Conway for the Notch, also dine here. 

After proceeding a short distance from the Half-way 
House, which we have just left, we pass a high rock, 
close to the road, on the left hand, called 

Sawyer's Rock, 
and famous for its association with the discovery of 
the Great Notch. The story is narrated by Mr. Wil- 
ley, in his well known White Mountain Incidents. In 
early periods the land on the north side of the moun- 
tains was almost valueless on account of the long cir- 
cuit Avhich must be made to reach it. It is supposed 
that the Indians had been acquainted with the pass, 
now called the Notch, and had taken their prisoners 



WHITE MOUJfTJilJsr GUIDE. 73 

through it to Canada ; but it Avas still unknown to the 
white inhabitants, until about 1771 a solitary hunter, 
named Nash, happened to climb a tree on Cherry- 
Mountain to look for game. Casting his eye towards 
the south-east he thought he perceived an opening 
through the mountains. Making his way in that direc- 
tion, he arrived at last at the narrow opening called 
the Gate of the Notch, and passing through the gorge 
he proceeded to Portsmouth, and announced the long 
wished-for discovery to Gov. Wentworth. Hunters 
had before scaled the mountains on foot, so the gov- 
ernor determined to test the feasibility of the pass, by 
promising Nash a large tract of land on the north side 
of the mountains, — since known as Nash and SaAvyer's 
Location, — if he would get a horse through and bring 
him to Portsmouth. This was by no means an easy 
task ; but by the aid of Sawyer, a felloAv-hunter, he suc- 
ceeded in bringing the horse through, sometimes draw- 
ing him up high precipices Avith ropes, and then letting 
him doAvn on the other side. "When they let him doAvn 
the last rock on the southern side, SaAA^er drained the 
rum from his bottle, and, dashing it on the rock, ex- 
claimed, " This shall hereafter be called SaAA^yer's 
Rock ! " — and so it is. 

A little beyond this point the road turns to the north, 
as it folloAvs the great bend of the Saco round Hart's 
Ledge on the opposite side of the valley, and soon 
crosses a small stream, called SaAvyer's RiA^er. At the 
source of this brook, three or four miles to the AA-est, is 
Beamis Pond, a small sheet of water, often resorted to 
for trouting by the guests of the Mt. CraAvford House. 



74 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJT GUIDE. 



Nancy's Brook and Bridge. 
The forests and the niouutaios now begin to close in, 
as if to prepare the traveller for the contracted atmos- 
phere of the Notch, and a little brook comes leaping 
down the mountain side with a winning air of wild 
freedom. This is Nancy's Brook, and the rustic struc- 
ture thrown across it is Nancy's Bridge. The ravine, 
over which this bridge is thrown, is about 200 feet long, 
20 feet wide, and 35 feet deep, and seems to have been 
chiselled from the solid granite. Mr. Oakes, in his 
White Mountain Scenery, says that this ravine is a 
beautiful specimen of the trap dike of geologists. The 
granite crust of the earth has been lifted and cracked, 
and into the fissure thus formed the hot liquid matter 
has been injected from below, cooling afterwards into 
trap rock. In the course of time the trap rock falls to 
pieces, and is carried away by the force of water, leav- 
ing the perpendicular walls of granite on each side 
standing, with an empty space between them. It was 
near this spot that a disconsolate maiden perished with 
fatigue and cold, when she had walked all the way 
from Jefferson, through the snow and darkness, in pur- 
suit of her recreant lover. She was found stiff and 
cold, sitting at the foot of a tree near the bank of this 
brook. The incident has already afforded material for 
the pen of the novelist, and the skill of the pencil has 
been repeatedly employed in portraying the picturesque 
beauty of Nancy's Bridge, and its setting of wild rocks, 
and trees, and bubbling cascades. The best view is to 



WHITE MOUJ\rT^lJ\r GUIDE. 75 

be obtained at a little distance down the stream. A 
saw-mill, unfortunately, covers the upper half of the 
charming scene. 

Half a mile beyond this bridge we come to the build- 
ing formerly called the Mt. Crawford House. This 
hotel, once one of the most popular houses of the region, 
has of late years been closed. It was formerly much 
frequented by sportsmen, who will be glad to learn that 
itis nowto be open by Mr. George, of the Bartlett hotel, 
as a boarding-house. There is a path from this point 
to Mt. Washington, styled the Davis Road, which is 
longer than the others, but inferior to none in roman- 
tic interest. Wo arc now in the midst of Hart's Loca- 
tion, which borders the Notch on the southern side, 
while Nash and Sawyer's approaches it on the north. 

On this very spot old Abel Crawford, styled the 
" Patriarch of the Mountains," lived and reared his 
family. At the age of seventy-five he made the first 
ascent ever made to Mt. Washington on horseback. 
When he was eighty he was so robust as to think 
nothing of walking eight miles before breakfast to his 
son's house at the Gate of the Notch. His son, Ethan 
Allen Crawford, called the " Giant of the Hills," cut 
the first bridle path to Mt. Washington, in 1821. He 
resided, at that time, near the Giant's Grave, on the 
north side of the Notch, and the path was nearly, if 
not quite, coincident with the one now called '^ Fabyan's 
Path." All the paths on the western side of the moun- 
tains were cut by the Crawfords. Ethan was a great 



76 WHITE MOUJVTjlIJ\r GUIDE. 

hunter, and used to delight his guests with quaintly 
related stories of many a daring adventure. Both he 
and his father acted as guides to the travellers Avho, in 
their time, visited the mountains. At the time of the 
Willey slide, the Saco rose so rapidly and so high as 
to flood the lower story of Mr. Crawford's house, be- 
fore the family could escape. He himself was away 
from home, but the rest retired to the upper story, and 
during the raging tempest, Mrs. Crawford stood at the 
north window, clearing away with a pole the logs and 
other drift Avhich pressed with so much force against 
the house as to threaten it with instant destruction. 
This intrepid woman was the mother of eight sons. 

The Approach to the Notch. 
As we proceed up the Saco, Mt. Crawford and the 
Giant's Stairs are distinctly visible beyond the river on 
the right. The southern peak, Mt. Crawford, is 3,200 
feet high, and the northern, 3,500. Between them is 
Mt. Resolution. Over these eminences passes the Da- 
vis Road to Mt. Washington. After crossing the Saco 
tAvice, the road now turns a little towards the north-west. 
This road was the tenth turnpike constructed in New 
Hampshire, and Avas incorporated in 1803. It extends 
through the Notch, and through Nash and Sawyer's 
Location, twenty miles, and cost forty thousand dollars. 
On account of the immense travel over it, it neverthe- 
less paid Avell. At the present time, however, owing 
to>the railroads around the mountains, there is little 
travel except in the summer. Before it was laid out 



WHITE MOUJVTAIJ^ GUIDE. 77 

the common county road crossed the Saco thirty-two 
times in making its way up the valley. A little fur- 
ther on we pass through a forest of gigantic white 
birches, and catch an occasional view of a lofty over- 
hanging mountain directly in front. 

At last the great Notch bursts upon our view in all 
its sublime majesty, and, looking up the gorge, Ave be- 
hold the frowning \Yebster on the right, the scarred 
sides of the fatal Willey on the left, and the rounded 
summit of Mt. Willard just appearing far away in the 
middle of the picture. This view of Mt. Webster from 
the end, is perhaps the most impressive way in which 
it can be seen. We cannot help wondering if human 
foot has ever dared to tread its apparently inaccessible 
heights, or to explore its mysterious recess. Well was 
it named for him, whose overhanging, thoughtful broAv 
these majestic cliffs so much resemble. 

Descending rapidly into the Notch, the road passes 
over the debris of the first slide, now covered with a 
considerable growth of white birches. Bowlders are 
scattered around in wild confusion, and the atmos- 
phere of death and destruction seems still to linger 
about the place. A few rods bring us to the second 
slide, and we catch the first sight of 

The Willey House. 

This famous edifice, situated on the left hand of the 

road directly under Willey Mountain, was the scene 

of the great disaster which caused the loss of the 

whole Willey family. Only the northern and smaller 



78 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJSr GUIDE. 

portion of the present building was standing at that 
time, the southern part having been added in later 
years to accommodate guests who sometimes stop 
here. The original building was erected by a Mr. 
Hill, for a public house, not far from 1820. Previous 
to this period there was no habitation between the 
Old Crawford House and the Rosebrooks', a distance 
of 13 miles. Its hospitable roof was often greeted 
with gratitude by many a traveller, who would, per- 
haps, otherwise have perished in the awful snow-drifts 
so common in the Notch during winter. After occu- 
pying the house for a few years, Mr. Hill left it, and 
it stood empty for several months. At last, in the 
autumn of 1825, Mr. Willey moved in Avith his 
family, and passed the ensuing winter very comfort- 
ably. In the June following, however, there was a 
slide from the mountain, which somewhat terrified 
them, but did them no permanent injury. It proved 
to be a w^arning of the great disaster which was to 
follow. On the night of Aug. 28, 1826, a violent 
tempest raged about the Notch, and a vast amount of 
soil and of rocks on Willey Mountain was precipi- 
tated into the valley below, overwhelming the whole 
family, consisting of Mr. Willey, his wife, five chil- 
dren, and two hired men. Mr. Willey had been an- 
ticipating a slide, and had built for himself a shelter 
farther down the valley, in Avhat he supposed would 
be a safe place for refuge. It is supposed that the 
family were endeavoring to reach this place when they 
were overtaken by the slide. The house itself was 



WHITE MOUJ^T^IJ^ GUIDE. 



79 



not injured, though the cabin, which it is possible they 
reached, was carried away. A pile of stones alone 
marks the place where the bodies of most of them 
were found. The father, mother, and two children 
rest in the burial place of the family, near the bound- 
ary of Bartlett and Conway. The house was desert- 
ed for a year after this event ; but at last a fVimily 
named Pendexter moved in, and it has been generally 
occupied since that period. Of late years it has be- 
come important as a show-place, twelve and a half 
cents being charged for showing each person through 
the house. There is, however, nothing within the ru- 
inous edifice of sufficient interest to warrant even thia 
trifling expenditure. In the rear is seen the great rock, 
once thirty feet high, which separated the slide, and 
thus saved the house. The top of it is now almost 
level with the ground around it, and a pole thirty feet 
high has been erected close by, to assist the inexpe- 
ri^nced mind in forming a correct conception of the 
former height of the rock. So kindly is sight-seeing 
here made easy for beginners. From the top of the 
rock, a beautiful path, quite the most attractive ele- 
ment of the scene, winds among the birches on the 
slide, far up the mountain. In front of the house is 
still standing the ruin of the stable, which was half 
demolished by the avalanche. Before remounting the 
coach, you should not f^iil to drink some of the excel- 
lent water to be found at the upper end of the piazza. 

It is sometimes Avondered that any one dares to 
inhabit so perilous a spot as this ; but it must not be 



80 WHITE MOUJVTjlJJ\r GUIDE. 

forgotten that the side of Willey is now so bare, that 
there seems nothing more to come down but the solid 
rock of the mountain. On the opposite side of the 
river, however, Mt. Webster rises, apparently perpen- 
dicular, to the height of 2,000 feet above the valley, 
and almost threatens to overwhelm it. In every tem- 
pest the inhabitants of the Willey House hear the enor- 
mous rocks crashing down its precipitous sides, with 
the sound of thunder, while lightnings play about its 
awful brow. But there is in reality no danger. 

The Head of the Notch. 
* After leaving the Willey House, the road winds up 
the narrow ravine for about three miles, ever and anon 
crossing the rushing stream, and bending around pro- 
jecting rocks. This part of the trip is generally per- 
formed at the close of the day, Avhen the lengthened 
shadoAvs add a gloomy grandeur to the scene. Shut 
in by dismal walls 2,000 feet high, our hearts sink 
within us with a feeling of utter insignificance. The 
steep sides of Willey Mountain are diversified by tier 
above tier of wand-like white birches, the stems being 
peculiarly apparent on account of the steepness of the 
mountain. At the top of this mountain, on a sort of 
plateau, is a little lake called Ethan's Pond. Near 
as this is to the Saco, it yet finds its outlet towards 
the south-west into the Pemigewasset, and so into the 
Merrimack. On each side, far above our heads, little 
torrents come pouring down over the rocks in cas- 
cades, which will be examined more at our leisure^ 



WHITE MOUJ\rTArj\r guide. 81 

in excursions from the Crawford House. As we pro- 
ceed, the " Old Maid of the Mountain," a great stone 
face, just above the road on the rigiit hand side, on a spur 
of Mt. Webster, and an overhanging rock on the same 
side of the road, near the gate of the Notch, called the 
" Devil's Pulpit," come into view. On the face of this, 
with imagination, can be seen another profile, called 
" The Infant," which is said to have been discovered 
by Ex-Governor N. B. Baker, now of Iowa. Directly 
opposite the Devil's Pulpit is another profile, called 
the " Young Man of the Mountain." In front, far up 
on Mt. Willard, which has now assumed gigantic pro- 
portions, appears the black mouth of the " Devil's Den.'* 
Just before arriving at the Gate, the road turns a little 
to the right, mth a bend in the Notch itself, and we 
suddenly emerge from the wondrous gorge between 
two chaotic piles of rocks and uprooted trees. 

The Crawford House is now in sight, and a short 
ride over a level road brings us to the piazza. We 
must not be surprised at the number of spectators who 
come to see our debarkation, for the arrival of the 
evening coaches is one of the most exciting events of 
the day here. 

The Crawford House and Vicinity. 
The Crawford House is a large and new edifice, very 
commodious and agreeable for a summer hotel. There 
are pleasant piazzas on the outside, and fine halls, 
much used in the evening for promenading, run the 
entire length of the house within. The parlor is large 
6 



82 WHITE MOUJ\rTJlIJV QUIDE. 

and well furnished, the dining-room ample in its pro^ 
portions, and its table always supplied with the delica- 
cies of the metropolitan markets, as well as such sub- 
stantial articles of mountain production as delicious 
berries and the richest milk and cream. The office is 
situated in the central part of the house, and generally 
presents as busy a scene as the great square in a city. 
Hither every one comes to talk over his plans, and to 
make arrangements for various excursions, or for con- 
tinuing his journey to other points of interest. 

The bridle-path is still kept open ; and, if you desire 
to ascend by this once favorite route, it will be well 
to make known your plans, and engage a horse. The 
price of a horse to the summit and back, with guides 
for the party, is $5. Here also is the post-office of this 
wild region. The lodging-rooms of the house are well 
furnished and pleasant, especially those which have win- 
dows towards the Notch. Connected with the hotel are 
a bowling-alley for rainy-day and evening amusement, 
and extensive stables, furnished with a large number of 
horses, to be used either under the saddle or in car- 
riages, for the delightful rides in this vicinity. This 
hotel is now owned by Messrs. A. T. & O. F. Barron, 
who are also the proprietors of the Twin Mountain 
House. The house has been newly furnished and re- 
paired, and is in excellent condition throughout. The 
reputation gained by the Twin Mountain House will be 
fully sustained here, while the guests of the house will 
also find that the standard of excellence has not been 
lost sight of, which has long characterized the " Notch 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 8? 

House." A more cheerful and pleasant resting-placr 
cannot be found in the mountain tour, and visitors will 
find it agreeable to spend a few days in exploring th?' 
beauties of the neighborhood. The hotel is lighted witl? 
gas throughout, and all the sleeping-rooms are on th^ 
first and second floors. There is also a station of th« 
Western Union Telegraph Company at the house, with 
communication over the summit of Mt. Washington, ta 
the Glen and to the Profile House, connecting also with 
the line to Boston. 

The Plateau. 
We are now in the midst of a little plateau, about 
two thousand feet above the sea. It is the highest 
point of the valley, and the water flows from it in both 
directions, the spring near the house discharging its 
contents down through the Notch into the Saco, and 
that at the stables emptying itself into a tributary of 
the Ammonoosuc, and reaching the sea through the 
Connecticut. In front of the house there is a beautiful 
fountain, and farther on, a tiny lake, which forms the 
head waters of the Saco. Down near the gate of the 
Notch, on the left hand, are the ruins of the old Notch 
House. This was erected by Ethan Allen Crawford 
and his father, and kept for a public house by Thomas 
J. CraAvford, a brother of Ethan. Many a thrilling 
tale is narrated of tlie adventures of the early guests 
at this house who attempted to ascend the mountains 



84 



WHITE MOUJVT^IJV GUIDE. 



under the guidance of the Crawfords, or sometimes 
even Avithout guides. The appearance of the Notch 
House is familiar to almost every one, from its having 




WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. 



been pictured so often in our common school books. 
It was the largest house of the region for a long time 
after it was built, and the upper story projected over 
the arch-topped sheds below in a peculiar manner. 
After the Crawford House was erected, the building 
was used for lodging the supernumeraries, who could 
not find quarters in the large hotel. 



WHITE MOUJ^rrAi^r guide. 85 

Mt. Willard. 

This mountain is easily ascended, to the very sum- 
mit, in carriages, which are furnished for the excursion 
at a reasonable rate, while those who prefer to make 
the ascent on foot will find the walk, through groves 
of maple and mountain ash, pleasant, and by no means 
fatiguing. Were the ascent less attractive in other 
respects, the ease and safety with which it can be 
made, even by an invalid, must render Mt. Willard a 
favorite ; but it is very generally conceded by tourists, 
that the view from the summit of this mountain affords 
more pleasure than that from its more pretentious 
neighbors. By a gradual ascent, over heavily-wooded 
slopes, you reach an elevation of more than two thou- 
sand feet above the Crawford House, and stand upon a 
little plateau, which is broken by the precipitous south- 
ern front of the mountain, and thickly strewn with 
delicate and beautiful mountain harebells. Directly in 
front, at your very feet as you emerge from the scanty 
and stunted growth which marks the approach to the 
summit, lies the Notch — then only fully felt when, 
after having gazed upward from its gloomy fastnesses 
at the massive barriers which hem you in, you learn 
from this standpoint how well its grandeur and mag- 
nificence will bear calmer and more protracted scrutiny. 
Here you catch at a glance the conformation of the 
entire valley. You can trace the carriage road wind- 
ing like a ribbon down through the wooded pass. In 
the distance lies the Willey House, above which 



86 WHITE MOUJ\rTAIJ^ GUIDE. 

" "Winds underground or waters forcing way 
Sidelong have forced a mountain from his seat, 
Half-sunk with all his pines," — 

while on every hand are indications that such a catas- 
trophe as overwhelmed its inmates is not even now 
impossible. Down the rugged face of the mountains 
to your left, across the Notch, can be traced innumera- 
ble cascades, glistening in the sunshine, and assuming 
each moment some new phase of wonderful and varied 
beauty, where 

" Like a downward smoke, the slender stream, 
Along the cliff to fall, and pause, and fall doth seem." 

Far above, tower those more noted and eagerly wel- 
comed peaks, which envious hills and forests snatch 
from the gazer below. The whole landscape, seen 
" through varying lights and shadows," is perhaps as 
attractive and winning as any thing in the vicinity of 
the Crawford House. 

Of this view. Bayard Taylor speaks as follows, as 
he saw it upon a recent visit : — 

" The effect Avas magical. The sky had, in the 
mean time, partially cleared, and patches of sunny gold 
lay upon the dark mountains. Under our feet yawned 
the tremendous gulf of the Notch, roofed with belts 
of cloud, which floated across from summit to summit 
nearly at our level ; so that we stood, as in the organ- 
loft of some grand cathedral, looking down into its 
dim nave. At the farther end, over the fading lines 
of some nameless mountains, stood Chocorua, purple 
with distance, terminating the majestic vista. It was 



WHITE MOUJVTAIJ^ GUIDE, 87 

a picture which the eye could take in at one glace ; 
no landscape could be more simple or more sublime. 
The noise of a cataract to our right, high up on 
Mount Willey, filled the air with a far, sweet fluctuat- 
ing murmur, but all round us the woods were still, 
the harebells bloomed, and the sunshine lay warm 
upon the gTanite. 

"I had never heard this view particularly celebrated, 
and was therefore the more impressed by its wonderful 
beauty. As a simple picture of a mountain pass, seen 
from above, it cannot be surpassed in Switzerland. 
Something like it I have seen in the Taurus, otherwise 
I can recall no view with which to compare it. A por- 
tion of the effect, of course, depends on the illumina- 
tion, but no traveller who sees it on a day of mingled 
cloud and sunshine will be disappointed." 

The Devil's Den. 
Near the summit of Mt. Willard, on the southern 
side, is the remarkable cavern called the " Devil's 
Den," Avhose black mouth was distinctly visible in 
coming up the Notch. This cavern, which is only 
accessible by means of ropes, was explored, in 1856, 
by Dr. Ball of Boston, who secured as trophies of 
his exploration two hawk's feathers, and effectually 
dissipated the impression that the cavern was of im- 
mense extent, and frequented through another entrance 
by beasts of prey. The Den proved to be only about 
twenty feet wide, fifteen feet high, and twenty deep, 
and so cold and damp that not even the birds take 



88 WHITE JlIOUJ^TJlIJSr GUIDE. 

refuge in it. The story of its previous exploration by 
one of the CraAvforcls, Avho discovered large quantities 
of bones and the usual accessories of all famous cav- 
erns, must be a myth. 

No one who visits the Crawford House should fail 
to make an excursion down through the Notch, even 
if he has just come up from Bartlett. The view in 
this direction is so much more impressive, the masses 
of Willard, Webster, and Willey being almost before 
you, that the effect is much more grand and sublime. 
You must take this path also to visit the various ob- 
jects of interest in the Notch itself. The first of these 
is about three fourths of a mile from the hotel, and is 
called 

The Flume. 

The part of the little mountain stream, which here 
is crossed by a small bridge, derives its name from the 
narrow and deep gorge through which the waters rush 
wdth great rapidity. The chasm, like many others in 
the mountains, though doubtless formed by some con- 
vulsion of Nature, seems chiselled out of the solid rock. 
Where the rivulet descends from the mountain side 
above, there is a fall of some two or three hundred 
feet, and on the opposite side you can still hear, though 
you cannot see, the water rushing dowTi still farther 
to join the current of the Saco, which winds its way 
through the whole length of the Notch. You may be 
tempted to an exploration, but your path, though not 
dangerous, Avill be very difficult. 

A little distance farther down the Notch you will 



WHITE MOUJ\rTjiIJ\r GUIDE. 89 

come to the most beautiful of all the falls on this side 
of the mountain, the 

Silver Cascade. 
This is also sometimes called the Second Flume, 
from a similar formation, immediately beneath the 
bridge, to the one already described. But its chief 
charm is in the perpendicular descent of water for a 
distance of almost four hundred feet. As you stand 
on the piazza of the hotel, you see this same stream 
far up the mountain, full a mile distant, leaping over 
the rocks and flashing in the sunlight like a silvered 
pinnacle of some mountain shrine. But as you stand 
on the bridge, or at the very base of the fall, which 
you can reach with care, the water seems pouring 
over the edge of the precipice. Just after a heavy 
rain the huge rock, which just below the summit 
usually divides the current, is almost entirely con- 
cealed by the spray. Like the most of mountain falls, 
it rather glides over the surface of the ledge than leaps 
in a clear, unbroken sheet from the summit to the base^ 
At first the water is diffused over a broad surface, and 
in times of a drought is divided into several small 
streams. Before it reaches the base, however, all 
the water is compressed into a very narrow channel. 
Then, hurrying along over a comparatively level bed, 
it again, as it reaches the bridge, plunges down a dis- 
tance of some twenty feet, and, driving through the 
flume, disappears among the bushes on the opposite 
side of the road. There is, perhaps, no place on this 



90 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

side of the mountains which so enchains one by its 
loveliness as the Silver Cascade. You may spend 
hours around it, and yet long to return to its solitary 
beauty. The very height of the mountains, rising al- 
most perpendicularly on each side of you, causes you 
to feel the impressiveness and power of the rushing 
torrent. These cascades will appear to particular ad- 
vantage, if you are fortunate enough to walk down 
into the Notch on a moonlight evening. Carriages, 
also, often leave the Crawford House on other excur- 
sions, such as to the Willey House, and to Ammonoosuc 
Falls, which will be described below. The fare to these 
falls, when a carriage is sent for the purpose, is fifty 
cents for each passenger. 

Sparkling Cascade and Sylvan Glade Cataract. 

Mr. King, in his admirable " White Hills,'* speaks 
of these falls as follows : — 

" But a more wild and beautiful w^aterfall than any 
hitherto seen on the western side of the mountains was 
discovered at Mount Willey, in September, 1858, by 
Mr. Ripley of North Conway, and Mr. Porter of New 
York. An old fisherman had reported, at the Craw- 
ford House, that he had once seen a wonderful cascade 
on a streamlet that pours down that mountain and 
empties into the Saco below the Willey House. These 
gentlemen drove through the Notch to the second bridge 
below the Willey House, which crosses a stream with 
the unpoetical name of Cow Brook, and followed up 
the rivulet into the wild- forest. An ascent of nearly 



WHITE MOUJVT^IJV GUIDE. 91 

two miles revealed to them the object of their search, 
enclosed between the granite walls of a very steep 
ravine, whose cliffs, crowned with a dense forest of 
spruce, are singularly grand. They saw the cascade 
leaping first over four rocky stairways, each of them 
about six feet high, and then gliding at an angle of 
forty-five degrees, a hundred and fifty feet, with many 
graceful curves, down a solid bed of granite into the 
pool beloAv. The cascade is about seventy-five feet 
wide at the base, and fifty at the summit. 

" Exploring the stream nearly a mile higher, other 
falls were discovered, each one deserving especial no- 
tice, and one or two of most rare beauty. The finest 
of these upper falls was christened, we believe, by the 
discoverer, the ' Sparkling Cascade,' and the larger one 
below, the 'Sylvan Glade Cataract.' The brook itself 
has been named since in honor of Mr. Ripley, and the 
ravine, of Mr. Porter. We hope, however, that the 
name ' Avalanche Brook,' which we believe the ex- 
plorers first gave to it, may be the permanent title 
of the stream, since it flows near the track of the fatal 
land slide of 1826, and that Mr. Ripley's name may 
be transferred to the cataract. 

" Mr. Champney, who visited the falls about a fort- 
night after their discovery, is inclined to ascribe to them 
a nobler beauty than any other thus far known among 
the mountains. He describes the picturesque rock- 
forms as wonderful, and their richness in color and 
making, in mosses and lichens, as more admirable than 
any others he has had the privilege of studying in the 



92 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

mountain region. And this cascade is only a sample, 
probably, of the uncelebrated beauties in the wilder- 
ness around the White Hills." 

GiBBs's Falls. 

There is near the Crawford House a series of cas- 
cades which are well worthy tlie attention of the tour- 
ist. By entering the woods near the stables of the 
Crawford House, and following the aqueduct which 
supplies the hotel with water, the traveller soon reaches 
a brook which presents a succession of falls that in 
romantic loveliness are inferior to none in the White or 
Francouia Mountains. To the most striking of these 
the name of one of the landlords of the Crawford 
House has been given. Gibbs's Falls is about a quar- 
ter of a mile from the point at which the aqueduct 
issues from the brook, and is easily accessible in half an 
hour's walk from the hotel. The water at this point 
makes an abrupt descent of thirty or forty feet in two 
distinct sheets, which are separated by a projecting 
cliff draped in a scanty verdure of lichens and mosses, 
and cro^NTied by a single monster pine. The contrast 
between the emerald greenness of the projecting islet 
and the foaming torrents which encompass it on either 
hand is picturesque in the extreme, and these hitherto 
nameless falls are well worthy the attention of the artist 
and the lover of nature. 

The greatest feat to be performed during your stay 
at this hotel, and that for which the others are only 
preparative, is the 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 93 



Ascent of Mt. Washington from the Crawford 
House. 

By far the larger number of people make the ascent 
over the railroad, which is attended with no more fatigue 
than the same time spent in similar conveyances on level 
ground. But there are attractions about the old bridle- 
path which still cause it to be selected by many. The 
distance is about nine miles, and ten hours are usually 
occupied in the trip. At least one guide always accom- 
panies the party. 

The clothing should be warm, and a kind that can be 
easily and securely fastened. It is also well to remem- 
ber, that the high winds, which nearly always prevail 
on mountain peaks, are specially adapted to making sport 
with hats. Alternations of sunshine and rain are by no 
means uncommon, and to pass from the brightest sun- 
shine into impenetrable mists upon the summits is of 
almost every day occurrence. It often happens that the 
summit of Mt. Washington is wrapped in clouds, while 
the lower peaks over which you pass in ascending by the 
bridle-path are bathed in sunshine. When this is the case, 
these views are the most satisfactory to be obtained in 
the mountain region, and well deserve a separate trip. 
Sometimes the ascent is made on foot, but the length 
as well as the roughness and steepness of these moun- 
tain paths render this mode of travel too wearisome for 
enjoyment. It is never safe for one unacquainted with 
the route, to attempt it without a guide, as it is quite 



94 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



easy to lose one's way in a fog, which may come up 
quite unexpectedly. 

The horses are mounted at the piazza, and the path 
passes directly into the forest on the east of the hotel. 

General View op the Range. 
The first mountain which we ascend on this path is 
Mt. Clinton. It belongs to the great range, which ex- 
tends from the Notch north-easterly to Mt. Madison, 
a distance of fourteen miles. The whole mountain 
region of New Hampshire is about forty miles square, 
but the name, " White Mountains," is sometimes ap- 
plied, for the sake of distinction, only to this particular 
group, of which Mt. AVashington is the culminating 
point. The following list gives the name and height 
of each mountain of the range, in its order, commenc- 
ing: at the Notch : — 



Mt. 


Webster, 


4,000 ft. 


Mt. 


Washington, 


6,285 ft. 


Mt. 


Jackson, 


4,100 " 


Mt. 


Clay, 


5,400 " 


Mt. 


Clinton, 


4,200 " 


Mt. 


JeiFerson, 


5,700 " 


Mt. 


Pleasant, 


4,800 " 


Mt. 


Adams, 


5,800 " 


Mt. 


Franklin, 


4,900 " 


Mt. 


Madison, 


5,400 " 


Mt. 


Monroe, 


5,400 " 









One of the Indian names of these mountains was 
" Agiocochook," which signifies " the place of the 
Spirit of the Great Forest," or, according to Judge 
Potter, " the place of the Storm Spirit," and another, 



WHITE MOUJVTjilJ^ GUIDE. 95 

" Waumbekketmethna," alluding to the luhiteness of 
the mouutains. The distinctive title of "White" has 
always been applied to them on account of their peaks 
being Avhite Avith snow during ten months of the year. 

Even in July and August the bare rocks have a 
grayish cast, when seen from a distance, which almost 
entitles them to the name of ivhite. These noble hills 
were first visited in 1732, by a man named Darby 
Field. 

The great advantage of this route to the summit of 
Mount Washington consists in the passage over sepa- 
rate mountain peaks, from each of which views of 
great beauty are obtained. It often happens, too, that 
when the summit of Washington is Avrapped in an 
impenetrable mantle of mist, these lower summits, and 
all the surrounding landscape, are in clear light, and 
often, indeed, bathed in sunshine. When this is the 
case, those who ascend by this route have the pleasure 
of enjoying the peculiar excitement of standing on the 
clear mountain top. Neither should one regret an 
occasional cloud or shower. No mountain effect can 
be finer than that produced by the dense masses of 
boiling vapor, as they gather in the valleys, now all on 
fire from the rays of the sun, shading oiF into golden 
tints, and now a dark sombre gray, needing only a 
little less light to become the " I'aer perso " of Dante's 
Inferno, slowly yet steadily rolling up the mountain 
side, concealing the depths of the ravine, and at last 
enveloping you with its penetrating moisture. Then 



96 WHITE MOU^N-TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

the mist leaves you as suddenly as it came, and opens 
to your vision an abyss yawning at your very feet and 
reaching to the mountain's base. Such sights as these 
are ample compensation for the passing shower. Then 
at another time, both here and on the summit, you 
may often see the light fleecy clouds floating about the 
ravines, climbing the slopes, or hurrying over the val- 
leys, casting long shadows over the green mountain 
sides, and spotting the fields with a deeper color. AVe 
shall see these clouds 

" Lie couched around us like a flock of sheep," 

when the haze has been swept from the horizon, imme- 
diately after a rain-storm. This is unquestionably the 
pleasantest time to ascend the mountains. 

The fatigue of the long horseback ride is greater to 
those not accustomed to it than the ascent in a car- 
riage. But there is more romance attending this mode 
of conveyance ; there is a different class of views to 
be obtained, and perhaps more which will be please nt 
to look back upon when passed. Mr. Taylor calls it 
" by far the most compensating road to the summit.'* 

The Ascent of Mt. Clinton 

is commenced immediately on entering the woods. The 
Summit is two or three miles from the hotel, and more 
than four thousand feet above the level of the sea. The 
path lies through a dense forest, winding in a wet gully 
worn out of the mountain side, with an occasional cor- 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 97 

duroy bridge. The change in the character of the trees, 
from beech, birch, maple, and ash to the evergreens, as 
you ascend, all other kinds finally yielding to a kind of 
dwarf fir, often so intertangled as to render it impossible 
to walk through them, is especially noticeable. Just 
before reaching the top, a region of dead trees, supposed 
to have been killed by the intense frosts of 1812 and 
1816, is passed. 

View fro:m Mt. Clixton. 

The path lies a little to the north of the summit of 
Mt. Clinton, and as we wind around it over the bare 
rocks, the first noble mountain view bursts upon our 
sight. Almost directly before us, towards the east, is 
the conical summit of Kearsarge, and apparently near 
it some little silver lakes, with a blue setting of many 
mountains ; and behind we can discern Willard, and the 
other mountains around the Notch, mottled here and 
there with the shadows of passings clouds. 

As we begin to descend to the narrow ridge, which 
joins this mountain to the next, we gain a view of the 
nearer objects beneath us. On the right, at a depth 
of 2,000 feet, is a vast forest, through which winds 
the Mt. Washington River, and beyond is a long range 
of giant hills, which, like these Ave are on, seem march- 
ing in solemn procession towards the great central 
shrine. On the left, at a similar depth, the Ammonoo- 
suc is seen threading the forest, and at last finding its 
way to the open country in the distance. The first ex- 
perience of real mountain travel is gained as we slide 
7 



98 fVHITE MOUJ^'T^IJ^ GUIDE. 

down the rocks, and wind along the bleak ridge, which 
connects Mt. Clinton with 

Mt. Pleasant. 

The path generally pursued passes around the south- 
ern side of this mountain several hundred feet below its 
summit, although there is one directly over, which the 
horses by no means fancy, and can very seldom be in- 
duced to take. A guide-board should be erected here, 
as the descent on the other side of Mt. Pleasant is very 
difficult, and parties, in advance of the guide, sometimes 
take the wrong road. As we pass along the narrow 
path, Ave come to a delightful spring, where we can, if 
we choose, drink from a glass kept there for the pur- 
pose. It is remarkable that both men and horses always 
drink more upon the mountains than they do below, 
perhaps on account of the increased rapidity of evapo- 
ration. In the vicinity of this spring, as at other shel- 
tered sunny spots along the path, exquisite little spring 
flowers, such as anemones and bluebells, are found 
just opening in August. The season here resembles 
the arctic summer, the snow not disappearing till July, 
and coming early again in September. During two 
months vegetation comes on with wonderful speed, and 
the whole cycle of growth and fructification is com- 
pleted. You must not allow your horse to turn out of 
the beaten path to crop the tender grass, as he desires, 
for often serious accidents are the result of such yield- 
ing. Here, if he should lose his foothold, you would 
be precipitated a great distance down the side of the 



WHITE MOUJVTAIJf OUIDE. 99 

mountain. Neither, if you dismount, should you allow 
your bridle to leave your hand, with the expectation 
that your horse will patiently await your return. Es- 
pecially if you lead the line are you liable to serious 
disappointment if you do. Mt. Pleasant has a pecul- 
iarly rounded top, and presents a beautiful appearance 
at a distance, whence, probably, its name, somewhat 
incongruous when compared with those of all the others 
of the patriot group. On the northern side are im- 
mense slides, which are supposed to have occurred, like 
most of those among the mountains, in the memorable 
storm of 1826. After passing around Mt. Pleasant, we 
come to an extended sort of a plain lying at the foot of 

Mt. Franklin. 
This is a very irregular, flattened peak, about a hun- 
dred feet higher than the last. The arduous ascent to 
its summit is an excellent preparation for the ascent of 
Mt. Washington, by which alone it is surpassed in diffi- 
culty. It is almost fearful to look up at the more ad- 
vanced of our party Avinding along the lofty crags far 
above our heads, but we soon climb the rocks in safety, 
and look down in turn upon those below. The path 
passes a short distance to the north-west of the summit, 
but there is no danger in turning out a little way to the 
right, and attaining the highest point. The view thence 
towards the south-east is extremely grand. Far to the 
south appear the four beautiful peaks of Chocorua 
( Cho'c6r-u-ay) , the one to the right being higher and 
more conical than the rest. Thousands of feet beloAV 



100 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJT GUIDE. 

US stretches the interminable forest, like a carpeting of 
rich, dark grass. The mountain on the eastern side is 
almost perpendicular, and, as we leave it behind, we can 
see the long scar left by a slide, which occurred one 
stormy night in the summer of 1857. 

Mt. Monroe. 
We are now approaching the two majestic peaks 
of Mt. Monroe, which is inferior to Mt. Washington in 
height rather than in symmetrical beauty. We pass 
around the south-eastern side, several hundred feet be- 
low the summit, over what we are now prepared to 
consider an easy path. Far down to the right is the 
frightful abyss kno^vTi as "Oakes's Gulf." The other 
side of this ravine is formed by the same range of 
mountains, which, farther back, we observed across the 
wide valley, approaching the central cluster. As we 
gaze down into the dizzy depths, and see huge rocks 
scattered in confusion on the bottom, and perpendicu- 
lar craggy precipices forming the sides, we cannot help 
being impressed with a feeling of awe. Sometimes 
clouds are entrapped in this fathomless gulf, and whirl 
round and round in vain attempts to escape. On the 
northern side of Mt. Washington is a similar ravine 
called the " Great Gulf." 

Approach to Mt. Washington. 
Winding around Monroe, we gain our first view of 
Mt. Washington, towering nearly fifteen hundred feet 
above us. It appears to consist of an irregular pyram- 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIM OUIDE. lOl 

idal pile of shattered grayish brown stones, standing 
as steep as they can without rolling down. Too often 
this long-expected view is lost on account of the almost 
perpetual mists which surround the summit. Before 
reaching the foot of the cone, we must pass over an 
extended plateau, which is at first quite smooth, and al- 
lows the horse to trot for a short distance. Nearer the 
mountain, however, it is scattered with innumerable 
bowlders, which appear to have been deposited here 
at the same time that the pyramid of similar stones 
before us was thrown up. The path winds among 
these rocks, and is occasionally pointed out by small 
heaps of stones piled up for that purpose many years 
ago. This plain extends a long way to the right, and 
is nearly a mile above the sea. Little patches of coarse 
grass and small ponds are found here and there upon it. 
In the western part is a beautiful sheet of water, called 
the " Lake of the Clouds," from which the Ammonoosuc 
issues. Leaving the path, and passing along the plain 
towards the east, we should come to the most wonder- 
ful of all the gorges in this region, — Tuckerman's 
Ravine. See page 61. 

Ascent of the Last Peak. 
The ascent of the cone of Mt. Washington is made 
by parties from the Crawford House, on the south- 
western side, where the rocks appear to stand almost 
perpendicular, although in reality less steep than on 
the southern side. The path appears to have been 
formed by rolling the great blocks and slabs of stone 



102 WHITE MOUJVT-^IJN' GUIDE. 

on each side, leaving a partially clear way between. 
Up this we Aviud slowly to the very summit. The 
rocks are of the most uninteresting character, con- 
sisting principally of a dull-brown mica slate. Dur- 
ing the first part of the way a great abundance of a 
delicate Alpine plant, with small white flowers, is ob- 
served among the rocks. It is curious to discuss the 
manner in which the seeds of the plant were first 
brought here, for it is entirely unlike any other plant 
found in this part of the world. But at any rate it is 
here, and relieves the scene of much of its gloominess. 
Higher up there is nothing but bleak, bare rock. If 
you propose to pass the night on the mountain, and 
wish to ride down, you must have another horse sent 
up, when you arc ready to return. The few steps 
which separate us from the top are easily passed over 
on foot, the horses being left here merely for the con- 
venience of the guides, so that they shall not become 
mingled with those from other paths. A finger on a 
guide-board, elevated upon a pile of stones, points out 
the path, the buildings on the summit being as yet 
hidden from view. 

The Summit. 
The acre of comparatively level surface on the top 
of the mountain is so completely covered with irregu- 
lar angular rocks, that one can scarcely find a smooth 
place to stand upon. The building Avhich first appears 
in sight is the Tip-Top House.* This is used at present 
as a dining-room. A little to the cast, and somewhat 

* Sec Addenda. 



WHITE MOUJ\rTJiIJ\r GUIDE. 103 

below, is the Summit House, the first building ever 
erected oa the mountain. Both of these have thick 
walls of the native rock, and are very low, with roofs 
quite low, so as to present as little surface as possible 
to the fierce winds. The Summit House was erected 
in 1852, by the united efforts of Mr. Hall and Mr. 
Rosebrook, two farmers of Jefferson, It was com- 
menced in June, and suthciently completed towards 
the close of July to form a comfortable shelter. It 
was bound down to the mountain by several large 
cables, which passed over the top of the roof. The 
interior is divided into two principal rooms, each of 
which is heated by a stove. Around these fires the 
shivering guests crowd, and present about the same 
appearance as travellers in January stopping to warm 
themselves at a country inn. The thermometer does 
not perhaps indicate a temperature below 50'', but the 
constant wind produces the effect of even thirty degrees 
below that point. In the rear of the main rooms are 
narrow dormitories, furnished since the opening of the 
carriage road with comfortable beds and other appli- 
ances for a good night's rest. Above are also other 
" sleeping-places," separated from the rooms below by 
wooden slats. Every inch of space within the building 
appears to be turned to some account. The tops of the 
lower rooms are ceiled with cotton cloth, and the sides, 
formed of rough stone walls, well pointed with mortar, 
like a common cellar wall, are now coiled with boards 
and papered, adding to the comfort and dryness of 
the room. In deep recesses are good glass windows, 



104 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

increasing very materially the comfort of the place. 
This, and the Tip-Top House, erected some years 
afterwards, together form a hotel, at which we can 
stop as long as we choose. All the materials for these 
houses, as well as the furniture, except the stone, were 
originally brought up on horseback over the steep paths. 
Stone and water are the only materials to be obtained 
on the Summit, a never-failing spring of the latter being 
found a few rods north of the Summit House, a little 
down the mountain. After the completion of the car- 
riage road a frame stable was erected for the Glea 
House carriages and horses. The opening of the rail- 
road also secured the building of a depot, In Avhich the 
observers passed their first and second winters in com- 
parative comfort. The railroad company is now en- 
gaged upon the construction of a much larger building, 
which will be completed by the summer of 1873, and 
will be used both for depot and hotel. This hotel will 
be kept on the same plan as those below, and will be 
quite as comfortable. The discomforts which now at- 
tend upon a night on Mt. Washington will then be only 
a memory of the past. If the tourist wishes to devote 
his whole time to the view, a luncheon taken at the 
hotel will make an excellent substitute for the dinner 
in the Summit House. 

The Summit has become quite an " Exchange." Par- 
ties are arriving over the different routes and from the 
various hotels. The houses on the Summit are also 
often filled to their entire capacity with guests, who 
remain to obtain the evening and morning views. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 105 

Hence it is now no uncommon occurrence for three or 
four hundred people to meet here for a* short time, and 
then separate to pursue their various paths. 

The View. 

Although the view from the Summit has already 
been described in connection with the ascent from the 
Glen, the following enumeration, from Oakes's White 
Mountain Scenery, of the objects of interest, visible on 
a clear day, may be of use to the tourist. " In the 
Avest, through the blue haze, are seen in the distance 
the ranges of the Green Mountains ; the remarkable 
outlines of the summits of Camel's Hump and Mans- 
field Mountain being easily distinguished when the 
atmosphere is clear. To the north-west, under your 
feet, are the clearings and settlements of Jefferson, the 
waters of Cherry Pond, and, farther distant, the village 
of Lancaster, with the waters of Israel's Rivero The 
Connecticut is not visible, but often, at morning and 
evening, its appearance is counterfeited by the fog 
rising from its surface. To the north and north-east, 
only a few miles distant, rise up boldly the great north- 
eastern peaks of the "White Mountain range, — Jefferson, 
Adams and Madison, — Avith their ragged tops of loose, 
dark rocks. A little farther to the east are seen the 
numerous and distant summits of Maine. On the 
south-east, close at hand, are the dark and crowded 
ridges of the mountains in Jackson ; and beyond, the 
conical summit of Kearsarge, standing by itself on the 
outskirts of the mountains ; and farther, over the low 
country of Maine, Sebago Pond, near Portland. Still 



10 G WHITE MOUJVTJlIJSr GUIDE. 

farther, it is said, the ocean itself has sometimes been 
distinctly visible. The White Mountains are often seen 
from the sea, even at thirty miles' distance from the 
shore, and nothing can prevent the sea from being seen 
from the mountains but the difficulty of distinguishing 
its appearance from that of the sky near the horizon. 
Farther to the south are the intervals of the Saco, and 
the settlements of Bartlett and Conway, the sister 
ponds of Lovwell, in Fryeburg, and still farther, the re- 
markable four-toothed summit of Chocorua, the peak 
to the right much the largest and sharply pyramidal. 
Almost exactly south are the shilling waters of the 
beautiful Winnipesaukee, seen with the greatest dis- 
tinctness in a favorable day. To the south-west, near 
at hand, are the peaks of the south-western range of 
the White Mountains*, Monroe, with its two little 
Alpine ponds sleeping under its rocky and pointed sum- 
mit ; the flat surface of Franklin, and the rounded tops 
of Mt. Pleasant, with their ridges and spurs. Beyond 
these the Willey Mountain, with its high, ridged sum- 
mit ; and beyond that several parallel ranges of high, 
wooded mountains. Farther west, and over all, is 
seen the high, bare summit of Mt. Lafayette, in Fran- 
conia. 

" At your feet is the broad valley surrounded by 
mountains, through which wind deviously the sources 
of the Ammonoosuc, w^ith its clearing at its farther 
extremity, and the Mt. Washington House ; and be- 
yond this, at twenty miles' distance, the little village of 
Bethlehem is dimly visible." 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 107 

In spite of the assertioQ of Mr. Oakes, there are two 
places in which, it is said, the shining waters visible are 
parts of the Connecticut. 

The Descent 

is usually made between two and three o'clock, when the 
trains start on the railroad. Though the path is steep, 
there is really no danger. The views are in many 
places even finer than on the ascent, and the ride is very 
enjoyable till the summit of Clinton is reached. 

Beecher's Falls 

is also one of the attractions of the Notch. An easy 
path through the woods to the right of the hotel leads 
one to a mountain brook, which, even in the dryest sea- 
son, is well filled with pure mountain water. On this 
brook, for a third of a mile, will be found a series of 
delightful cascades, not excelled for beauty in the whole 
range of mountain travel. At the head of the upper- 
most fall, called the Flume Cascade, on the broad shelv- 
ing rocks, a full view of the summit of Mt. Washington 
is to be had, which will well repay one for the ascent, 
which is by no means difiicult. The Falls are named 
for Rev. H. W. Beecher, of Brooklyn, N. Y., who is 
said to have taken an involuntary bath in one of the 
basins at the foot of a cascade. 

The mountain, in the same direction from the hotel as 
the Falls, whose summit has been disclosed by cutting 
away the trees of the hill near the house, has been 
named Mt. Lincoln. 



108 WHITE MOUJ\rTAIJ\r GUIDE. 

Ascent of Mount Washington by Rail. 

The Mt. Washington railroad also furnishes another 
route of ascent which is accessible either from the 
Crawford House, or from the White Mountain House. 
The bridle-path from the Crawford House approaches 
the summit of Mt. Washington over a succession of 
intervening and inferior mountains. The views which 
it affords of the abutting ranges and ravines on the one 
hand, and on the other of a broad expanse of check- 
ered light and shade, are unsurpassed in grandeur and 
beauty. But the fatigue of this method of ascent is by 
no means slight. 

The railroad was designed to obviate this difficulty, 
and furnish a means of ascent as easy and comfortable 
as the usual conveyance by rail. The road was com- 
menced in 1866, under the superintendence of Sylves- 
ter Marsh, the inventor, and after three years spent in 
construction, is now open to the public. The success 
which has attended the enterprise has been so marked 
as to almost revolutionize the travel in the mountain 
region. Few people now visit Mt. Washington, with- 
out making the journey one way, at least, by rail. This 
road has also served as the model of a road up the 
Rhigi in Switzerland, the working plans for which were 
furnished by Mr. Marsh. 

Carriages leave the Crawford House and the Twin 
Mountain House at 8 o'clock in the morning. From 
the Crawford House, the road for the first five miles is 
over the highway towards the Profile House. At the 
old Fabyan place, just after crossing the Ammonoosuc, 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 109 

the highway is left with an abrupt turn towards the 
south. This is a turnpike, but the tolls are included 
in the fare, which is paid to the proprietors of the hotel. 
This turnpike, which has now become a very good road, 
presents the appearance of being, as it really is, the 
most travelled road in the mountain region. It is also 
one of the most pleasant. The ride is taken in the 
early morning or late in the afternoon. For nine miles, 
you follow a winding road, which is gradually taking 
you into the very heart of the mountains. On the one 
side there rises, in regular and gentle slopes, the southern 
boundary of the pass, made up of the mountains, trav- 
ersed by the bridle-path from Crawford's, while on the 
other there brawls and bubbles a mountain brook, 
which, ever and anon, dashes across your pathway, 
assuming always some new phase of loveliness. 

About three miles from the turnpike gate you reach 
the Upper Ammouoosuc Falls. These deserve a sepa- 
rate visit. The teams usually stop here on the return to 
afford an opportunity for a cursory examination. It is a 
scene of exquisite beauty. The river, confined within 
narrow gorges, seems to have broken through the rock 
with the utmost violence ; with a zigzag course it con- 
tinues its way, wearing the foamy whiteness of its boiling 
waves, as a conqueror his well-earned crown. The 
perpendicular Avails of granite stand on either side at 
different heights, as though to guard this scene of 
beauty from unwarrantable intrusion. 

At some remote period the river must have flowed 
at a higher level than at present. Large " pot-holes,'* 



110 (VHITE MOUJSTTjllJSr GUIDE. 

six or eight feet in diameter, may be found several 
feet above the present current, and many smaller ones 
upon the surface of the upper rocks. In one of the 
largest may be counted, growing as though in a dimin- 
utive parterre, seven or eight different species of vege- 
tation. The rock has been hollowed out with chiselled 
precision, the soil has gradually accumulated, the seeds 
have been wafted from various localities, and now the 
plants, having germinated and grown in their circular, 
rock-environed garden, furnish another, out of num- 
berless indications of the faithfulness of nature, in 
adorning every unsightly object with her creations of 
beauty. 

One can follow the stream through its windings from 
the top to the bottom of the fall, by clambering along 
the sides of the miniature precipice, or, by following 
along the safer path through the woods, can reach the 
desired point with less trouble and far more security. 
By taking a station at the foot and looking up through 
the cleft of the massive rocks, the Avhole beauty of the 
Falls can be seen at a glance. The fall of water must 
be more than fifty feet in a distance of three or four 
hundred feet. The peculiar structure of the rocky 
banks, the music of the waters, the requisite inter- 
mingling of light and shade, the distant prospect of 
forest and mountain, make this spot one of the loveliest 
places of resort for the tourist to be found in the neigh- 
borhood. 

For the whole distance of the turnpike ride you are 
drawing nearer and nearer to the mountain fastnesses. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. HI 

and the great charm of the ride is that you have the full 
view of the mountains at all time. You gradually ap- 
proach an impenetrable mountain wall, which allows no 
outlet, save by the narrow thread, which winds around 
the flank and up to the brow of Mt. Washington. At 
every point, too, this Regal Mountain stands the monarch 
of the hills in the centre of his court. The whole chain 
of dependent peaks may be seen, from Clinton on the 
south to Madison on the north, with Clay, Jefferson, 
and Adams standing guard towards the east. 

The terminal station of the railroad is called Marsh- 
field. Besides the railroad buildings, there is a hotel 
here, at which some fifty guests can be accommodated, 
which has been erected since the railroad was opened. 
The railroad is nearly three miles long, and ascends 
3,625 feet, starting from a point 2,668 feet above tide- 
water. The maximum grade is 1,980 feet to the mile, 
or a little more than one foot in three, while the average 
is very nearly one foot in four. The construction of the 
road was commenced in 1866, and it was completed in 
1869. The whole cost of the road and equipment is not 
far from $150,000. The road is built in the most sub- 
stantial manner, of timber, interlaced and bolted, resting 
on the solid rock of the mountain side. Besides the 
usual rails, there is a centre rail of peculiar construction, 
to receive the motive power. It consists of two bars of 
iron, with connecting cross-pieces at a distance of every 
four inches. This rail may well be called " Jacob's 
Ladder," and thus preserve the memory of one of the 
steepest parts of the old pathway on the same location. 



112 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

A centre cog-wheel on the locomotive plays into this 
rail, and secures a sure and steady mode of ascent and 
descent. 

The locomotive, as it first comes out of the house, has 
the appearance of being ready to fall over. As soon as 
it commences the ascent it stands upright, the slant being 
given to it to secure more uniform action. The driving- 
wheel is geared into a smaller wheel, which connects 
directly with the crank. Four revolutions of the engine 
are required to make one of the driving-wheel, thus sac- 
rificing speed to power. The engine is not connected 
to the car, but simply pushes the car up the track. On 
the return it allows the car to follow it down at a slow 
rate of speed. 

To protect the train from accident, a wrought-iron dog 
constantly plays into notches on the driving-wheel, so 
that, if any part of the machinery gives way, the train 
is arrested where it is. There are also the usual fric- 
tion brakes, and in addition atmospheric brakes on each 
side of the car. These last alone are sufficient to stop 
the car, and hold it in any position. 

The cars are comfortable and easy, and the trip is made 
without danger or fatigue. The cars are provided with 
seats placed at an angle, which brings them nearly on a 
level on the ascent. They all face down the mountain. 
There is, however, an aisle in the car, and platforms at 
each end, so that views may be had from all directions. 

The fare up the mountain is $3 ; up and back $5, — 
down the mountain $3. Trunks are carried at a price 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 113 

determined by the size, hand-baggage only being car- 
ried free. 

Capt. John W. Dodge, the Superintendent of the Mt. 
Washington Railway Company, is always present at the 
hour for starting the trains, and generally makes the 
ascent. His genial pleasant countenance can be ac- 
cepted as a true index of his disposition. He takes 
great interest in the successful working of the road, and 
has been the superintendent since it was opened to the 
Summit. The tourist will find him ready and willing 
to explain any peculiarities of the construction of the 
road or of the manner of operating it. 

The time occupied by the ascent on the railroad is 
about an hour and a half. The engine has to stop sev- 
eral times on the way to take in water. At first start- 
ing, this method of travelling being, to say the least, 
novel, the attention is naturally directed to the manner 
in which you are gradually forced up hill. Too much 
time should not, however, be spent in observing the 
mechanism. Unlike the other roads, almost from the 
moment when you leave the depot, a series of views is 
spread out before you of unsurpassing loveliness. The 
elevation of the track, which is nowhere absolutely ou 
the ground, is sufficient to enable you to see over the tops 
of the trees and enjoy an uninterrupted view of all the 
country spread out at your feet. 

At first you look back upon the valley through which 

you have passed, and easily trace the windings of the 

turnpike. You catch an occasional glimpse of the river 

as it plays in and out of the forest. As you gain the 

8 



114 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

ascent the view widens, and Cherry Mountain, Jefferson, 
and a broad vista of plain and mountain breaks upon the 
view. Gradually the trees of the temperate zone are 
left behind, and the shrubs and flora of Labrador and 
Greenland make their appearance. You can soon, also, 
see over the south wall, which so jealously limited your 
vision as you drove up the valley. On reaching the 
main ridge between Clay and Washington, you have on 
the left of the track, facing up the mountain, the huge 
*' Gulf of Mexico," an immense amphitheatre or ravine, 
down which you can look for an almost sheer descent 
of a thousand feet. Here you come upon a view to the 
east, towards the ocean, and at the base of the mountain, 
in the Peabody Valley, is the Glen House. 

The train is now near the top, and the depot is in 
sight. We have already spoken of the view, so that it 
is not necessary to repeat the description here. The 
corporation is now erecting a more spacious building for 
a depot, which when completed will be also used as a 
hotel. 

The time occupied in the descent is less than is re- 
quired for the upward trip. Steam is not used, the 
atmospheric brakes being sufficient to regulate the speed. 

Crawford House to Profile House. 

This trip is performed in stages, which leave the 
Crawford House every morning about eight. The dis- 
tance is twenty-seven miles. Stages also leave for 
the Twin Mouutaiii nouse, ten miles distant, to 
connect with the cars 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 115 

Five miles from the Crawford House is the old Fabyan 
place, where the turnpike diverges towards Mt. Wash- 
ington. Here is to be built a large hotel, which will 
probably be opened for another season.* The view of 
the mountain range at this point is not to be overlooked. 
The scars on the side of Mt. Pleasant have been imag- 
ined to represent an Indian chief with tomahawk The 
lengthened scars themselves, a thousand feet in height, 
are at least worthy of notice. 

Grand as is this view we need not leave it with such 
reluctance as we should were we not to carry the pic- 
ture with us for hours, as we ascend the hills to Bethle- 
hem. There is a tradition that, OAving to some Indian 
curse, no buildings will ever remain here, the former 
hotels havinoj been burned. 



The White Mountain House, 

about half a mile farther on, is kept by Messrs. Kounse- 
ville and Colburn, It is a very pleasantly situated, and 
quiet" house in the midst of an open tract of country. 
In the rear is a fine view of the White Mountains, and 
in front, beyond the Ammonoosuc, rises the lofty range 
which connects the Great Notch with Franconia. This 
is an excellent starting-place for excursions along the 
Ammonoosuc. There are also many exceedingly inter- 
esting rambles in the neighborhood of this hotel, and 
many hills of moderate size, from which views of a 
great range are gained. 

* See Acldeuda. 



116 white mou^ttai^r guide. 

Lower Ammonoosuc Falls. 
At a short distance farther, on the left of the road, 
are the famous falls of the Ammonoosuc. This stream 
V6 said to be the wildest and most rapid of all the rivers 
of New Hampshire, falling more than a mile in its 
course of thirty miles from Mt. Washington to the 
Connecticut River. It has many cascades, some of 
which are higher than this, but none more attractive. 
Here the water issues from a forest of evergreens, and 
leaps down thirty feet over broad steps of granite. The 
rocks on each side seem laid in courses, as if by the 
hand of a mason. When the amount of water is large 
it rushes into the pool below with such force as to throw 
it into heaps several feet in height. This cascade 
unites the wilduess of nature with a close resemblance 
to the nice workmanship of art, in a most surprising 
and beautiful manner. It is so near the road that it is 
not necessary to leave the coach in order to enjoy its 
full effect, although one might pass several hours very 
pleasantly in a ramble along the banks of the river. 

The Twin Mountain House 

is about four miles from the turnpike gate. It is 
situated at the junction of the roads, from Whitefield 
and from the Profile House. It is just a convenient 
distance from the railroad station at the foot of Mt. 
Washington, and being the present terminus of the 
railroad, is a very convenient stopping place for 
those who design to leave by the cars in the morn- 
ing. 



WHITE MOUJ^TAJJT GUIDE. 117 

The House is owned and kept by the Messrs. Barron, 
who are now proprietors of the Crawford House. Dur- 
ing the two or three years that it has been open, it has 
established an excellent reputation and attracted a large 
number of guests. 

Ammonoosuc Bridge. 
After proceeding several miles with the Ammonoosuc 
on our right, we suddenly cross it by a strong wooden 
bridge. The history of the bridges which have been 
erected here, as narrated by Mr. Willey, is somewhat 
interesting. "When Bethlehem was first settled in 1790, 
under the name of Lord's Hill, Capt. Rosebrook cut a 
road from his house through the forest, about twelve 
miles, to the new settlement. A log bridge was thrown 
across the river, which was, however, soon washed away 
by the spring freshets. At last the newly formed town 
of Bethlehem voted, in 1800, to build a bridge at this 
place at a cost of $390. There was such a scarcity of 
provisions at this time that the workmen were forced 
to live on milk porridge. 

Bethlehem. 
Two or three miles, over gently rising grounds, brings 
us to Bethlehem, a beautiful airy village, about seven- 
teen miles from the Notch, famous for its view of the 
whole range of the AYhite Mountains. You feel a 
greater satisfaction in surveying them from this place 
than from any other point where the view is so com- 
prehensive. Towards the north-west are some noble 
white marble mountains in Vermont, appearing clothed 
in a garment of snow from base to summit. The whole 



118 WHITE MOUJVTjIIJ^ GUIDE. 

northern and western horizon is jagged with mountain 
summits, softening into beauty and grace in the mellow 
light of summer sunsets. Bethlehem is a place of great 
attraction for persons spending the summer in this 
region. There are several houses where board may be 
obtained at a reasonable rate. The Sinclair House, by 
Durgin and Randlett, is a large and comfortable hotel, 
occupying a prominent and commanding position. The 
whole village is so elevated above the valleys to the 
Notch, that the view from all parts of it is extensive 
and varied, while a short walk brings the observer into 
full view of the Franconia range on the south. 

First View of Franconia. 
From Bethlehem there are two roads to Franconia 
Notch. Whichever Ave take we must ascend a high 
and toilsome hill, but the view from the summit repays 
us for all our delay. This view, comprehending the 
whole of the grand Franconia range in front, with the 
head of Lafayette standing majestically above them all, 
and on the right the dark opening of the Notch, with 
long extent of valley and interval between is one of 
the finest views in the day's ride. It remains in sight 
for some time while you are descending the hill and 
crossing the valley of the south branch to the Ammo- 
noosuc. Then begins the slow ascent of the Notch. 
Winding through its shady ravines, along the west 
base of Bald Mountain, we come at last to the Profile 
House. 



PFHITE MOUJVTjIIJV GUIDE. 119 

Franconia Xotch and its Xetghborhood. 
The Franconia range of hills, though properly be- 
longing to the White Mountain range, is still so dis- 
tinct and peculiar in its character as to deserve a length- 
ened notice. The beauties of the surrounding scenery- 
entitle it to all the admiration ■which the tourist be?- 
stOAVs upon it. Indeed, by old habitues of the region, 
Franconia is considered the gem of the mountains. 
There is not the overpowering grandeur which belongs 
to the White Mountains, while the greater variety of 
interesting objects amply compensates for the absence 
of more stately scenes. The quiet beauty and the 
repose of nature in the Franconia Notch may well in- 
troduce the traveller to the higher sublimity beyond, or 
refresh him as he retires from the powerful influence 
which he has felt before the majesty of the Notch. 
There is a tranquillity in the former feeling, and a sense 
of relief in the latter, which prepares or soothes the 
mind. Here is rest ; here is comfort. Beneath the 
shadow of these solemn mountains the weary soul finds 
composure. Selfishness and worldliness are rebuked. 
The most thoughtless are hushed to reflection, and a 
better understanding of life grows up in the midst of 
Nature's grand instructions. We do not suppose our 
tourist is in quest of mere pleasure ; we believe him to 
be a better and nobler man than to spend his days thus. 
He is open to every good influence that will make life 
more rich, and beautiful, and fair. There is no better 
influence than that of which he will be sensible in the 
still retreat of Franconia. 



120 WHITE MOUJVT^IJ^ GUIDE. 



^ The Profile House, 

a new and large hotel, of the very best and most com- 
fortable accommodations, is situated in the immediate 
■^cinity of Echo Lake, Cannon Mountain, Eagle Cliff, 
The Profile, and Mount Lafayette. It is on a level 
plain, a few acres in area, in the bosom of the hills. 
It has two approaches : on the north, from Bethlehem 
and Littleton — on the south, from the Flume House and 
the Pemigewasset Valley. Of the approach from Lit- 
tleton we have elsewhere Avritten. From Bethlehem, 
over the road from Crawford's, the approach is some- 
times startling in its effect. The views shift with 
great rapidity ; at one time are wholly concealed, at an- 
other break forth upon the traveller with surprising 
abruptness. Going up the slow ascent of the hill east 
of Bethlehem, with the Mount Washington range be- 
hind, the Franconia mountains on the left, and all 
northern New Hampshire on the right, the landscape is 
most enchanting. One almost wishes the hill longer. 
The village of Bethlehem itself is most picturesquely 
situated, and commands a view of wide expanse. But 
beyond it is a hill tedious to climb, with scarcely a 
compensating scene to look upon, and one begins to 
wonder where the vaunted glories of the region are to 
be found. But on reaching the top of the hill a 
magnificent prospect stretches before him. Across the 



JVHITE MOUJ^TAI^r GUIDE. 121 

Franconia valley rise the lofty summits of Lafayette, 
with his seamed and scarred sides, and the kindred 
mountains standing like sentinels to guard the pass 
against profane intruders. Their irregularity is most 
picturesque, while, at the same time, they are most 
finely grouped. They stand out in most august pro- 
portions, relieved by the dark blue of the clear summer 
sky. We ride down the hill into the little village of 
Franconia, in a state of mingled admiration and awe. 
Then, entering the forest, we pass beneath its leafy 
arches to the rest and enjoyment of our temporary home. 
The Profile House, improved by successive enlarge- 
ments, is now excelled by no hotel in the State* The 
parlor wing, with a parlor 100 by 50 feet, contains 
many new rooms. The new dining-hall is a fine room, 
of about the same size as the parlor. The public rooms 
and hall are lighted with gas. The hotel is also sup- 
plied with bath rooms. About four hundred guests 
can now be accommodated in this hotel. During the 
heighth of the season, the spacious corridors and 
piazzas present a lively appearance. Two cottages for 
families have also been built just south of the house. 
Messrs. Taft and Greenleaf, the proprietors, have been 
80 long identified with the locality, that their reputa- 
tion, as well as the good name of the house, is. en- 
tirely independent of any praises of a guide book. If 
faithful attention, clean rooms, — such as Izaak Wal- 
ton loved, — a profuse table, and beauty of locality 



122 WHITE MOUJVT^IJV GUIDE. 

can furnish a desirable resting-place for the traveller, 
these are all to be found in this favored spot. The 
location of this hotel between the mountain peaks, the 
clear bracing air of the ^otch, and the pure water of 
the hills, combine in giving one an excellent appetite 
and good digestion. This hotel has long been a favor- 
ite tarrying place for those accustomed to spend their 
leisure time among the mountains, and every year only 
adds to its popularity. The American Telegraph Com- 
pany has an office in the hotel. 

Echo Lake. 
In the woods, to the north of the hotel, a short dis- 
tance from the road over which we have just travelled, 
lies embosomed Echo L.ajvE. It is a sheet of water 
of great depth and transparency, and, as it sleeps there 
in its secure repose, seems the very type of rest. All 
around rise the green hills of the region, Lafayette lift- 
ing his rocky summit high above them all. The setting 
is appropriate for this exquisite gem. One never wea- 
ries of the quiet scene. A little boat with paddles con- 
veys the passenger to the middle of the lake, and to 
the different points where the best views may be ob- 
tained. Here are the centres of the most marvellous 
echoes. The sounds of a tin horn, blown with skill, 
will be returned in oft-repeated notes like the sweetest 
music. The human voice, shouting distinctly, will be 
reechoed with wonderful effect, as though the invisible 
inhabitants of the hills vrere holding a colloquy with 
" the babbling gossip of the air." The report of a 
cannon fired on the shore Avill reverberate like peals of 



WHITE MOUJ^TAUV GUIDE. 123 

thunder among the fastnesses of the mountains. In 
the stillness of morning, or in the quiet of the evening 
at the sunset hour, the lake is the resort of those who 
best know and can appreciate the Avonders of the place. 
The wind is whist ; the waters sleep ; the mountains 
are silent ; the purple glow is on all the trees and rocks. 
Then is the time to wake the slumbering echoes, and 
hear the many voices that reply. He who has not 
visited this lovely spot at this bewitching time, does 
not understand half the magical, secret beauty which 
lingers around Echo Lake. 

Eagle Cliff. 
Almost directly overhanging the hotel, on the north, 
is Eagle Cliff. It is a huge, columnar crag, sepa- 
rated from the crest of the mountain, and rising per- 
pendicularly, with jagged rocks, seemingly ready to 
topple from its place in wide-spread ruin beneath. This 
precipitous cliff derives its name from the fact that it 
was chosen for an eyry by a pair of eagles several 
years ago. They were often to be seen circling around 
its summit, and looking down, as though with disdain, 
upon the gazing crowds below, who have invaded their 
solitude. But two or three years ago they were driven 
away by some over-curious explorers of their nests. 
No prouder position could be chosen for a habitation 
by this noble bird. It stands out in the picture a most 
prominent and majestic peak. Approached from the 
south, it is finely portrayed upon the background of 
the sky. A point about three fourths of a mile distant, 



124 WHITE MOU^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

upon the border of Ferrin's Pond, or Profile Lake, fur- 
nishes the finest view. Its lofty crags are distinctly 
seen, as though rising from a bed of deepest green, 
formed by the luxuriant birches and vines that attempt 
to clamber up its sides. At sunrise or sunset, when 
all is dark in the valley, the rosy light softens the rude 
outline, and it shines out in clear brightness above the 
mists below. As you sit on the piazza of the hotel 
the cliff looms before you in gigantic proportions, a 
study for the present, and a glorious memory for the 
future to recall. 

Profile Mountain. 

Directly opposite Eagle Cliff, on the south side of 
the Notch, rises Cannon, or, as we prefer to call it, 
Profile Mountain. The fprmer name is given on 
account of a supposed resemblance to a cannon which 
a rock upon its summit exhibits. The latter more 
appropriately belongs to it, since it bears upon the 
southern extremity of its crest the " Great Stone Face." 
The mountain is ascended by means of a footpath 
which seems to lead almost directly from the front of 
the hotel to the summit. 

The ascent is somewhat difficult, requiring about 
two hours of wearisome climbing. But the extended 
prospect at the end of the journey amply compensates 
all the toils of the way. The view from the platform 
of denuded rock above, down the valley of the Pemi- 
gewasset, surpasses description. Nothing more beauti- 
ful will be found in this region. The silvery stream, 



WHITE MOUJVTJlfJSr GUIDE. 125 

the qiiict forests, the verdant meadows, the placid lakes, 
the clustering villages along the winding road, unite in 
a picture of enchanting loveliness. The surrounding 
peaks, and the towering heights of "Washington and its 
peers, with the softly-swelling hills sloping away to the 
south, present all that one can imagine of the grand 
and of the beautiful in mountain scenery. A visit to 
Franconia is incomplete without the ascent of Profile 
Mountain. An outlay of a few dollars would complete 
an excellent saddle-path to its summit. 

Bald Mountain. 
There is, also, another pleasant mountain trip, even 
more immediately Avithin the reach of every one than 
the ascent of Profile Mountain. The carriage road to 
this summit is out of repair. But the distance from the 
hotel is only a mile and half, and the walk is by no 
means difficult. The path leaves the highway to the 
right, at the top of the hill, about a mile from the Profile 
House. This is now a favorite sunset view, and there 
is no other point, near the hotel, that will so amply repay 
one for the slight exertion required. From the sum- 
mit, you see spread out before in the foreground, the 
broad basin of the Franconia valley, with the Bethlehem 
hills and the peaks of northern New Hampshire and 
Vermont in the distance. Towards the south, you have 
a fine view of the Notch, with Profile Lake at your feet, 
and Lafayette towering up above you toward the east, 
whose rugged rocks, glowing in the evening sunshine, 
change to purple as the shadows of Mt. Cannon creep 



126 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

up from the valley. Carriages can be had, if desired, 
in which you can ride to within half a mile of the 
summit. 

Cascade. 
Immediately behind the Profile House there is a 
cascade, which, from the facility with which it may be 
reached by the tourist, deserves our notice. A path, 
entering the woods in the rear of the old Lafayette 
House, and following the aqueduct which supplies the 
hotel with water, conducts, in a short and pleasant 
walk, to a brook, which, when swollen by a recent rain, 
presents a succession of cascades that will amply repay 
a visit. The bed of the brook lies for a long distance 
over a shelving ledge of sufficient extent to impress one 
adequately with the gigantic framework of our granite 
hills. This feature of the scene, together with the 
charming glimpses of Echo Lake and the surrounding 
mountains which are caught in the ascent, will render 
a visit to this cascade pleasant at any time. At one 
point a most exquisite view is obtained of the northern 
part of the Ammonoosuc valley. But only after a 
heavy rain, or amid melting snows, is this cascade 
seen to advantage, and one will often desire some such 
arrangement for displaying its capabilities as exists at 
the Catskill Falls. The best time to make a visit to 
this spot is at the close of day, before sunset, when, 
through the openings of the wood, the surrounding 
scenery appears in all its beauty. The view of Echo 
Lake and of the hills and woodland beyond, reaching 
far towards the Ammonoosuc, is of such exquisite 



WHITE MOUJ^TAI^N- GUIDE, 127 

beauty that it alone will repay one for a visit to the 
cascades. 

The great marvel and pride of this region is the 

Profile. 
As we walk down the road to the south of the hotel, 
we soon come to a rude bench by the wayside, and, 
attracted by the guide-board above it, inscribed with 
the single, simple word, "■ Profile," as we direct our 
eyes to the point whidPit indicates, the huge face, with 
all its features thoroughly delineated, stands out in 
bold outline before our sight. There it is, a colossal, 
completely symmetrical profile, looking down upon the 
valley from its lofty height, perfectly distinct and clear. 
The tourist may possibly think that this, Hke other 
wonderful stories of which veracious guide-books tell, 
may be a myth, and that the similarity may exist only 
in the fancy of the writer. But no ! This time, at 
least, he will acknowledge that there is no delusion. 
Nature has carved out, with the most accurate chisel- 
ling, this astonishing sculpture. Every portion of the 
face is there upon the solid mountain steep. There is 
the stern, projecting, massive brow, as though stamped 
with the thought and wisdom of centuries. The nose 
is straight, finely cut, and sharply outlined. The thin, 
senile lips are parted, as though about to utter the 
thunders of majestic speech. The chin is well thrown 
forward, with exact proportionate length, betokening 
the hard, obstinate character of the " Old Man," who 
has faced, Avith such unmoving steadiness, the storms 



128 WHITE MOU^TTAIJ^ GUIDE. 

of ages. The Sphinx of the Desert must acknowledge 
its inferiority to this marvellous face upon the moun- 
tain. When seen in the morning, as the mists float up 
from the valley beneath and along its ponderous fea- 
tures, it looms into larger proportions still, and with 
the heavy gray beard, which sometimes settles upon 
its chin, and down its breast, it seems like the face of 
some hoary patriarch of antiquity. Some one hag 
made the remark that " as men are accustomed to 
hang out before their shop dooi^Pcertain signs to desig- 
nate their respective occupations, so here God has 
sculptured this great Face to show that in these regions 
he makes men." 

"It is not advisable," says one of the admirers of 
the Old Man of the Mountain, " to go to take your 
first look at him when the sun lights up the chasm of 
his granite cheek and the cavernous mystery of his 
bent brow. Go to him when, in the solemn light of 
evening, the mountain heaves up from the darkening 
lake its vast wave of lu^curiant foliage. Sit on one of 
those rocks by the roadside, and look, if you can, with- 
out awe, at the Granite Face, human in its lineaments, 
supernatural in its size and position, 
weird-like in its shadowy mystery, but 
its sharp outline wearing an expres- 
sion of mortal sadness, that gives it 
the miost fascinating interest." The 
view in the margin is an exact repre- 
sentation of the Profile alone, as it 
appears to the observer. It was doubt- 




WHITE MOUJ^T^IJV GUIDE. 129 

less an object of veneration to the aboriginal in- 
habitants. Various traditionary tales are yet extant 
respecting the superstitious homage once paid to it by 
the Indian tribes who frequented the locality o Relics 
of their life, and singular utensils of a former genera- 
tion, have been found uc ir it. To the whites, however, 
it has been little known till within the last forty years. 
In the early part of the present century the road thai 
passes along this Avay was laid out, and in clearing the 
land of the trees that impeded the path the Profile was 
discovered. Since that time it has been an object of 
the most absorbing interest. The genius of Hawthorne 
has embalmed it in our literature, and his story of 
"The Great Stone Face" can only be read apprecia- 
tively beneath its shadow. We give a view of the 
" Old Man," engraved from a photograph. 

To those wdio are curious in exploration, the oppor- 
tunity is easily improved of ascending by a footpath 
across the summit of the mountain to the point above 
the profile. It has been ascertained that the height of 
the "Old Man" is very nearly fifteen hundred feet 
above the level of the little lake below it, and that the 
length of the face i3 from sixty to eighty feet. In 
the many confficts with the elements wdiich it has 
endured, it has been roughened and scarred. But from 
the road no such appearance is presented, except 
through a telescope, and the face appears fair and 
smooth. The precipice, of which it forms the extrem- 
ity, is not unlike the palisades of the Hudson in appear- 
ance. It extends for nearly two miles along the escarp- 
9 



130 



HHITE JHOUjYTjIIJV GUJDE. 







ment of the mountaiu, and is a prominent part of the 
scenery of the section. The Profile itself undergoes 
many changes, according to the point of observation. 
It changes from its severe facial outline to a jagged and 
apparently shapeless mass of rocks, or to a face Avith a 
flat forehead, or with a huge Roman nose, or to the 
unmeaning and retreating countenance of some wild 
animal. It is only at the place where the guide board 
is erected that the Profile is to be most distinctly seen. 
One can spend an hour or two no more profitably than 
by gazing upon its fascinating and wonderful linea- 



WHITE MOUJVTjiIJ\r GUIDE. 131 

ments, and he will return to look upon it once more, 
that it may be the last remembrance, ere he bids fare- 
well to this delightful spot. 

Profile Lake. 

Immediately below the Face, as though Nature 
would provide for her creation an appropriate mirror, 
nestles the beautiful sheet of water known as Ferrin's 
Pond. Why not call it by a better and more appro- 
priate name ? Let it be baptized Profile Lake ; or, 
if one desires a more fanciful title, The Old Man's 
Mirror. The more prosaic call it The Old Man's 
Washbowl ! By whatever name it may be called, no 
appellation will ever detract from or add to its simple 
loveliness. It lies there, surrounded by rich, rolling 
ibrests, and above it the precipitous mountain. Its 
crystal depths reflect the overhanging trees, and its 
bright expanse smiles joyously in the sunlight. The 
very finest trout live in its waters — as though only 
the choicest and most delicate of fish were suited to 
inhabit such a pure abode. We cannot help thinking 
how the Greek love of the beautiful would have peopled 
all this region with the creations of its sacred mythologyo 
Even the cold fancy of Occidental nature warms beneath 
the genial influence, and breaks forth in the most de- 
monstrative admiration. 

Mt. Lafayette 
is twelve hundred feet below Mt. Washington in height, 



132 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 

and the view from its summit is thought by many 
to equal that from its rival's crest. A good footpath 
leads up its rocky sides, and the persevering lover of 
Nature, who is not afraid to make exertion, and is 
willing to expend his strength, will be most abundantly 
rewarded for his labors. Horses are kept in readiness 
for the ascent of this lofty peak, at the stable at the 
base of the mountain. Sojourners at the hotel, by re- 
cording their names, will be called for, carried to tlie 
stable, and furnished with horses and guides, at an ex- 
pense of $3.00 each. The ascent and return occupy 
about five hours.* 

Entering the woods from the road, about two and a 
half miles below the Profile House, the ascending path 
immediately commences. Near the point of divergence 
once stood the Lafayette House, a comfortable hotel, 
which received its due share of patronage. It was de- 
stroyed by fire in the spring of 1861, and the ruins of 
the burned edifice lie scattered about the place. From 
this spot, for a few miles, the ascent is somewhat steep 
and difficult, leading up the side of the mountain. The 
thick forest, vocal with the songs of woodland birds, 
overhangs the way, rendering the ride an agreeable ex- 
perience. Emerging from the Avoods, upon the bare 
rock, opposite to, but higher than the Profile Mountain, 
one can look doAvn into the mouth of the Notch upon 
the plateau on which the Profile House is situated, and 
out into the valley of the south branch of the Ammo- 
nooRHC beyond. The northern view is, from this point, 
delightful, and in a clear day exhibits a beautiful pano- 
* Sec Addenda. 



WHITE MOUJVTjilJ^ GUIDE. 133 

rama of river, plain, village, and surrounding hills. 
The path now strikes off to the right towards the summit, 
which is in plain sight for the remainder of the way. 
The same phenomena of vegetation appear here as 
upon Mount Washington — the stunted trees, the alpine 
flowers, the mosses clinging to the rocks. Still the path 
winds gently on, approaching the summit by a long, 
but not wearisome ascent. 

At last the goal is reached, and comfortable shelter 
is found in a house erected in that lonely spot for the 
accommodation of visitors. After a momentary rest, 
the wide prospect invites the eye. The southern valley 
of the Pemigewasset opens its beauties, showing its 
charming contour for a distance of forty miles, as far 
as Plymouth. On the east, Washington rears his im- 
perial head, Avith his attendant range. North-east- 
wardly, pointed Katahdin cleaves the air, and the white 
hills of Stratford gleam in the north. Passing around 
the horizon, the eye rests admiringly upon the softened 
outline of northern New Hampshire and Vermont, 
the rounded summits of the Green Mountains, the 
sloping country of the south-west, broken by Monadnock 
and Kearsarge. Directly beneath the eye are the Pro- 
file, Echo Lake, — like a crystal gem in its emerald set' 
ting, — the pleasant farms of Lisbon and Landaff ; whilp 
a little farther yet, as it were nestling around its base, 
arc the villages of Littleton and Bethlehem, and farther 
still, Weils River, and the towns in the Connecticut 
Valley. Altogether, it is a view more beautiful, in 
some respects, though it may be less grand and majestic. 



134 WHITE juoujvtjiijv guide. 

than that from Washington. Here, indeed, as Bryant 
sings of Monument Mountain, — 

* * * "Thou Shalt not look 
Upon the green and rolling forest tops, 
And down the secrets of tlie glens 

And streams that, with their bordering thickets, strive 
To hide their windings. Tliou shalt gaze, at once. 
Here on white villages, and tilth, and herds. 
And swarming roads ; and there on solitudes 
That only hear the torrent, and the wind, 
And eagle's shriek. * * * The scene 
Is lovely round ; a beautiful river there 
Wanders amid the fresh and fertile meads, 
The Paradise He made unto himself. 
Mining the soil for ages. On each side 
The fields swell upward to the hills ; beyond, 
Above the hills, in the blue distance, rise 
The mountain columus with which earth props heaven." 

There is upon the mountain, located on one of its 
most inaccessible points, a strange-looking stone, of 
large size and unusual form. It was named by those 
who discovered it, " The Altar," from a fancied resem- 
blance which they discerned to the old Runic remains 
of a similar character. The mountains have always 
been sacred places. Olympus has its classic fame as 
the seat of Jove ; Sinai, Horeb, and Carmel have their 
divine associations ; Olivet is held in alTectionate ven- 
eration, as there seem to linger, even yet, among its 
wooded heights, the accents of the Saviour's voice of 
prayer. Lafayette might well awe the rude wor- 
shippers of the forest and the wild, and teach them of 
the presence of the Great Spirit. 

Besides these attractions immediately about the Pro- 



WHITE MOU^T^IJ^ GUIDE. 135 

iile House, there are others in the Valley of the Notch, 
and within easy reach, which the traveller must not 
fail to visit, unless he would render his tour incomplete. 

The Trout House 

is about a mile south of the hotel, where several hundreds 
of this beautiful fish are kept for breeding purposes. 
The fish are nearly all in the house and have become 
quite tame. 

Walker's Falls 

are not much visited, but are not the less attractive on 
that account. Half a mile below the clearing, where the 
bridle-path up Lafayette begins, a mountain brook 
crosses the road. By following up this, or by striking 
into the woods a little earlier will be found, after a walk 
of half a mile, the first of the falls to which this name is 
given. As the quantity of water is never very large," 
and the perpendicular descent less than in many other 
mountain streams, these falls will doubtless be over- 
looked by many. But 

'* In the wood's dark coolness, 
"Where the path grows rougher and more steep, 
Where the trees stand thick in leafy fulness, 
And the moss lies green in shadows deep," — 

is one of the most picturesque of the mountain cascades. 
Were the water away, you would see a regular succes- 
sion of stone steps extending across the whole breadth 
of the bed of the stream. For a distance of about thirty 



136 WHITE MOUJVT^JJ\r GUIDE. 

• 

feet the water glides over these, dissolving into spray, 
in which a rainbow is almost always to be seen as you 
stand at the base. But clambering through the woods, 
you stand at the head of this cascade, and now, imme- 
diately above you, the water rushes down a descent of 
not less than fifty feet. The fall is irregular, being 
broken here and there by the huge blocks of granite, 
against which the water dashes with a rage which is 
lost in foam. 

Half a mile farther on there is a longer and more 
picturescjue fall. It descends at one leap a distance of 
abou!; sixty feet, while above this, too, there are long 
and tumultuous slides over the rocks which tenant all 
the liill-sideSo The sides of the brook are of precipitous 
rocks, somewhat resembling those of the Flume, though 
not so hish nor so contracted. A forenoon or an after- 
noon will suffice ior the ramble, which will be found 
exceedingly satisfactory. 

Proceeding another mile to the south, we reach 

The Basin. 
The waters of the Pemigewasset, flowing from Pro- 
file Lake, after tumbling in many a beautiful cascade 
over the rocks that lie in their course, find their way, 
with many meanderings, to this point near the road- 
side. Here they fall over a rocky ledge, a few feet in 
height, into a deep hollow in the solid granite. The 
diameter of this rocky basin, formed by the continual 
action of the wate? and mingled stones and bowlders 
from above, is about thirty feet in its shortest width, 



WHITE MOUJ\rT^IJ\r OUIDE. 137 

and forty feet in its longest. Its circumference is not 
far from sixty feet. Its depth is of such proportions, 
— ordinarily of fifteen feet, — as to form a by no 
means sliallow bowl, which is always filled with cold, 
pure, and pellucid water. On one side the rocks jut 
ever the mimic depths, forming a dam for the flowing 
stream, thus producing the most exquisite of waterfalls. 
The embankment surrounding it is covered, in the 
proper season, with green mosses and sw^eet flowers, 
with their delicate bells 

" Tolling their perfume on the passing air." 
At the other extremity, where the delivered waters, 
free from their temporary imprisonment, make their 
way out, singing as they go, is a fissure in the rock, 
forming another little waterfall. Upon one side is a 
peculiar conformation of the granite, which, by a slight 
stretch of the fancy, can be said to resemble a titanic 
leg and foot, scooped out and polished by the ever- 
flowing current. As you look down into these trans- 
parent waters, the bed of the basin can be distinctly 
seen, so fair and clear is their emerald purity. One 
is almost tempted to fling aside his outer garments and 
plunge into this luxurious and delicious bath. It is 
certainly fit for the ablutions of a goddess. There is 
a peculiar and almost magical charm about the basin, 
which enchains you to its margin, and will not let you 
go free. You are obliged at last to tear yourself away, 
with many regrets that the time of your sojourn amid 
these beautiful haunts of Nature is so brief. But 
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever." 



138 WHITE moujvtjiijv guide. 

and your recollection will often recur to these distant 
scenes, as you live over again, in delighted memory, 
the joys of other days. 

Cascades. 
A rude bridge of logs is thrown across the brook 
at the outlet of the Basin, more for purposes of con- 
venience than as an enhancement of the beauty of the 
spot. Crossing this, and following up the path for 
about two hundred rods, one discovers a succession 
of cascades of the most exquisite loveliness. The 
path is not very well worn, but can be easily traced. 
The tourist must follow it to its end, and he will 
pronounce this to be one of the most enchanting 
places in the region. The cascades show an infinite 
variety of beautiful forms, and end at last in a water- 
fall through a narrow cleft in the rocks of the hillside, 
of twenty or thirty feet in height. The banks of the 
stream are lined Avith the richest foliage, and open- 
ings among the trees disclose at intervals the rugged 
sides of Lafayette. The majority of travellers do not 
explore this region, but are contented with a passing 
glance at the Basin, and thereby lose almost the finest 
portion of the scenery. The best way to enjoy these 
places is to ramble about at one's own sweet will, 
and meet with surprises at every step, as Nature pre- 
sents her pictures. Let no one forget to examine 
the course of the little stream now before him. He 
will find all along its way the most numerous objects 
to give him pleasure and satisfaction. 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 139 

A mile or two farther, and we reach the 

Flume House. 
No site can be more full of beauty than that which 
is occupied by this hotel. Directly in front is Mt. Lib- 
erty, with its fancied resemblance to the profile of 
George Washington, closing the view of the " forest 
primeval," with its shades of rich green foliage, its quiet 
groves, and its soft and pleasant paths. On the north 
is the picturesque Notch, with all its surroundings, in 
bold outline. From the southern piazza, the whole 
Pemigewasset valley is in sight, unequalled for the 
variety which the wide prospect exhibits. No one can 
sit on this piazza at the close of day, to watch the glories 
of the sunset, and note the charming effects produced on 
" hill and dale, and pleasant intervale," without rejoic- 
ing in the good fortune which led him to make the 
Flume House his temporary home. The hotel, though 
having rooms for only forty guests, is new and commodi- 
ous. It is kept by the proprietors of the Profile House 
and a hotel is now open on this site for the first time for 
several years. 

The Flume and the Cascades. 
In the immediate neighborhood of the Flume House 
are the three chief remaining objects of interest at 
the Franconia mountains. These are the Flume, the 
Cascade, and the Pool. The former is in a south- 
easterly direction from the hotel, about three quarters 
of a mile distant. A good road leads to the lower 



140 WHITE MOUJVTAIJV GUIDE. 

part of the Cascade below the Flume. Thence, a 
footpath leads up the course of the stream. Cross- 
ing and recrossing at intervals, clambering up the 
sides of steep rocks, again following the bed of the 
stream itself, one finds at every forward movement 
something to admire. The Cascade is a continuous 
fall — a sheet of molten silver, on the smooth and pol- 
ished rock — of more than six hundred feet. The 
descent is very gradual, with occasional abruptness. 
With the murmur of its waters in the ear, and its 
marvellous beauty in the eye, we ascend to the Flume 
itself. No more wild and striking view can be im- 
agined. For seven or eight hundred feet or more the 
stream pours its volume along a rocky bed, which 
breaks it up into numberless waterfalls, between two 
mural precipices, that lift themselves on either side, 
crowned with the abundant foliage of the forest. The 
height of these Avails is from sixty to seventy feet. 
The Avidth betAveen them is a general average of tAventy 
feet, except at the upper end. Here the Avails ap- 
proach each other. Suddenly contracting to about 
ten feet, they hold, suspended betAveen them, about 
midway up their sides, a huge boAAdder of granite. 
So nicely is it adjusted, and so slight appears its 
hold, that one Avould think the gentlest touch suffi- 
cient to push it from its resting-place into the ravine 
beloAV. By Avhat process it has fallen into its present 
position — indeed, in AA'hat manner this remarkable 
fracture of the rock has taken place — is a puzzle 
for scientific heads. Its presence greatly adds to the 



WHITE MOUJ^T^IJ\r GUIDE. 



141 



wildness of the scene. We are content with that, and 
do not care to speculate about its cause. In general, ■ 
one can follow the stream through this narrow gorge, 
— not Avithout trepidation as he passes beneath the 
suspended mass, — and, by climbing the rocky heights, 
can obtain a capital view from above. The trunk of 
a tree lies across the chasm, forming a temporary and 
precarious bridge. We would suggest to the propri- 
etors of the hotels to fell one or more trees, and give 
a safer foothold to those adventurers who are desirous 
of seeing all the wonders of the place. In the au- 
tumn, when the forests are rich in purple, crimson, and 




142 WHITE J\IOUJ^TjlIJ\r GUIDE. 

gold, or in tlie winter, when the ravine is filled with 
snow, and icicles hang from the cliffs, and the little 
stream bursts through its partial confinement, the scene 
is one of great grandeur. In the luxuriance of sum- 
mer it is more fresh and glowing, the verdure of the 
woods relieving the nakedness of the rocks. In all 
seasons it is a place for study, for reflection, and de- 
light. 

The scene most forcibly suggests to one the follow- 
ing lines from Shelley's Cenci : — 

" But I remember, 
Two miles on this side of the fort, the road 
Crosses a deep ravine ; 'tis rough and narrow, 
And winds with short turns down the precipice ; 
And in its depth there is a mighty rock, 
Which has, from unimaginable years, 
Sustained itself with terror and with toil 
Over a gulf, and with the agony 
"With which it clings, seems slowly coming down ; 
Even as a wretched soul hour after hour 
Clings to the mass of life ; yet, clinging, leans, 
And, leaning, makes more dark the dread abyss 
In which it fears to fall : beneath this crag, 
Huge as despair, as if in weariness, 
The melancholy mountain yawns — below. 
You hear but see not an impetuous torrent 
Raging among the caverns, and a bridge 
Crosses the chasm ; and high above there grow, 
"With intersecting ti'unks, from crag to crag. 
Cedars, and yews, and pines, whose tangled hair 
Is matted in one solid roof of shade 
By the dark ivy's twine. At noonday here 
'Tis twilight, and at sunset blackest night." 

Returning from the Flume, we find the path to the 



WHITE MOU^PTmj^ GUIDE. 143 



Pool, 
directly in front of the hotel, leading straight into the 
woods. A walk of three quarters of a mile, beneath 
the overhanging branches, brings us to this famous and 
wonderful formation. A deep excavation, as though 
hewn by human hands, in the granite, holds the waters, 
which enter by a cascade from the upper, and escape 
through an opening in the mass of rocks at the lower 
extremity. The width of the Pool is about a hundred 
and fifty feet ; its depth about forty feet. From the 
brink of the wall above to the surface below, the dis- 
tance is very nearly one hundred and fifty feet. It is 
a place of the most wondrous attraction. It may not 
have the charm of the Basin and the Cascades, but it 
is more secluded, and the sight of it is a sufficient 
return for the toils of the way, if toils they may be 
called. The rambling wood-path, and the stroll along 
its pleasant way, can never be toilsome to the true lover 
of Nature, even though so worthy an object of admi- 
ration as is the Pool were not at its termination. An 
old enthusiast, who appears to live in a boat of some- 
what novel construction, upon the waters of this retired 
Pool, will, for a small gratuity, give any one who de- 
sires it a ride in his ark-like dwelling, and will pro- 
pound a theory of creation not found in standard 
authorities. He has also constructed a path from the 
Pool to the Flume, which much shortens the distance 
between the tM^o places, but which is somewhat diffi- 
cult, though not wholly impracticable, to ladies. 



144 WHITE MOUJ^T^IJ^ GUIDE. 



Georgianna Falls. 



About two miles below tlie Flume House, a path 
leads the tourist into the woods, to an object of ex- 
quisite beauty. A small farm-house stands upon the 
side of the Plymouth road, through the yard of Avhich 
the way is taken directly to the banks of a small brook 
that empties into the Pemigewasset. Following up 
this brook into the clefts of the mountain that rises 
above it, there will soon be found a series of the most 
charming cascades. As the adventurous traveller 
pushes on through the forest, now over the surface of 
the rock, and now upon the soft, green bank, the cap- 
tivated eye witnesses the loveliest landscape views, 
through the openings of the trees, to be found in this 
quarter. For nearly a mile the cascades continue to 
pour along their silvery flood. Resolutely proceeding, 
the tourist will at length arrive at a waterfall of larger 
magnitude than any previously discovered among these 
mountains. For a hundred or a hundred and fifty 
feet the water falls sheer down the precipice, through 
the mountain gorge. To one looking up, it seems as 
though it came from some perennial spring upon the 
summit that was pouring down its inexhaustible sup- 
ply of never-failing water. From the top of the fall 
a view of the fertile meadows of the Pemigewasset 
may be seen, of indescribable beauty. 

The accommodating and obliging guide, who may be 
found at the farm-house already mentioned, will show 
to the tourist a beautiful little sheet of water in one of 



WHITE MOUJVrjSfJ\r GUIDE. 145 

the hollows of the rock, which is called " The Mirror.'* 
It is described by those Avho have seen it in extrava- 
gant terms of admiration, while its surroundings are 
of the most lovely and charming character. 

The place was visited for the first time by a party 
of gentlemen in September, 1858, and the name 
'' Georgianna " was given to the falls, with all the 
ceremonies usual upon such festive occasions. The 
honor of discovery is disputed by a party of students 
from Harvard College, who gave the name of "Har- 
vard Falls" to tlie beautiful cascade, doubtless with 
similar ceremonies. Let no one leave the Franconia 
Mountains without a visit to these falls, however 
named. 

Having now completed the circuit of the mountain 
region, the traveller may find conveyance to reach the 
cars at Littleton, and return home by any of the vari- 
ous routes hereafter described. Or he may proceed 
through the lovely valley of the Pemigewasset to 
Plymouth, and thence by cars to Boston, visiting 
Lake Winnipesaukee on the way. 
10 



146 white moujk-tjlijv guide. 

Lake Winnipesaukee. 

Before proceeding to the account of routes, we 
will give a brief description of Lake Winnipesaukee, 
as it is usually visited on the way to or from the 
Mountains, and may be approached from different 
directions. 

The lake lies in the two counties of Carroll and 
Belknap, and is very irregular in form. At the west 
end it is divided into three large bays ; at the north is 
a fourth ; and at the east end there are three others. 
Its general course is from north-west to south-east. 
From one extreme end to the other the distance is not 
far from twenty-five miles. The width varies from 
one to seven miles. The towns of Moult onborough, 
Wolfborough, Tuftonborough, Centre Harbor, Mere- 
dith, Gilford, and Alton lie upon its borders, while 
from the high land of more distant towns fine views 
can be obtained of its placid waters. 

The waters of the lake descend four hundred and 
seventy-two feet in finding their way to the Atlantic. 
A rapid river of the same name with that of the lake, 
over which the railroad passes at Sanbornton Bridge, 
serves as its outlet to the Merrimack. The waters of 
Lake Winnipesaukee are remarkably clear, so that 
their finny inhabitants can be seen with great distinct- 
ness playing among the stones at the depth of many 
feet. The fish, of which there is a great variety, can 
frequently be caught at the steamboat wharves. The 
*' oldest inhabitants," who know the haunts " where 



WHITE MOU^TTAIJV GUIDE. 147 

fish do congregate," can convoy you to rare sport. 
There are several places about the lake where, for 
about two weeks, large numbers of smelts can be caught. 
Then all disappear, and none are seen till the recur- 
rence of the same season. Formerly, before so many 
dams obstructed their course, the shad came up here 
from the sea, to leave their spawn in the shallow bays. 
An effort is being made, by the erection of fish-ways 
at the dams, to restore their ancient privileges. 

Lake Winnipesaukee is a mountain lake. Yet it 
lacks almost all those wild, rough features of mountain 
scenery which usually characterize inland waters in 
mountainous regions. The mountains rise on all sides, 
but the shore, seen from the distance, is comparatively 
smooth and level. The islands, far from being pre- 
cipitous and rocky, are covered with verdure, and seem 
to float like fairy barks upon the broad lake-mirror. 
The lake is usually approached in the calm and still- 
ness of the noon-day sun. The spirit of repose, inci- 
dent upon the hour and upon the escape from the hot, 
dusty cars, harmonizes with the green foliage of the 
islands and the quiet surface of the water. By and 
by, soon after starting, a mild, balmy breeze just ruf- 
fles the surface of the lake, and, giving yourself up to 
its genial influences, you no longer wonder at the 
Indian admiration which gave it the name of " The 
beautiful water in a high place," or, " The Smile of 
the Great Spirit," as some maintain. 

The route by way of this lake is the finest ap- 
pioach to the White Hills. Here is a vast autecham- 



148 WHITE MOUXTALX GUIDE. 

ber, the entraDce liall, from "wliich you look up 
through the valley of the Saco to the towering peaks 
of the Mountains, Yet neither this, nor the impres- 
sion of lofty mountain scenery, constitutes the charm of 
the lake view. It consists rather in the feeling of 
quiet and repose, the freedom from the care and tur- 
moil of busy life, engendered by the exquisite harmo- 
ny of the outlines of the surrounding mountains, seen 
either from the lake or from the hotels on the shores, 
and the inviting aspect of the little islands which every 
where glisten like emeralds on its bosom. The ever- 
varying hues of the landscape, running through the 
whole scale from sunrise to sunset, transforming the 
lake into an opal, in the eyes of Mr. King, are sources 
of perpetual delight. While among the mountains one 
is constantly incited to activity and to rambles requir- 
ing exertion ; the tendency here is to enjoy the beauty 
of the scene while at rest, depending for variety iqDon 
the eifects of sunlight and cloud. 

But not at all times does the lake thus calmly receive 
its visitors. Geo. Wm. Curtis thus describes a visit to 
the lake, and a passage through a thunder-storm : — 

'■' Let it be a moist, even showery, summer day in 
late July or early August, with heavy, dark clouds 
rolling and breaking, fringing w4th silver rays and 
shrouding in soft, evanescent mists the tops and sides of 
distant hills, while towards the west and south there are 
cool, sweet, tranquil depths of blue air above, and a 
sparkling, opaline sheen upon the shore. As you leave 
the "Weirs in that neat, and pretty, and comfortable little 



WHITE MOUJVTJlJJV GUIDE. 149 

steamer, the Lady of the Lake, the green headlands 
near by will be brilliant with sunshine, but Red Hill 
will be muffled with solemn cloud, peering gravely 
through at times, and Ossipee will be utterly obscured, 
while on Belknap, at your right, the ground will seem 
to heave and roll, — so suddenly shifting are the dark 
cloud -shadows and bursts of sun. As you emerge 
upon the broader lake, far to the south the happy 
regions lie, calm skies and rosy peace. But as you 
head northward towards Centre Harbor, alluring coves 
and bays open and stretch away on every side to dusky 
mist and storm. A thick black cloud envelops Red 
Hill, shuts out the friendly shore, leaves only the nearer 
quiet w^ooded points, while the lightning darts, the 
thunder booms angrily, sullenly haunting the winding 
bottoms of the hills, or cracks and rattles sharply over- 
head, and the freshening breeze, that foreruns rain, 
scuds darkling and sparkling over the water, nearer 
and nearer, until with colder blast and deeper roar the 
serried legions of the storm dash furious on, and we are 
instantly enveloped in rattling, blinding rain, and fierce, 
chill gusts that extinguish the shores. 

" The tremendous rain streams by, and close before 
you lie the little white church and spire, and the clus- 
ter of neat houses that make the village of Centre 
Harbor, upon the very shore of the lake, and at the 
foot of hills that rise backward to heavy evergreen sides 
and summits ; while at the right, as you face the village, 
Red Hill emerges, dark, and cool, and crisp, with even 
foliage, from the cloud that clings along the heights, 



150 WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ OVIDE. 

but ravels into shreds of mist around the base and up 
the dells." 

There are two steamers that ply upon the lake ; two 
points at which it may be approached from the south, 
and two points of departure for the mountains. The 
steamers are the Lady of the Lake and Mt. Washington. 
Both are new. The former runs between the Weirs, 
Centre Harbor, and Wolfborough, and the latter be- 
tween Alton Bay, Wolfborough, Centre Harbor, and 
Meredith Village. The Boston, Concord, and Montreal 
Railroad connects with the former at Weirs, and the 
Boston and Maine with the latter at Alton Bay. 
Coaches leave Centre Harbor for Ossipee daily, con- 
necting at that point with the Great Falls and Conway 
Railroad for Conway. At Wolfborough, there is a 
rail connection with the same road by the Wolfborough 
branch. 

At the Weirs we embark in the new steamboat 
Lady of the Lake, under the charge of Captain A, 
E. BiCKFORD. Near the Weirs, at the head of the 
river, had we time, we might see the old *' Endicott 
Rock," with its quaint and curious carving. It was 
discovered a few years since by accident as a dam was 
building. It is supposed to be a monument or boundary 
mark made by two surveyors sent out by Gov. Endi- 
cott of Massachusetts. 

But the tinkling of the signal-bell soon gives us 
warning that Ave are to leave the wharf. We wind our 
way through the numberless islands that crowd our 



WHITE JUOUJVTjIIJV GUIDE. 151 

path. Red Hill now appears in sight, and then is lost 
behind an intervening island. An opening strait gives 
you a view of Rattlesnake Island. The reptile after 
which the island is named is even now to be found here. 
None have been seen elsewhere about the lake for many 
years. Mt. Belknap or Gunstock is also to be seen on the 
right, and on the opposite quarter Ossipee rears its bare 
head. This mountain the tourist will find difficulty in 
escaping. The road towards the Notch winds around 
its base, and not till a good part of it has been passed 
over on the Avay towards North Conway will the peak 
be fairly left behind. About three miles from the 
Weirs we reach Bear Island, which is nearly four miles 
long. Upon one of these numerous islands there re- 
sided, in 1851, " solitary .and alone," an aged spinster, 
familiarly known as " Aunt Dolly." In this wild and 
romantic spot, almost entirely cut off from the world, 
she lived in hermit independence, taking care of her 
corn, her few sheep, and occasionally rowing her own 
skiff to the main laud. At length, after a sail of ten 
miles, we reach Centre Harbor. It is of this trip 
that Edward Everett speaks as follows : "I have been 
something of a traveller in our own country, — though 
far less than I could wish, — and in Europe have seen 
all that is most attractive, from the Highlands of Scot- 
land to the Golden Horn of Constantinople — from the 
summit of the Ilartz Mountains to the Fountain of 
Vaucluse ; but my eye has yet to rest on a lovelier 
scene than that which smiles around you as you sail 
from Weirs' hindins; to Centre Harbor." 



162 WHITE MOUJVTJlIJ^ GUIDE. 

Should the traveller have leisure to spend upon this 
beautiful lake, he cannot do better than continue his 
journey to Wolfborough. The distance from Centre 
Harbor is about twenty miles, and is usually accom- 
plished in two hours. For the first mile or two the 
course pursued is the same as that over which he has 
just passed. But he soon leaves the old path, and 
passes through a broader portion of the lake than that 
just traversed. It is a most delightful trip in a clear 
morning or pleasant evening. At sunset, particularly, 
and when the evening shades begin to prevail, is had 
the finest view of the distant mountains, with their ever- 
changing aspects. 

Alton Bay is the most southern point of the seven 
great bays of Winnipesaukee Lake. The hotel, depot, 
and steamboat wharf, constitute almost tlie only build- 
ings of tlje place. Should the tourist wi.sh for a quiet 
resting-place for a few days, Mr. O. C. Coffin, the land- 
lord of the hotel, will render him every assistance to 
while away his time. Board may be had here at the 
rate of $10.00 per week and upwards. There is an 
excellent livery stable connected with the hotel, and 
there are many pleasant drives in the vicinity. Among 
these may be mentioned Sharp's Hill, from which an 
admirable view of the lake can be had. Lougee 
Pond, about six miles distant, is noted for tame fish. 
The pleasantest excursion, however, is to the summit 
of Mt. Belknap, about ten miles distant. The fare for 
a party in a moiitatain wagon is $1.50 each. The 
excursion will occupy all of one day, and the delight 



WHITE JHOUJ\rTJlIJ\r GUIDE. 153 

will amply repay one for the time spent. If for no 
other purpose than this, one should arrange to spend a 
day at Bay View House, Alton Bay. 

The steamer Mt. Washington, is a new iron steamer 
built expressly for the Lake. It makes regular trips, 
connecting with the railroads at Alton Bay and Wolf- 
borough, and with the stages at Centre Harbor. The 
tourist will find Capt. A. Wiggin, formerly captain of 
the steamer Chocorua, a gentlemanly and agreeable 
commander. Gapt. Wiggin is thoroughly acquainted 
with the lake, having been long connected with the lake 
steamers. 

The distance from Alton Bay to Wolfborough is 
about ten miles, and to Centre Harbor about thirty 
miles, thus sailing nearly the entire length of the lake. 
In fact no one who visits the lake should fail to take a 
trip to Alton Bay, if he come by the other route ; nor 
should he fail to take the trip to the Weirs, if his 
first impressions are received by the Alton Bay route, 
as there are beauties of scenery, which should not be 
lost, peculiar to each. 

Alton Bay, originally christened " Merrymeeting 
Bay," seems entirely shut in by the hills which rise on 
each side, and by what, as you advance, proves to be 
an island in the distance. It is hardly necessary to do 
more than allude to the picturesque and varied scenery 
of this pleasant sail. The boat winds its way among 
the numerous islands, giving the traveller occasional 
glimpses of the distant ranges of mountains in the 



154 WHITE MOUJ^TJilJ>r GUIDE. 

north, as well as abundant opportunity to study the 
contour of the peaks upon the immediate borders of the 
lake. 

If it falls to the lot of the traveller to be near the 
lake on some bright moonlight evening, he should not 
fail to inquire if a moonlight excursion is to take place. 
These excursions are frequently made by parties from 
neighboring towns, who charter the boat for that pur- 
pose. 

The Island House 

is on Dimond Island, about equally distant from the 
Weirs, Wolfborough, and Alton Bay. The House, 
which is kept by Mr. Wiley, will accommodate about 
forty guests. The Lady of the Lake makes a daily 
stop here. Excursion parties usually stop here for 
dinner or supper, and for picnics. 

Wolfborough. 

The village of AVolfeborough is delightfully situated 
on two beautiful slopes of land rising from a bay of the 
lake. The Pavilion, which is one of the largest and 
most comfortable houses in the region, is admirably 
situated on the rising ground. Both rooms and ve- 
randa command a lovely view across the beautiful 
bay, out upon the open lake, a5id across that to Belknap, 
whose noble form is grandly outlined against the south- 
ern sky. Mr. E. Stanton is landlord of this hotel. 
Visitors will be sure of receiving every attention they 
can desire, and will find the tables supplied with all the 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJV GUIDE. 155 

delicacies of the season, and the rooms neat and airy. 
The hotel is a modern erection, and has just been en- 
larged by the addition of some thirty rooms. It has 
long b^en known to the travelling community, and has 
been a favorite resort for those Avho wish to spend a 
few weeks upon the shores of the lake. Horses and 
carriages can be obtained at the livery stables. Boats 
for fishing parties or sailing excursions are also to be 
had.* 

CoppLE Crown Mountain, 
about 2100 feet high, is five miles from Wolfborough, 
and may be easily ascended. Carriages from the hotel 
convey you within about a mile of the summit, from 
which point horses can be obtained for the ascent if 
desired. The carriage fare is $1.00, and the charge 
for tlie horse for the ascent fifty cents. The view from 
the summit is thought by many to equal that from Red 
Hill, and is certainly very delightful. The lake, 
which forms a part of all views in this vicinity, is 
visible for nearly its whole length. Belknap and Gun- 
stock, with the mountains of the Merrimack valley, 
stretch away towards tlie west. To the south is a fine 
view of the more level part of the State, forest and 
meadow, with ponds and vilhiges distinctly visible. 
The Ossipee and Sandwich ranges tower above the 
lake to the north-west. Almost due north, Chocorua, 
with Mount Washington proudly preeminent above it, 
indicates the region of the White ^jyiountains. In a 
clear day the ocean can be seen. 

* See Aaden.la. 



156 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

On the north-east is a smaller mountain, called 
" Tumble-down-Dick." This is more easily ascended 
than Copple Crown, and the view is quite similar. 

The Wolfborough Railroad is a branch of the Great 
Falls and Conway, about twelve miles long. By it a 
close rail connection is had with Conway, and cars also 
run direct to Boston, via Portsmouth. By the express 
trains a little over four hours is required to reach 
Wolfborough from Boston, leaving that city over the 
Eastern Railroad. Between Conway and Wolfborough 
the time is now about an hour. The distance from 
Boston is 110 miles. During the season of mountain 
travel, Pullman cars will be run on the express train. 
Between Boston and Portsmouth the road runs by the 
seashore. The opening of this branch road and the 
extension of the main line to North Conway have made 
Wolfborough the most important point on the lake. 
The Pavillion is also the largest and most modern 
hotel of the Lake region, having fine, large and airy 
rooms. 

Centre Harbor 

is on the northern shore, near Squam Lake. The 
location is a beautiful one, and it has always been de- 
servedly popular. The Senter House, by J. L. Hun- 
tress, faces the lake. The view, from the piazza, of the 
quiet bay, sheltered by the hills, and guarded at its en- 



WHITE MOUJVT^fJ>^ GUIDE. 



157 




trance by a little island, of the lake beyond, gleaming 
in the sunlight, and of the mountains which surround 
the lake, is exquisitely lovely. It has been often 
painted and engraved. The hotel, one of the best in 
the mountain region, is commodious and well furnished, 
and has been long and favorably known for the con- 
venience of its arrangements, the perfection of its table, 
and the courtesy of the proprietor. An extensive liv- 
ery stable is connected with the hotel. Moulton's 
Hotel, a smaller house near by, is well kept. 

The chief object of interest in the immediate vicin- 
ity of Centre Harbor is 



158 WHITE M0UJ\rTJ3IJV GUIDE. 



Red Hill. 

From this hill, about four miles distant, in Moul- 
tonborough, the best view of the lake and circumja- 
cent scenery can be obtained. Its height, two thousand 
five hundred feet, places before the eye of the observer 
an extensive, varied, and picturesque tract of country, 
perhaps nowhere excelled in New England. It is by 
no means difficult to climb. There is a wagon-path to 
the base, and thence well-trained horses convey you to 
the summit. The top is destitute of trees and bushes, 
and affords an uninterrupted prospect far and wide. 
In clear days the peaks of the White Mountains are 
dimly discernible in the far north ; the Ossipee Moun- 
tains appear in the cast ; a little to the north, Chocorua, 
recalling its Indian tradition, rears its craggy summit ; 
and still farther away the mountains of Maine close in 
the view. Kcarsarge and Monadnock are plainly vis- 
ible at the south-west, with Belknap at the south-east. 
Squam Lake, six miles long, with its beautiful green 
islands, fringed with beaches of white sand, is glittering 
in the sunshine on the west. 

But to the south and east lies "Winnipesaukce, the 
gem of all New England lakes. The ascent of Red 
Hill is usually made in the forenoon ; but, to enjoy the 
exquisite loveliness of Winnipcsaukec, it should be 
made in the afternoon or in the early morning. In the 
middle of the day the blinding glare of the sun upon 
the water almost robs it of the quiet beauty of it? 
softness and harmony. But in the afternoon the sun 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 159 

illumines with a genial glow the calm expanse of the 
distant surface of the lake ; the rippling waves just 
reflect its image ; the hundred islands assume their 
peculiar form of grace and loveliness ; the mountains 
on the opposite shore, from a glow of crimson, change 
to a brown purple, as the lingering rays of the setting 
sun leave them one by one ; while the advancing 
shadows of those nearer to you change to a new form 
the fairy outline of the lake. Beyond extends 

" A slumb'rous stretch of mountain-land, far seen, 
When the low westering day, with gold and green, 
Purple and amber, softly blended, fills 
The wooded vales, and melts among the hills." 

If, too, you are early riser enough to see, from its 
summit, the sun roll up majestically from behind the 
opposite hills, you will acknowledge that Lake Win- 
nipesaukee possesses a charm and beauty peculiar to 
itself. 

Coaches leave Centre Harbor for Conway and North 
Conway regularly every day, soon after the arrival of 
the morning boats from the Weirs and Alton Bay. 
Ample time is allowed for dining on board the boats, 
or after landing at the excellent hotel just spoken of. 
The distance to North Conway is thirty-five miles. 

The route to North Conway is through Moulton- 
borough, just touching upon Squam Lake to Ossipee, 
and thence by the Great Falls and Conway Railroad. 
Moultonborough was formerly the seat of the Ossipee 
Indians. 



160 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Banks Hotel ia Ossipee is a small but comfortable 
country hotel which occupies a commanding position. 

The ascent of Chocorua can be conveniently made 
from this place. The best view of this mountain (" The 
Old Bear") may also be had here. The mountain 
is one of the most notable of the lower peaks of the 
White Mountain range. It is 3, 358 feet high, and 
without vegetation, other than such as a few blueberries 
or cranberries create. It is, in fact, a granite mountain, 
with pinnacles and precipices, sharp, angular peaks and 
unexpected descents — a countless myriad of great bowl- 
ders, hurled together by more than Titanic force. One 
of the peaks of Chocorua is the scene of the tragic inci- 
dent from which the peak derives its name, so beauti- 
fully narrated by Mrs. Seba Smith. 

COXWAY, 

though the gate to the mountain region, is one of the 
.most level towns in the State. In itself it possesses 
few objects of interest. In the vicinity, however, are 
brooks well stocked wdth trout. Most of the objects of 
interest in North. Conway, also, are accessible from this 
place. The Conw^ay House, kept by L. H. Eastman, 
an excellent hotel, and one of the best and most 
thoroughly built and convenient houses among the 
mountains, has just been newly furnished. This is one 
of the favorite houses among that class of people who 
desire to spend a few weeks quietly in the full enjoy- 
ment of the bracing mountain air. 



WHITE MOUJ^TjIIJV GUIDE. 161 

Five miles beyond Conway, in the valley of the Saco, 
and surrounded on all sides by mountains, lies 

North Conway, 
the favorite resort of our New England artists. Many 
families visit this place in the summer season to avoid 
the noise, bustle, and expense of large hotels. The 
Saco River here is from ten to twelve rods wide, and 
usually about two feet deep. It has been known to 
rise thirty feet in twenty-four hours. The Kiarsarge 
House, by Thompson, Son, & Andrews, is a new and 
large hotel, such as has long been needed at this place. 
It is newly furnished, lighted with gas, and has ac- 
commodation for 300 guests. The price is S4.00 per 
day, with a liberal deduction by the week. The other 
hotels are the McMillan House, by John McMillan, 
the Washington House, by J. M. Gibson, the North 
Conway House, by N. R. Mason, the Sunset Pavil- 
LiON, by F. H. and M. L. Mason, the Intervale 
House, by Mudgett and Eastman, and the Randall 
House, by James T. Randall. The price at these 
houses is from $2.50 to $3.00 per day. There are also 
many boarding-houses in the town. 

The village of North Conway is situated on the 
upland overlooking the intervals of the Saco. On the 
east is the range of hills, tht larger of which is called 
Middle Mountain, witl Kearsarge or Pequawket rising 
in lonely dignity a little to the north. On the west 
11 



162 WHITE MOUJVTJlIJ^ GUIDE. 

banli of the river can be seen the group called Moat 
Mountain, with the peaks of Chocorua in the distance. 
But the chief and surpassing glory of the place is the 
view up the Saco Valley, with Mt. Washington in the 
distance, A finer view can nowhere be obtained of 
Mt. Washington and the attendant peaks. Although 
the appearance of the mountains is ever varying, — now 
by the position of the sun, now by the fogs and mists, 
and now by the clouds which sometimes entirely ob- 
scure the summits, — still the best time to gaze upon 
them is when they are illuminated by the slanting 
rays of the sun at the close of a pleasant day. The 
shadows can be seen stealing up the mountain sides 
one by one, hastening with greater rapidity as they 
near their goal ; the summits farthest east of Washing- 
ton then lose their golden raiment, and adopt a more 
sombre hue ; then the peaks to the west, and finally 
Mt. Washington, as it was the first to greet, so it is 
the last to say farewell to the lingering rays of light. 
During the day the preeminence of Washington was 
distinctly visible, but now relieved against the sky it 
appears still more plainly. With the aid of a little 
imagination, a lay figure may be seen from their out- 
lines — Adams and Jefferson forming the head, Wash- 
ington the breast, and Webster and the other mountains 
the remainder of the body. 

There are several walks and drives in the vicinity 
of North Conway. The first of these excursions, to 
which we would call attention, is that to 



WHITE MOUJ\rT^IJ\r GUIDE. 1G3 

Artist's Falls. 
To reach this charming, though quiet and retired 
spot, you must retrace your steps for a short distance 
towards Conway. Just after crossing the bridge at the 
foot of a small hill, you turn abruptly to the left, leav- 
ipg the road, and, after a walk of half a mile, you will 
reach the place. A little stream of water, which once 
turned a mill-wheel, glides down a short descent. 
There is nothing wonderful or striking in the volume 
of water or the greatness of the descent ; yet the 
beauty of the whole scene, the picturesque grouping of 
the rocks, and the grateful shade of the forest trees, 
have caused it to be frequently portrayed upon the 
canvas. Those who see it often are most impressed 
by its charms. 

EcHQ Lake, Cathedral, and the Ledges. 

These can perhaps be most conveniently visited in a 
single afternoon's ride. They are all situated on the 
opposite side of the river, about three miles distant. 
Echo Lake, a beautiful sheet of water lying at the very 
base of Mote Mountain, is well worth visiting, even 
were it wanting in the wonderful echo from which it 
derives its names. The stillness of the sunset hour 
seems most inspiring to the genius of the place. 

The " White Horse," which is visible from the vil- 
lage, is a figure of a horse pictured upon the perpendic- 
ular sides of the cliffs. These cliffs extend along the 
mountain side for a distance of four or five miles. 



164 WHITE MOUJVr^IJV GUIDE. 

They vary in height from one to eight hundred feet. A 
ride directly along their base will give one a far better 
idea of their size than that gained from a distant view. 
The road is quite pleasant, winding along the bank of 
the Saco, and has many extended views. It is in one 
of these cliffs that " the Cathedral " is situated. This 
is a natural cavity formed in the solid granite. The 
wall, rising some eighty feet, gradually inclines out- 
ward, forming a magnificent arch, roofed with solid 
rock. Trees, which have been for many years attain- 
ing their present size, form the other wall of this nat- 
ural temple. The floor, which is some twenty feet in 
width, is strewn with large blocks of granite, which 
have evidently fallen from the roof above. Though 
the ascent to the Cathedral is somewhat arduous, it is 
worth while to make the attempt. 

Diana's Bath 

is situated on the same side of the Saco, a little farther 
to the north than the Cathedral. It is one of the 
most beautiful places about Conway. It is necessary 
for one to see, in order to realize its exquisite beauty, 
as no description, however minute or elaborate, can 
convey an adequate idea of its peculiar charms. The 
approach is along a pleasant woodland path, from 
which you descend upon a slightly inclined table of 
granite, over which the water gently Aoavs here and 
there in rivulets, broken into miniature falls by the jut- 
ting rocks. As you ascend the stream a little way you 
discover a beautiful fall, of some ten feet in height. 



WHITE MOUJVTj^IJ^ GUIDE. 165 

The overhanging trees throw a pleasant shade around, 
inviting one to a^^reeable repose. Above this, and 
indeed in many places below, are great numbers of 
holes or basins in rock, smoothly polished by the ac- 
tion of the water. It is from these, or perhaps from 
tlie largest, Avhich is not less than ten feet in diameter, 
and more than ten feet deep, that the place derives its 
name. As you look into the limpid Avater with which 
they are tilled, sparkling like crystal in the sun, or 
calm and quiet under the shadow of some overhanging 
tree, so that you may almost see the water sprites float- 
ing in the depths, you will readily acknowledge it to be 
such a bath as the goddess would have chosen for her- 
self. An hour or two may be very agreeably spent in 
exploring the hidden beauties which are disclosed only 
to the observing eye. 

Mount Pequawket or Kiarsarge. 

which is about three miles distant from the village, is 
3,367 feet above sea level. Several years ago a hotel 
was erected upon its summit, which has been recently 
repaired. It is kept by Andrew Dinsmore, and adds 
much to the attractiveness of the scene. The view from 
the observatory is superior to that obtained below, as 
it is unobstructed by the foreground. 

At a house near the base, horses and a guide can be 
obtained for the ascent. $2 are charged for each 
horse, and $2 more for the services of the guide. The 
ascent, however, is by no means difficult for pedes- 



166 WHITE Moujyr^iJv guide. 

trians, and can safely be made without the guide. 
The time required for the ascent is not far from two 
hours. The path can be ascended with horses to the 
very summit. 

As this is the highest peak south of the mountains 
in this direction, the view from its summit is especially 
fine. The whole White Mountain range is visible, 
with Mt. Washington most prominent. Nothing inter- 
venes to cut off the view of the whole of the latter 
peak. The minor hills, which somewhat obstruct the 
view below, are entirely lost sight of by the great ele- 
vation. Then towards the south-east is seen the broad 
expanse of comparatively level land towards Portland. 
Sebago Lake, Lovewell's Pond, and many other smaller 
bodies of water, agreeably diversify the face of the 
country. AVinnipesaukee Lake is hidden by the moun- 
tains upon its shores. The sharp peaks of Chocorua, 
with the Moat and Middle Mountains in the fore- 
ground, can also be seen with great distinctness. The 
course of the Saco can be traced almost from its 
source, as it winds its way among the intervals, and 
finally bends away into Maine. A good glass will be 
of material aid. This mountain should by no means 
be neglected by those who are desirous to obtain the 
best views of the mountain ranges. It is undoubtedly 
the best point, on this side of the White Mountains, to 
obtain a good view of Mt. Washington. 

The Hotel on the summit is kept by A. A. and J. 
W. Whitaker, and the price of board is $4.00 per day. 

Trains from Portland reach North Conway at 10 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 167 

A M and 3.45 P. M., and leave for Portland at 6.05 
A M and 12.10 P. M. The time between the two 
places* is about two and a half hours. Trains leave 
Boston over the Eastern, Portsmouth, Great Falls and 
Conway Railroads arrive at 1 and 7.30 P. M. The 
time by express trains will be about five hours. 

Sta-es leave for the Notch and the Glen at 8 A. M. 
and 2 P. M., daily. The distance to the Glen House 
is twenty-one miles; fare, $3. The distance t« the 
Crawford House is twenty-eight miles ; fare S3.50. 

A pleasant ride of two miles brings us to 

LOAVER BaRTLETT. 

Just beyond the village we join the travel between 
the Glen House and the Crawford House. For a 
further description, see page 71. 



1^^ WHITE MOUJ\rT^JJ\r GUIDE. 



DETAIL OF ROUTES. 



ROUTES FROM NEW YORK TO BOSTON. 

I. New York to Boston, via Stonington and Prov- 
dence ; on Long Island Sound by steamboat to Ston- 
ington ; thence to Providence and Boston by rail, ar- 
riving at Boston about six o'clock, A M Fare 
$5.00. 

The new steamers Stonington and Narragansett 
leave pier No. 33 North River in New York, at five 
o'clock in the afternoon, and arrive at Stonington about 
two o'clock in the morning. These are new and safe 
boats, and furnished with everything that will contrib- 
ute to the comfort of the passenger. This is an " in- 
side line," avoiding the roughness of the passage around 
Point Judith. 

Starting from New York late in the afternoon, the 
passage is made through the East River into Long Is- 
land Sound before sunset. The other boats for Boston 
also start about the same time, and pass within view 
of the same scenes. As they pass, on the one side, the 
quiet suburbs of Brooklyn, WiUiamsburg, and Green 



WHITE MOVJSTTAIjY GUIDE. 169 

Point, and on the other the busy piers and streets of 
New York, the green islands, — Blackwell's, Randall's, 
and others, — which lie like emeralds upon the soft bo- 
som of the river, the changing scenery from urban 
bustle and activity to rural stillness and solitude, the 
passenger on board will enjoy the calmness of the 
hour, and the varied pleasure of the panoramic view. 

II. New York and Boston, via Newport and Fall 
River, on Long Island Sound by steamboat, from New- 
port or Fall River by rail, arriving at Boston at six 
A. M. and nine A. M. 

The magnificent steamers Bristol and Providence 
leave pier No. 30 North River, daily at five P. M., 
and arrive at Fall River about four o'clock A. M. 
These boats are superior to any on the Sound. The 
state-rooms are large, and are lighted by gas. The 
route is over the whole length of Long Island Sound 
and a part of Narragansett Bay. The distance by boat 
is more, and that by rail less, than by any other route, 
though the time and fare are the same as by the pre- 
ceding. 

If the tourist designs going directly to the Mountains, 
via Concord, N. H., he can obtain breakfast on board, 
and, at 5.50, step into a parlor car, and without change 
ride all the way to the Wiers, Plymouth, Littleton, or 
Bethlehem, by an express train. The express train 
from the mountains also connects with the boat at ni^ht. 



170 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

By the returning trip Boston is left at 5.30 P. M., 
(Sundays, at 6.30). 

III. New York to Boston, via New London and 
Norwich, on Long Island Sound to New London ; 
thence by rail over the Boston, Hartford and Erie 
Kailroad, arriving at Boston about 6 A. M. Fare 
$5.00. 

The new and commodious steamers City of Boston 
and City of New York, leave pier No. 39 North 
River, in New York, at 5 P. M. These boats have 
few equals for elegance or comfort, and this route is 
considered by many the most convenient and favorable. 
On the return, this line of steamers affords good 
accommodation, as the train that leaves the Franconia 
mountains in the morning, connects with this boat via 
Worcester, enabling the traveller to reach New York 
the next morning. The trains down the Connecticut 
via the New London Northern, also make the same 
connection. 

Going towards Boston, New London is reached 
about 1 o'clock, A. M., where the passengers leave the 
steamer and take the cars. If the tourist designs pass- 
ing on to Concord, N. H., and thence to the moun- 
tains, he will take the train over the Norwich and 
Worcester Road, and proceed by way of Worcester 
and Nashua. Should he design going by way of the 
Connecticut valley, he may wait till 5 A. M., and then 
proceed as stated hereafter. 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 171 

The two o'clock train goes on to Boston, arriving 
there at about the same time as by the other routes. 

IV. New York to Boston, by railroad, via New- 
Haven, Hartford, Springfield, and Worcester. 

The New York and Boston Express line — land 
route — is formed by the New York and New Haven, 
New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield, Western, and 
Boston and Worcester Railroads. The cars leave New 
York at 27th and 32d Streets at 8 A. M., 3 — , and 
8 P. M. The time to Boston is nine hours by the day 
train, and ten hours by the night train. Comfortable 
sleeping cars are always connected with the night train. 
The fare is $6.00. 

y. New York to Boston, by railroad, via New 
Haven, New London, and Providence. This is what 
is called the Shore Line, and leaving the same depot 
in New Y^ork as the Springfield line, instead of fol- 
lowing up the Connecticut River at New Haven, pro- 
ceeds along the shore of Long Island Sound to New 
London, and connects with Boston by means of the 
Stonington, and Boston and Providence Railroads. 
The trains leave New York at 12.15 P. M., and at 8 
P. M., and arrive in Boston at 9 P. M., and 6 A. M. 
Sleeping cars accompany the night trains. The fare 
is $6.00. By this route, also, one can leave the train 
at Providence and proceed to the mountains via 
Worcester and Concord. On Sunday evenings these 
trains leaAe at 5 o'clock. 



172 WHITE MOUJVT^rJV GUIDE. 

From Boston to tlie Mountains there are, as before 
indicated, four distinct routes. 



I. BOSTON TO GORHAM, N. H., VIA PORTLAND. 

Express trains are now run over both the Boston 
and Maine, and Eastern Raikoad, leaving Boston at 
8.30 in the morning, and reaching Portland in season 
for dinner. At 1 o'clock the cars leave the station of 
the Grand Trunk Railway for Gorham, N. H. There 
are also other trains during the day, besides a night 
express over the Eastern. 

There is, also, communication by steamboat be- 
tween Boston and Portland. Leaving Boston about 
seven in the evening, Portland is reached at five in the 
morning. Then by the first train on the Grand Trunk 
Railway, the traveller arrives at Gorham at 11 A. M., 
and at the Glen House, if he desires, by stage in 
season for dinner. The fare from Boston to Gorham, 
by a through ticket on the cars, is S6 ; by steamboat 
and cars, $5. The distance from Boston to Portland 
by the shorter of the two railroad routes, is 107 miles ; 
from Portland to Gorham, N. H., 91 miles. 

On the route from Portland to Gorham there is 
nothing especially attractive in the scenery — uothino: 



WHITE MOUJ^TjIIJV GUIDE. 173 

that promises or hints the grandeur in reserve, until 
the train reaches 

Bryant's Pond. This lake in miniature, the source 
of the Little Androscoggin River, charmingly set 
among hills several hundred feet in height, is twenty- 
nine miles from Gorham. The pond and the track of 
the railroad lie about seven hundred feet above the sea 
level. 

Bethel 

which is the next point of interest, is the chief town 
of Oxford county, Maine, and probably the loveliest 
village of that State. It is twenty-one miles from 
Gorham. Travellers are as yet but little acquainted 
with its attractions. Bethel is, in truth, the North 
Conway of the eastern side of the Hills. If the ter- 
minus of the railroad were here, or if passengers were 
compelled to leave the cars at this point, and take 
stages to Gorham and the Glen, Bethel would be a 
dangerous rival to North Conway, and the ride from 
Bethel to Mount Washington would be pronounced 
superior, on some accounts, in charm, to the famous 
ride from Conway through Bartlett to the Notch. 

The meadows of Bethel are very lovely ; and on a 
clear afternoon, when the golden light falls aslant upon 
the fresh grass, throwing out long shadows from the 
trees, and the eye follows northward the narrowing 
line of hills along the course of the Androscoggin, and 



174 WHITE MOUJVTjlIJ\r GUIDE. 

catches the sharp edges of the great White Mountain 
range sweeping across and closing up the vista, it is 
difficult to conceive where an artist can fmd a more 
tempting picture in New England. There are several 
hills, too, in and near the village, easily accessible, 
around which the most fascinating panoramas of 
forests, hills, rivers, lakes, meadows, and mountain 
majesty are displayed. Bethel will, we predict, at 
some time not very far distant, be sought as a board- 
ing-place during the summer by those who love charm- 
ing scenery with more quiet than the prominent White 
Mountain routes and hotels afford. 

The Chandler House, by F. S. Chandler, is the 
principal hotel in the place. It will accommodate from 
75 to 100 guests. Travellers can procure teams from 
him to visit places of interest in the neighborhood. 
Like Conway, Bethel is a favorite place of resort for 
persons seeking a quiet boarding place among the 
mountains. There is a delightful drive of twelve miles 
to the grand water sculpture of the Albany Basins, 
which are worn out of the solid granite. Eighteen 
miles in the opposite direction one finds the Rumford 
Falls. The road to these falls is excellent, the scenery 
on the way very lovely, and the falls themselves hardly 
inferior to any in New England. The full tide of the 
Androscoggin makes a descent here of one hundred and 
sixty feet in three pitches, and within the space of a 
quarter of a mile. There is one sheer descent of seventy 
feet. The drive may be one way on one side and the 
return on the opposite side of the Androscoggin, through 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 175 

beautiful meadows, with fine views of Kiarsarge, Cho- 
corua, and the White Mountain Range. The Green- 
wood caves are also to be visited on this route. 

Lake Umbagog 

is best visited from this point. It is 26 miles from 
Bethel, with a regular stage connection. On leav- 
ing Bethel, the Androscoggin is followed for six miles 
to Newry Corner. Thence the route lies up the Bear 
River, a small mountain stream to the well-known 
Poplar Tavern, kept by Charles Bartlett, which 
is twelve miles from Bethel. Three miles from this 
place, at Fanning's Mills are the " Screw Auger Falls," 
which are well worth visiting. Starting early in the 
morning from Bethel, this portion of route can be visited 
and Bethel reached the same night. If possible, how- 
ever, the journey should be continued through the Bear 
River Notch, also called, we believe, Grafton Notch, 
which is the most impressive mountain pass in this 
section of the State. The Lake House, kept by H. 
R. Goodwin, is on the shore of Umbagog Lake. 

Dixville Notch, which is nineteen miles from this 
place, is accessible from this point. The route is by 
steamer across the Lake to Errol Dam, and thence by 
private conveyance ten miles further. We shall speak 
of Dixville Notch, more at length hereafter. 

Angler's Retreat 
is sixteen miles above the Lake House. It is a great 



176 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

place of resort for fishermen from all parts of the 
country. It is kept by the proprietor of the Lake 
House, and has accommodations for about thirty guests. 
The spotted brook-trout are the only trout found in the 
chain of lakes of which Umbagog is the lower. They 
range from one to eight pounds in weight, and the 
fishing in this vicinity is probably unsurpassed in New 
England. 

From Bethel to the station in Gorham the scenery 
through which the cars pass is very fascinating. Three 
villages, charmingly located to increase the beauty 
of the landscape, lie in full view from the train, — 
West Bethel, Gilead, and Shelburne. About a mile 
from the station in Gilead the boundary line of Maine 
is passed, and the traveller is among the New Hamp- 
shire hills. Especially fortunate are those who see this 
scenery for the first time in the rich light of a clear 
summer afternoon. The sight of the brilliant meadows, 
spotted with elms, — of the graceful curves of the An- 
droscoggin, studded with islands ; of the brawny hills 
that guard it, among w'hich the train flies along a 
twisted track ; and, now and then, of the long, firmly- 
cut lines of the White Mountain ridge shooting across 
the north, until in Shelburne, Madison, and the peak 
of Jefferson, and the bulk of Washington, spring out 
for a few minutes in full view, — almost banishes the 
fatigue of a hot day's ride, and prepares the visitor for 
the pleasures in store after his arrival in Gorham, at 
the Alpine House. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 177 

The route through the mountain region from this 
point is described on the 14th and following pages. 

But we must here speak of two excursions to other 
points of interest connected directly with the White 
Mountains on their eastern side. 

WiLLOUGHBY LaKE 

must xio\ be overlooked. This is a small sheet of 
water, six miles in length, and from one to two in 
width, charmingly set between steep granite moun- 
tains in the northern part of Vermont. There is a 
fine hotel on the border of the lake, kept by Alonzo 
Bemis. Passengers can leave Gorham about noon by 
cars, stop at the Island Pond House for dinner, and 
take the stage thence for Willoughby Lake, which will 
be reached by tea-time. More will be said of this lake 
in another connection. 

Memphremagog Lake 
may also be reached from Island Pond by stage. The 
distance to Newport, at the head of the lake, is about 
the same as to Willoughby. The traveller may also 
continue his journey to Sherbrooke, whence a stage- 
ride of sixteen miles will convey him to Outlet Vil- 
lage, on the northern shore of the lake. The lake 
will be described more at length hereafter. The fare 
to Newport or AVilloughby Lake from Island Pond is 
one dollar. ]^2 



178 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE 

Island Pond is the "half-way" station between 
Portland and Montreal. It is a charming spot. The 
pond is directly in front of the station-house. 



DixviLLE Notch. 

The Dixville hills lie in the extreme northern por- 
tion of New Hampshire, some sixty miles beyond the 
Washington range. It is very seldom that a tourist 
strays so far from the regular routes ; but the geolo- 
gists have long been acquainted with the interesting 
scenery of the region, and have called attention to it 
in reports of their surveys. Dr. Jackson, in his 
great work on the Geology of New Hampshire, 
speaks of the Dixville Notch as more Alpine in its 
character than any other pass of our New England 
mountains, and predicts that its grandeur will yet 
make it a place of large resort. 

Since the completion of the Grand Trunk Railway, 
it has become easily accessible, and should be more 
widely known. One can leave Boston at seven o'clock 
in the morning, and sleep the same night within ten 
miles of the Notch, reaching it early in the forenoon of 
the second day ; or take the eleven o'clock train from 
the Alpine House in Gorham, and in an hour and a half 
be landed at North Stratford, which lies on the Con- 
necticut River, thirty-six miles from Gorham. The 



WHITE MOUJ\rTjifJ\r GUIDE. 179 

railroad ride is very pleasant. The track lies along 
the narrow and winding valley of the Androscoggin, 
hemmed in by grand and gloomy hills, until it bends 
toward the more cheerful Connecticut. Then it winds 
up around the base of the singular, bleached, twin 
cones called the Stratford Peaks. 

At North vStratford a wagon-stage is in readiness, 
on the arrival of the noon and evening trains, to con- 
vey passengers to Colebrook. If there is no stage, an 
extra wagon can be hired at slight expense. The ride 
to Colebrook, up the Connecticut, is charming. Fre- 
quently a view of a broad interval, with the glittering 
river sweeping through it in a lordly curve, will make 
a man regret that the slow pace of the horses could not 
be retarded, in order that he might more leisurely feast 
his eyes. 

Colebrook may also be reached by stage from Lan- 
caster, the terminus of the Boston, Concord, and Mon- 
treal Raih'oad. The train that leaves Boston at 7.80 
A. M. from the Boston and Maine and Lowell Railroad 
depots, as explained hereafter, arires at Lancaster 
about six o'clock. From this point, as suggested 
above, conveyance may be had to Colebrook and Dix- 
ville, passing through the beautiful valley of the upper 
Connecticut. 

Colebrook is quite a flourishing village on the New 
Hampshire side of the river, and lying in the eastern 
shadow of a massive and majestic mountain which the 
inhabitants call Monadnoc. This hill lies just beyond 
the river in Vermont, and is really quite imposing by 



180 WHITE MOUJCTAIJ\r GUIDE. 

its bulk and glorious verdure. It must spring more 
than two thousand feet from the stream at its base. 
One arrives in Colebrook usually about four in the 
afternoon. Dixville Notch is only ten miles distant. 
But there is no public house near it, and it is best to 
pass the night at the inn kept, we believe, by Mr. 
Cummings, in Colebrook, and called the Monadnoc 
House. There is also a new hotel here called the 
Parsons House. One had better leave the hotel about 
seven the next morning for the Notch, and give the 
whole day to the excursion. The road is very good, 
but rises steadily the whole distance ; so that the ten 
miles demand three hours' riding. Travellers will be 
much struck with the general excellence of the land 
along the way. It is the best farming region of the 
Granite State ; and the fields are so free from stones 
that it is quite impossible to have stone walls for 
boundaries. The last two miles of the ride wind 
through the grandest forest one will find in his moun- 
tain travels. Every variety of tree is represented 
along the way, and generally of much larger growths 
than are met before. A person will begin to doubt 
whether there is any mountain magnificence near, so 
closely is the road shut in by the forest Suddenly the 
heavy walls of the Dixville range begin to show them- 
selves ahead. And while one is admiring their dark 
and grave sides of shadowed foliage, wondering where 
the pass he is in search of can open, a turn of the 
road to the right brings the wagon in front of the bare 
and savage jaws of the Notch, at its western entrance. 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJT GUIDE. 



181 




The first view of it is very impressive. It opens like 
a Titanic gateway to some region of vast and mysteri- 
ous desolation. The pass is much narrower than 
either of the more famous ones in the AYhite Moun- 
tains, and, through its whole extent of a mile and a 
quarter, has more the character of a Notch. One can- 
not but feel that the mountain was rent apart by some 
volcanic convulsion, and the two sides left to tell the 
story by their correspondence and the naked dreariness 
of the pillars of rotting rock that face each other. So 
narrow is the ravine (it can hardly be called a pass) 
that a rough and precarious roadway for a single car- 
riage could only be constructed by building up against 
the mountain's side a substructure of rude masonry, 
while the walls slope upward so sharply on either 



182 WHITE Mouj\rr^jj\r guide. 

hand that a considerable outlay is demanded of the 
State every year to clear it of the stones and earth 
■which the frosts and rain roll into it every winter and 
spring. 

No description can impart an adequate conception 
of the mournful grandeur of the decaying cliffs of mica 
slate which overhang the way. They shoot up in most 
singular and fantastic shapes, and vary in height from 
four hundred to eight hundred feet. A few centuries 
ago the pass must have been very wild, but the pin- 
nacles of rock, which give the scenery such an Alpine 
character, are rapidly crumbling away. Some have 
decayed to half their original height ; and the side 
walls of the Notch are strewn with dehris, which the 
ice and storms have pried and gnawed from the decre- 
pit cliifs. Tiie whole aspect is one of ruin and wreck. 
The creative forces seem to have retreated from the 
spot, and abandoned it to the sport of the destructive 
elements. One might entertain the thought that some 
awful crime had been committed there, for which the 
region was blasted by a lasting curse. The only life in 
the Notch belongs to the raspberry vines. It seems to 
be the paradise of this delicious fruit. 

One should climb the highest pinnacle, called Table 
Rock, which juts out from the southerly w^all of the 
pass, and stands about eight hundred feet above the 
road. It is no easy task to keep the footing in the 
steep ascent over the loose and treacherous ruins of 
slate that strew the way. Hands and feet are neces- 
sary. Table Rock is a narrow, projecting ledge, only 



WHITE MOUJVT^IJ\r GUIDE. 183 

some six or eight feet Avide at the summit, and about a 
hundred and fifty feet long, rising in an almost un- 
broken precipice on each side for several hundred feet. 
The descent is even more arduous than the ascent. It 
will be found, however, that the view from the summit 
repays the toil of the scramble. It is no small trial for 
weak nerves to walk out upon the side of the Notch 
upon this cliff, not more than six feet wide and eight 
hundred feet sheer down. No part of the ride up Mt. 
Washington makes the head swim so giddily. From 
it one can easily see into Maine, Vermont, and Canada. 
Only a few miles east lies Lake Umbagog, where the 
moose congregate in the evening to stand up to their 
neck in water and " fight flies," as the guides express it. 
About ten miles north is Lake Connecticut, a beautiful 
sheet of Avater, mother of the noble river which is the 
pride of New England. A tourist might spend a few 
days very profitably in exploring the novelties of the 
districts that lie around the Notch. On the face of this 
cliff, seen from below, some locate the usual Profile, 
without which a mountain pass is regarded as incom- 
plete. 

After about an hour's stay upon the pinnacle, one 
should descend and ride through the pass to a flume 
just before the eastern gateway is reached. Nearly 
opposite the entrance to the flume will be found a re- 
markably cold spring. On the opposite side of the 
road, in the woods, just beyond the Notch, there is a 
series of beautiful cascades, extending nearly a mile, 
surpassed in beauty and volume by none in the whole 



184 WHITE MOUJVT^IJ^ GUIDE- 

White Mountain region. There is no path to these, and 
it will be found a ditficult task to reach them. 

The grand distinctive features of Dixville Notch are 
desolation and decay. How charming, then, the sur- 
prise, in passing through the Notch eastward, to ride 
out from its spiky teeth of slate into a most lovely 
plain, called '' The Clear Stream Meadows," em- 
bosomed in mountains, luxuriantly wooded to the 
crown. It is something like descending from the 
desolation of the Alps into the foliage and beauty of 
Italy. The only house near was accidentally burned 
a few years since. The graves of the earliest settler 
and his wife are there, fenced off rudely, and over- 
grown with the tall weeds which nature wears for 
them. How many of the great and wealthy of our land 
will find such a cemetery? A mountain range for a 
monument ; a luxuriant valley for a grave ; such 
silence to sleep in as no Mt. Auburn can assure, and 
their story told to visitants from far-off portions of the 
land ! 

Returning through the whole length of the Notch, 
Colebrook is reached again by supper-time. The next 
morning, one can take the stage-wagon to North Strat- 
ford, and thence reach Gorham by cars early in the 
forenoon. Thus the whole journey from the Alpine 
House, or Glen House, to Dixville Notch, and back 
again, can be made in two days, and nearly the whole 
of one day will be passed in the Notch. It is also one 
of the cheapest excursions which the mountain region 
affords. 



WHITE J^WUJVT^IJV OUIDE. 185 

Tourists, who prefer a longer excursion, can provide 
themselves at the Alpine House with a light wagon, 
stout horses, and careful driver, and make the circuit 
through Dixville Notch at their leisure. Instead of 
returning by the same route, they would in that case 
pass on from the Notch to Erol Dam, at the head 
waters of the Androscoggin ; spend a few days on 
Umbagog and its sister lakes, of which Theodore Win- 
throp writes so pleasantly, and return to the White 
Mountains through Grafton Notch in Maine, and the 
beautiful meadows of Bethel. To the sportsman, no 
trip can be more attractive, for nowhere are the trout 
finer or more plentiful. The scenery, too, is very fine. 
Grafton Notch, of wliich we had never heard until we 
were at its portals, and saw the gleanming pennant of 
a mountain-king flung out athwart the emerald fresh- 
ness of its southern slope, is destined yet to be immor- 
tal. In the loveliness of its scenery, and its manifold 
objects of interest, it may contest the palm with Fran- 
conia. There is a Avonderful chasm here, whose walls 
are as high and as perpendicular as those of the 
Flume. It is only accessible from above. At the 
bottom flows a large and noisy stream, which, as if the 
gloom of the lofty walls which hem it in, and the som- 
bre stillness of the surrounding forest did not suffi- 
ciently guard its privacy, plunges beneath a huge mass 
of superincumbent rock — a rock which would be a 
landmark in Massachusetts or Rhode Island — and 
disappeiirs from sight. Local tradition gives to this 
striking spot the name of Moose Chasm. It was dis- 



186 WHITE MOUJ\rTAIJ^ GUIDE. 

covered by a hunter, whose game suddenly disappeared 
from his sight, and left him gazing down into the dark 
abyss, which the deer had in vain sought to leap. 

The roads which are traversed on this route are 
hilly, but, Avith the exception of that through Dixville 
Notch, in good condition. Hotels are scarce, but an 
abundance of good, homely fare can be obtained at the 
scattered farm-houses, and a comfortable night's rest 
could be had before the war for a shilling. The trav- 
eller in this region would do well to keep a day's ra- 
tions by him in case of emergency ; but it is generally 
safe to rely on the country through which you pass. 

PORTLAND, ME., TO NORTH CONWAY, N. H. 

Distance, sixty miles. The cars of the Portland and 
Ogdensburgh Railroad are now running between Port- 
laud and North Conway. At the former place they 
connect with the trains to and from Boston. This rail- 
road was projected to afford a western connection to the 
city of Portland more direct than those already built, 
and is designed to go through the White Mountain 
Notch and cross the State of Vermont. Two trains run 
daily each way. 

The road passes by the shores of the beautiful Sebago 
Lake, from which the city of Portland is supplied with 
water. There is a small steamer on the lake, by 
means of which a very pleasant excursion can be had 
by stopping over for one train. The road passes 
through many pleasant villages ; folio vving the Saco, 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 187 

after leaving the lake. About nine miles from North 
Conway is 

Fryeburg, the seat of a flourishing Academy. The 
Oxford House in this place is kept by Mr. John 
Smith, for many years stage owner and driver between 
Conway, N. II., and Portland, Me. There are many 
places of interest in this town. Stark's Hill, about 
five hundred feet high ; Jockey Cap, somewhat cele- 
brated for its pecuHar geological formation ; Lovewell's 
Pond, on the shores of which Capt. Lovewell, in 1725, 
fought a battle with the Pequaket tribe of Indians, 
under their chief, Paugus ; and Pine Hill, are all within 
a short distance of the hotel. Pleasant Mountain, 
about nine miles distant, in an easterly direction, in 
full view from the village, is about three thousand feet 
high ; there is a public house on its summit for the 
accommodation of visitors. 

Fine distant views of the mountains are gained all 
along the route. Conway and the route to the Notch 
are spoken of on the 160th and following pages. 



II. BOSTON TO WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH, VIA DO- 
VER, ALTON BAY, AYOLFBOROUGH, CENTRE HAR- 
BOR, AND CONWAY. 

Distance from Boston to Alton Bay, ninety-six miles. 

The distance from Boston to Centre Harbor, by this 

route, is greater than by the route through Concord, 



188 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

N. H. But the ride by rail is seven miles shorter, while 
an additional twenty miles of Lake Winnipesaukee is 
traversed on board the steamer. The new steamer Mt. 
Washington, under the charge of Capt. A. Wiggin, now 
runs in the place of the old steamer Dover. This is a 
most comfortable and rapid boat, and Capt. Wiggin is 
a very pleasant and gentlemanly commander, and has 
been connected with the steamer Dover since it was 
first built. The time is nearly the same as by the 
route via Concord. The cars leave Boston at the same 
time, and the boat reaches Centre Harbor about half 
ac hour later than by the Concord route, but in season 
for the stages for Conway. 

The tourist leaves Boston by the cars of Boston and 
Maine Railroad, from Haymarket Square, at 7.30 
A. M., reaching Alton Bay about 12 o'clock. The train 
that leaves Boston at 12 o'clock reaches here about 
4.30 P. M., connecting with the steamer Mt. Wash- 
ington for Wolfeborough and Centre Harbor. For a 
further description of the route and of the lake, see 
page 146. 



III. BOSTON TO WHITE MOUNTAINS, VIA CONCORD, 

N. H. 

The traveller leaves Boston for Concord, either by 
the cars of the Boston and Maine Railroad, from 
Haymarket Square, or of the -Lowell Railroad, from 
Causeway Street. Should he take the former route, 
he will pass to Lawrence, where the Manchester and 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUII/E. 189 

Lawrence Hailroad diverges from the Boston and 
Maine, and passes on to Manchester, where a union 
is effected with the train on the Concord Raih'oad from 
below. 

On leaving Boston by the Boston and Lowell Rail- 
road, the traveller will pass through Lowell and Nashua 
to Manchester, where the trains intersect as above. 

Eighteen miles farther is Concord, the capital of 
New Hampshire. The amount of railroad building, 
work, furniture, etc., here visible, is probably greater 
than in any place of even twice its size throughout the 
country. It is the depot of four distinct railways, and 
at the hours of half past ten and three, when the great 
trains, northward and southward, are made up, a scene 
of apparently irremediable confusion is presented to 
the spectator, not unfrequently adorned with quite novel 
and amusing incidents. 

From Concord four distinct routes to the mountain 
region present themselves to the traveller. One is over 
the Northern, and the other three over the Montreal 
Railroad. 

1. Concord to Franconia, via Northern, Connec- 
ticut, and Passumpsic, and White Mountains Railroad. 
Distance 140 miles; from Boston, 212. Fare from 
Boston to Franconia, $9.00; from Concord, $6.75. 
Time from Boston, 12 hours. 

The Northern Railroad extends from Concord to 
White River Junction, following the course of the 
Merrimack as far as Franklin, Avhen it crosses to the 
Connecticut over the high lands of central New Hamp- 



190 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

shire. The road is admirably conducted, and furnishes 
a favorite route. At Fisherville the road crosses the 
Contoocook River and Dustin's Island, so named from 
.its being the camping ground of a party of Indians, 
from whom a captive -woman, Mrs. Dustin, made 
her escape in colonial times. Just before reaching 
Franklin the traveller will notice, upon the right of 
the track, the former residence of the late Hon. Daniel 
Webster. It is a comfortable, old-fashion'ed house, 
among the trees, and just the place to furnish repose 
to the statesman jaded in the conflicts of party and 
of the forum. Franklin is a busy village. At Pot- 
ter Place may be seen, on the left of the track, 

Mt. Kearsarge. 

This IS the mountain for which the steamer was 
named that was afterwards immortalized by the de- 
struction of the " Alabama." Near the summit, and 
commanding a fine view of the surrounding country, is 
an excellent hotel, named in honor of the commander of 
the " Kearsarge " the Winslow House. Mr. S. D. 
Baker, the landlord, has been connected with other 
summer hotels, and will spare no paias to make a stay 
here pleasant and agreeable. The ascent to the summit 
from the hotel is easy, and the view will amply repay 
for the slight fatigue. The mountain is 2,461 feet high. 
At Danbury tlie train stops a few minutes for re- 
freshments. Cardigan Mountain may be seen from 
Grafton. At Enfield is a beautiful pond, on whose 
shores a community of Shakers have a neat settle- 
ment. Through Lebanon and East Lebanon the train 
passes to 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ\r GUIDE. 191 

"White River Junction, where the road crosses the 
Connecticut, and a union is effected with the trains 
from the valley of the Connecticut. This place is im- 
portant only from the fact that it is the convergent 
and divergent point of the eight railroad trains, which 
here meet and separate over the Passumpsic, Northern, 
and Vermont Central Railroads. It is distant from 
New York, 265 miles ; from Boston, 152 via Fitch- 
burg, 142 via Lowell ; from Wells River 40 ; from 
Willoughby Lake 80 ; and from Franconia Notch 60 
miles. There is often considerable confusion here, 
occasioned by the arrival and departure of the numer- 
ous trains, and by the eiforts of passengers going in 
different directions to secure their proper conveyance. 
In the calmest state of mind, however, let the tourist, 
after refreshment, for which there is ample time, step 
into the cars of the Passumpsic Railroad, sure that he 
is right, and he will soon go ahead through, perhaps, 
the most delightful region of country which he has 
yet seen. 

The Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad 
connects White River with the Grand Trunk Railway 
at Lennoxviile, and forms the most direct line between 
New York and Quebec. 

The extent and variety of the scenery on this por- 
tion of the route are greater than is ever imagined by 
those Avho have never visited it. The great diversity 
and contrast of the views are alone sufficient to aston- 
ish and delight. Hill and valley, precipice and plain, 



192 WHITE MOUJ\rTjlIJV GUIDE. 

— sharp, angular declivities, without a vestige of ver- 
dure, and smooth, smiling meadow lands, covered 
with the greenest sward and the heaviest crops ; a 
great surface of river on the one hand, unruffled and 
seemingly motionless, a little mountain stream on 
the other, dashed into foam by the speed of its descent, 

— all these totally different and dissimilar prospects 
are so intermingled with one another as to be a con- 
stant source of surprise and satisfaction. 

But, divested of these more distant views, there is 
still something startling in the sudden changes pre- 
sented to the eye over the very track itself: at one 
instant the cars are sweeping smoothly along the 
most beautiful of meadows ; the next they are, appar- 
ently, penned within the solid rock, that rises fifty 
feet upon either hand ; they dash out upon a great em- 
bankment, that is invisible, and seemingly fly across 
the chasm which is beneath ; they tremble along the 
lofty grade, which falls precipitously into the darkness 
and resonance of a bridge ; emerge to sunlight by the" 
side of some beautiful pond, and slowly draw to a 
halt in a quiet New England village. 

Mt. Cuba, Sunday Mountain, Black Mountain, Mt. 
Sago, and Moosilauke are among the peaks near the 
railroad, and visible in this part of the journey. 

Neavbury, thirty-five miles from White River, is 
chiefly noted for its Sulphur Springs, as infallible a 
specific as patent medicine for many diseases. Mt. 
Pulaski is not far distant. From its summit a lovely 
view is presented of the Connecticut valley, its wide- 



WHITE MOUJ^T^IJ^ GUIDE. 193 

spread farms and thriving villages. Passing through 
a tremendous cut in the solid rock, we reach 

Wells River, the junction of the Montreal, the 
Passumpsic, and the White Mountains Railroads. 
The latter is the road necessary for reaching Franco- 
nia. There is no detention, and the cars are soon 
making their way up the Ammonoosuc River. 

Littleton is the terminus of railroad travel for 
persons going to the Profile House, and is reached 
about five o'clock, P. M. Stages are in readiness to 
start immediately for the Franconia Notch, distant 
twelve miles. Fare $2.00. 

Having taken on board the evening mail for the 
denizens of the mountain region, the stage-coaches are 
off upon their course for the long-desired goal. For 
twelve miles the road winds along in the valleys, and 
ascends the hills through the scattered village of Franco- 
nia. The land rises on either side, its highest elevations 
softly burnished by the setting sun. The mountains in 
the distance glow with a more radiant light. Gradually 
the shadows steal up their sides as the sun goes down. 
Darkness settles in the valley. The passengers beguile 
the way with " Stage Coach Stories," or gaze in ad- 
miring silence on the varied landscape, as the " last 
rays of departing day linger and play upon the sum- 
mits " of the neighboring hills. The peaks of the 
Franconia Mountains loom up with gloomy outline on 
the evening sky. An occasional cabin is now only to 
be seen along the roadside. Soon even this slight 
symptom of human life disappears. In the deepening 

13 



194 WHITE MOU^TTAIJf GUIDE. 

shades of evening the coach rattles, for two or three 
miles, through a gloomy piece of dark forest, and by 
eight o'clock the careful driver has brought his pre- 
cious freight safely to the door of the hotel. The 
bright lights, the cosy fire in the open chimney, the 
sounds of merry voices, and the cordial greetings of 
friends, welcome the arriving party to the abundant 
cheer aud the generous hospitality of the Profile 
House. 

Passengers for the White Mountain Notch do not 
leave the cars here, but continue on to the Twin 
Mountain House, where they may take coaches for 
the Fabyan House or the Crawford House. The 
train also goes to Lancaster and Northumberland 
on the Grand Trunk Railway. 

Lancaster, N. H. 

This is the shire town of Coos county, and is set 
amid some of the noblest and loveliest scenery of New 
England. The whole range of the White Mountains, 
the great Franconia hills, the Stratford Peaks, and 
many of the Green Mountains are in full view from 
some of its streets. Then, too, the Connecticut mead- 
ows are among the finest here which the river can boast 
in its whole extent. The drives in the neighborhood, 
on either side the Connecticut, are unsurpassed, proba- 
bly, in New England ; for the roads are excellent, and 
the views are very various. The Lancaster House is 
a spacious hotel kept by B. & H. Corning, which will 
afford attractive accommodation to travellers. There 
are few points among, or near the mountains, where 
so much quiet pleasure could be experienced in a visit 
of a few weeks as in Lancaster. 



WHITE MOUNTAm GUIDE. 195 



Lakes Willoughby and Memphremagog. 

Those who desire to visit Lakes Willoughby and 
Memphremagog, will continue their journey from 
Wells River over the Connecticut and Passu mpsic 
Railroad to St. Johnsbury and Newport, without 
change of cars. At West Burke, thirty-seven miles 
from Wells River, stages leave for Lake Willoughby 
on the arrival of the cars. The distance is five miles. 
Those who intend to proceed directly to Lake Mem- 
phremagog, will continue their journey twenty-eight 
miles to Newport. 

The ride from Wells River up the valleys of the 
Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers is very charming. 
The Connecticut is left at Barnet. Now continually 
crossing and' recrossing the Passumpsic, the road 
winds its way through a wild and picturesque portion 
of the country. At every village there is a fall. In- 
deed, a mill seems to have been the occasion of the 
clustering houses in the early settlement of the coun- 
try. Several of these invite a much closer inspection 
than the hurrying train will allow. The traveller 
will do well, if he can, to particularly observe the 
rapids and falls just before reaching the town of Lyn- 
don. The railroad crosses the river just at the head 
of the fall. St. Johnsbury, which is twenty miles 
from Wells River, is the most considerable town on 
this portion of the line. 



196 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Willoughby and Mempliremagog should not be 
omitted from the programme of pleasure travel. 
They abound in pleasant scenery, and can now be 
reached at a moderate expense and with comparative 
ease. The lakes and streams emptying into them, 
and the circumjacent ponds, abound in trout and 
other kinds of fish. The hills upon the shore lie 
pleasantly basking in the sunshine, and the whole 
place ever breathes the sweet influence of contentment 
and peace. Those who know the region, and the 
route thither, need not be reminded of its quiet and 
repose, while those who have yet the pleasure in 
reserve, need but a single suggestion to induce them 
to test its attractions. 

Willoughby Lake 
is a beautiful sheet of water, between six and seven 
miles in length, and varying from half a mile to two 
miles in width. It is of a crescent shape, with little 
inlets and promontories along its shores. As you ap- 
proach from the south, there suddenly rise up before 
you two mountain peaks, so near and so like each 
other, that you are almost persuaded that they have 
been separated by human effort. Between these, and 
extending still farther to the north, lies the lake. 
It is within a gap or chasm of the Green Mountain 
range, and' forms a great reservoir for the brooks in 
the immediate vicinity. The waters of the lake dis- 
charge, through a small stream, into the St. Francis, 
and thence into the St. Lawrence. The brooks and 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 197 

rivulets, however, which are crossed a few rods before 
reaching the hotel, flow into the Passumpsic and down 
the Connecticut. 

The loveliness of the lake is greatly enhanced by 
the rough and precipitous scenery around it. The 
lake is all beauty and repose, while the mountains, 
rising so abruptly from the shore that there is room 
for little more than a carriage-way, are rough and an- 
gular. 

At some remote day the two peaks that now tower 
on either side of the lake undoubtedly formed a single 
summit, and were separated by some of the volcanic 
throes whose traces are so visible throughout this 
region. Mt. Ananance, the peak upon the eastern 
shore, is one thousand nine hundred and fifty feet high. 
It receives its name from a chief of the St. Francis 
tribe which once lived here. A modern attempt to 
christen it " Pisgah " has fortunately been unsuccessful. 
The unnamed summit confronting Mt. Ananance, on 
the opposite side of the lake, is fifteen hundred feet 
high. Here, a short distance from the water, there is 
a sparse growth of pine, fir, spruce, cedar, and hemlock, 
rapidly dwindling into dwarf birch and shrubs. The 
soil they cover is thin and rocky, evidently a detritus 
from the mountains. This vegetation is on an angle, 
from the side of the mountain, of at least forty-five 
degrees, and extends up about six hundred feet. It is 
terminated by the solid rock, which rises from above the 
tree-tops a thousand feet perpendicularly. A forest of 
stunted pine and hemlock bristles around the summit, 



198 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

cleared away, however, for a little space on the highest 
elevation, so as to afford a view of the surrounding 
country. 

From this observatory, easily attained on horseback, 
and nearly reached with a carriage, there is a most 
beautiful landscape visible. Lake Memphremagog and 
Owl's Head Mountain are twenty miles to the north ; 
Lake Champlain and its shipping fifty miles to the 
westward ; every prominent part of the White Moun- 
tains, the entire range of the Green Mountains, Massa- 
weepee Lake, — the beautiful pond in Westmoreland 
Burke and Newark, — are all fairly visible from the 
summit of Mt. Ananance. 

Near the "Devil's Den," — a doubtful-looking hole 
in the rock, about midway down the lake shore, — it is 
said no soundings can be obtained, although fabulous 
quantities of line have been expended in the attempt. 
Above this spot, some six hundred feet on the hillside, 
and just at the base of a precipitous rock, there is what 
has been named the Flower Garden — a spot where all 
varieties of wild plants grow and blossom. And still 
higher than the Flower Garden, in the rock itself, 
where the foot of man never trod, and probably never 
will, is the Eagle's Eyry. All these spots, and the 
traces of many an avalanche and land-slide, may be 
seen by the tourist in sailing down the lake. 

The WiLLOUGHBY Lake House, by Alonzo Bemis, 
is a three-story edifice, located about one hundred rods 
from the lake, and commanding a fine view of it. 
There is a large piazza extending around the house and 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 199 

a promenade deck along the roof. The house is well 
arranged. The sleeping-rooms are spacious, the par- 
lors well furnished, and the tables well provided. Fish 
abound in the lake, and especially the muscalonge, a 
species of pickerel peculiar to the lake. 

Memphremagog Lake. 

Newport, situate on Memphremagog Lake, is sixty- 
five miles from Wells River. The railroad station is 
in the basement of the Memphremagog House, a new 
and fine hotel. This hotel is about 90 by 50 feet, four 
stories high, with an addition 125 by 50 feet, five 
stories high. It is an excellent hotel, and is kept by 
Messrs. Bowman & Rydell. As the steamer leaves 
Newport in the morning and returns at night, the 
tourist can, if he chooses, make this hotel his head- 
quarters, and spend the day upon the lake. 

The lake is a beautifid sheet of water, extending 
nearly forty miles to the north. It lies partly in Ver- 
mont and partly in Canada. Its width varies from one 
to six miles. The islands, though not numerous, add 
much to the loveliness of the scene. On the western 
side the shore rises abruptly in many places to the 
height of several hundred feet, while on the eastern it 
is comparatively level and well cultivated. As you 
sail along the lake, you see the farm-houses, each with 
its meadows and Avoodland near at hand, indicating a 
prosperous agricultural community. There are sev- 
eral towns and villages of respectable population along 
the shore. 



200 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

At half-past seven o'clock in the morning the steam- 
boat Lady of the Lake will be ready at her wharf, 
near the hotel, to receive her freight. This steamer is 
of iron ; and it was built on the Clyde, expressly for this 
service. By frequently crossing and recrossing the 
lake, the trip from Newport to Outlet Village is not less 
than fifty miles in length, though the lake does not 
exceed forty. Capt. Fogg, who is as pleasant and ac- 
commodating as he looks, was the builder and owner 
of the steamer for which the present was named. He 
is never happier than when he has under his pro- 
tection a party who thoroughly enjoy the beauties of 
the lake. Soon after leaving Newport, he will, if re- 
quested, point out a full-length reclining figure, formed 
by the contour of the hills and mountains beyond Owl's 
Head. 

About half way down the lake, on the western side, 
is situated, on the very shore, Owl's Head Mountain, 
and, nestled in a lovely nook at its base, the Mountain 
House. Owl's Head is 2,743 feet high. A footpath 
leads to its summit, w^hich can be reached in one or 
two hours' climbiug. The origin of the name is 
as yet a puzzle. The mountain is well wooded 
almost to its very summit. But as you emerge from 
the shelter of the woods to the bare rocks on the north- 
ern side, a most beautiful view breaks upon you. 
Immediately at your feet lies the lake, visible for its 
entire length. Every bay and island can be clearly 
seen. Beyond is the level plain, thickly studded with 
farm-houses, with here and there a village and a pond. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 201 

To the south you see, near at hand, the twin peaks of 
Willoughby, as if guarding the gate to the towering 
peaks of the White Mountains, blue in the distance. 
Lake Champlain lies in the west, Massaweepee a little 
to the north, while the St. Lawrence and St. Francis 
can be clearly discerned still farther away. On a clear 
day you can even discover the white towers of Montreal 
glistening in the sun. Owl's Head, from its compara- 
tively isolated position, seems to stand sentinel over the 
golden treasures of the Canadian autumn. You feel, 
while gazing towards the north, that you have escaped 
from the mountain region. 

The Mountain House, by A. C. Jennings, is situ- 
ated at the very base of the mountain. It is so sur- 
rounded by water, hills, and rocks, that, as you 
approach, you almost wonder how it found a resting- 
place in so secluded a spot. The house is three stories 
high, with verandas in front, and is well furnished. 
The table is well supplied, not only with the luxuries 
of the lake, but also with every variety obtainable in 
the region. Mr. Jennings was formerly landlord of 
the Island Pond House, and is well known to the 
public. 

One of the chief attractions of the place is the abun- 
dance of fish. The Muscalonge, a species of fish 
peculiar to the region, is caught in great abundance. 
Twenty pounds is by no means an uncommon weight 
for them to attain. Trout abound in the small ponds 
near by, which can easily be reached. 

About a mile north of the hotel the rocks rise 
almost perpendicularly from the water to the height of 



202 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

some seven hundred feet. The water near the shore, 
though never sounded, probably is as deep as the rocks 
are high. An old fisherman, who lives upon the shore, 
has firm faith that an immense sea-serpent lurks here, 
and has spent days in trying to catch him. Capt. Fogg 
will tell you the story. 

Outlet Village, so called from its situation at the 
outlet of the lake, where, by Magog River, the waters 
are poured into the St. Francis, is the terminus of the 
sail. A good dinner may be obtained on board the 
boat. A stage ride of sixteen miles' brings you to 
Sherbrooke, where the cars of the Grand Trunk Rail- 
way may be taken for Montreal or Quebec. The rail- 
roads up the valley of the Connecticut, the sail over 
Memphremagog, and the Grand Trunk Railway from 
Sherbrooke, form one of the pleasantest and shortest 
routes between New York and Montreal. The time is 
about the same as by other routes, and the variety 
greater. 

At Magog, in addition to the stage connection with 
Sherbrooke, there is a line of coaches to Waterloo, on 
the Stanstead, ShefFord & Chambly Railroad. 

The Lady of the Lake makes but one trip a day, 
leaving Newport in the morning and returning in 
the afternoon, reaching Newport about six o'clock. 
Capt. Fogg, however, lives at Georgetown, about half 
way down the lake, to wdiich he returns on Saturday 
night, after completing his trip to Newport. Of this 
opportunity for a sail all the young people along the 
shore between Georgetown and Newport avail them- 
selves. They go down to Newport, and return in the 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 203 

evening. The steAvard furnishes music, and the prom- 
enade deck a ball-room. The guests at the Mountain 
House, who are to stay over Sunday, will do well to 
avail themselves of this weekly festival, especially if 
the evening be a moonlight one. 

The fare from Newport to Owl's Head is 75 cts. ; 
to Outlet Village, $1.50. 

2. Concord to White Mountains, via Montreal 
Railroad. 

Three different routes are presented to the tourist 
over this road. (1.) He may go to the Wells River, 
thence over the White Mountain Railroad to Little- 
ton, and to Franconia by stage, as by the Northern 
Railroad just described. (2.) He may leave the 
cars at Plymouth, and proceed directly to the Profile 
House by stage. (3.) The cars may be left at the 
Weirs, and the traveller may pursue his journey to the 
White Mountain Notch and Glen House, via Centre 
Harbor and Conway. 

1. Cars to Littleton and Bethlehem. This 
route is shorter than by the Northern Railroad, though 
passengers arrive at the Profile, or tfie Crawford House, 
at the same time. It has the advantage of skirting 
the shores of Lake Winnipesaukee. The distance is 
124 miles ; from Boston, 198. Fare from Boston to 
Franconia, $9.00. Time from Boston, twelve hours. 
During the summer months an express train is run 
from Plymouth in the afternoon, reaching the moun- 
tains nearly two hours earlier than by the regular train. 



204 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

On the return, it leaves nearly two hours after the mail 
train in the morning. This express train does not con- 
nect with the trains over the Passumpsic Railroad at 
Wells River. 

Morning Train to Lancaster. 

In July and August, besides the regular afternoon 
train to Lancaster, there is a special train, leaving 
Plymouth daily at 7.45 A. M., and arriving at Lan- 
caster at 11 A. M., connecting with stage to Profile 
House, arriving there at 1 P. M. This connects at 
Wells River with the morning train from Newport, 
Vt., and with the morning train from White River 
Junction. Returning, the stages leave the Crawford 
House at 12.30 P. M., and the Profile House at 3 
P. M. ; and the train leaves Whitefield at 4.30 P. M., 
arriving at Plymouth at 7 P. M. Tliis train also con- 
nects at Wells River with train up and down the Pas- 
sumpsic Railroad. 

Should the preference be given for the route over the 
Montreal Railroad, the tourist will find the cars of the 
road ready to start^iipon the arrival of the train from 
Boston. The road crosses the Merrimack River soon 
after leaving the Concord station, and continues up 
that river, upon its eastern bank, through the villages 
of Canterbury, Northfiekl, Sanbornton Bridge, — where 
the road crosses a portion of Lake Winnipesaukee, 
called the Great Bay, — Laconia, and Lake Village to 
"Weirs." Here the steamer Lady of the Lake, 
is ready to start for Centre Harbor. A description of 
this lake is given on the 14Gth and following pages. 



WHITE JHOUJ^TMIJV GUIDE. 205 

The ride by rail from Concord to the Weirs, occupy- 
ing a little over an hour, is one of the most agreeable 
to be found in the whole mountain trip. Soon after 
leaving the station at Concord the road winds over the 
intervals of the Merrimack, crosses the river, and rises 
to a considerable elevation above the river bed. This 
enables one to catch some beautiful views across the 
valley of the Merrimack, Avitli Mt. Kearsarge, in An- 
dover, forming the chief attraction. After leaving 
Sanbornton Bridge, Avhere the River Winnipesaukee is 
crossed, the road lies along Lake AVinnisquam, or 
Great Bay, a portion of which is crossed at Laconia, 
the stopping-place for Gilford, where the traveller will 
find a good hotel kept by A. L. Morrison. Mt. Bel- 
knap, four and a half miles distant, is much visited. 
The Canterbury Shakers are only twelve miles distant 
— a pleasant ride. The citizens are very hospitable. 
The lake, also, may be visited from this place. Still 
following the course of the Winnipesaukee River, which 
presents a continual succession of beautiful views, 
with Mt. Belknap constantly in sight, the Wiers is 
reached. 

Those who do not go by the way of the lake, con- 
tinue their journey through Meredith Village and 
Holderness, and arrive at Plymouth soon after noon. 
Having fortified the inner man with the good 'cheer 
of our host, we return to the cars, and proceeding 
through Quincy, Rumney, Wentworth, Warren, and 
Haverhill, with Carr's Mountain, Moosilauke, and 
the spurs of the Franconia range in sight, reach Wells 
River. From this point the train proceeds, without 



206 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

detention, up the valley of the Ammonoosuc, over the 
White Mountain Railroad to Littleton, arriving there 
about 4 o'clock. See page 194. 

MoosiLArKE Mountain, as has just been said, is 
in sight from the road between Plymouth and Wells 
River. As this mountain is one of the highest in the 
vicinity, some tourist may desire to visit it. To do this, 
lie should leave the cars at Warren, twenty miles from 
Plymouth. The Moosilauk House, D. G. Marsh, pro- 
prietor, just enlarged, will here provide for the accom- 
modation of guests. Three or four miles from the vil- 
lage is a lead mine, which is now abandoned. The 
distance from the depot to the base of the mountain is 
five miles. From the base, a carriage road four miles 
lono- has been built to the summit. A comfortable 

o 

hotel, like those on Mt. Washington, has been erected, 
which is kept by David Q. Clement. His price is $4.00 
per day. Prof. A. Guyot also made an excursion to 
this mountain, and we are permitted to make tlie 
following extract from a letter written by him, descrip- 
tive of the view : — 

" The panorama which is before your eyes at the 
summit of Moosilauke is nearly the most extensive 
I have found in New England, not excepting even that 
from Mts. AYashington and Lafayette, over which it 
possesses many advantages. This is due to the insu- 
lated position of that mountain outside of the group of 
the White Mountains proper, combined with its great 
elevation, which surpasses by 1,000 feet to 1,500 feet 
the surrounding heights, while it is less than 500 feet 



WHITE JiIOUJVTjlIJ\r GUIDE, 207 

below the summit of Lafayette. The eye thus em- 
braces at a single glance in the north and north-east 
all the chains of the White Mountain group from 
Lafayette and Mt. Washington to the high peaks of 
the central, southern, and eastern chains in Sandwich 
and Conway. Towards the north-west the view ex- 
tends into Canada ; on the west and south-west the 
whole State of Vermont, Avith its long and continuous 
chain of the Green Mountains ; towards the south and 
east the whole State of New Hampshire, with its innu- 
merable scattered hills and lakes, among which Winni- 
pesaukee is conspicuous, and a part of Maine, complete 
the grand, instructive, raised map which is opened be- 
fore the beholder. Moosilauke, which is now so 
accessible by the way of the Boston, Concord, and 
Montreal Railroad, and by means of a path recently 
cut through the forest to the summit, deserves to take 
a distinguished place among the high summits visited 
by the lovers of mountain scenery." 

The trip from tlie depot to the summit may be made 
in about four hours, and the price for the carriage ride 
up the mountain is $4.00. The fare at the hotel will 
probably be $4.00 a day. 

It is in contemplation to construct a road from 
Warren to Franconia. If this is done, it will be the 
shortest route to Franconia, the distance being only 
fourteen miles from the railroad. From the summit 
of Moosilauke to Franconia the distance is only eight 
miles. 

2. Franconia, via Plymouth. The traveller, as 



208 WHITE MOUJ^TJilJ^ GUIDE. 

we said before, may leave the cars at Plymouth aud 
proceed directly up the valley of the Pemigewasset to 
Franconia. This is, by far, the shortest and most 
direct route to this part of the mountain region. The 
distance from Boston to Franconia is 145 miles ; from 
Concord, 75. The time from Boston is nine hours. 
Leaving New York by the evening boats, one may be 
in Franconia in season for tea the next day. Fare, 
from Boston, $8.00 ; from Concord, $5.25. 

Leaving Concord in the cars, as indicated on page 
203, we arrive at Plytsiouth in season for dinner. 
There are many objects of interest at Plymouth, and 
if one desires to remain and become acquainted with 
the charms of the locality, the Pemigewasset House 
is a desirable tarrying place for all in quest of health 
or pleasure. Plymouth Village has a lovely situation, 
in the midst of the finest scenery. From Walker's 
Hill can be obtained a capital view of the village and 
the river. Livermore's Falls, two miles north of the 
village, present a remarkable appearance. They are 
probably the result of volcanic action, and invite the 
attention of the student of science and the lover of 
nature. Prospect Hill affords an unsurpassed view of 
the most diversified character, and an excursion thither 
is one of the most agreeable methods of spending a 
leisure afternoon. It is but four miles distant from 
the hotel, and a good carriage road has been built to 
its very summit. Mountain, valley, lake, and river, 
interspersed with fertile meadows, shining cottages, 
and thrifty villages, within a circuit of thirty miles, 



WHITE MOUJVT^IJV GUIDE. 209 

meet the delighted eye in every direction, while in the 
north the rugged clilfs and peaks of the Franconia and 
^\Tiite Mountain ranges rise like everlasting towers. 
This is considered by some, the finest view south of 
the mountains. The late Gov. Hill, Avho visited the 
summit several years ago, spoke of it in the most en- 
thusiastic terms. The towns in both the valleys of 
the Pemigewasset and Baker's River, are to be seen 
below. Chocorua in the east, Belknap in the south, 
Monadnock in the south-west, Moosehillock in the 
north-west, and the Franconia and White Mountain 
ranges in the north, lift their summits before the 
delighted eye. The silvery sheen of Squam and Win- 
nipesaukee brightens the landscape. The beautiful 
valley of the Pemigewasset, dotted with elms, winds 
gracefully to the south, indicating the course of the 
river, by its fertile meadoAvs, far in the distance. 

The Pemigewasset House, at Plymouth, which is 
situated on the side of the railroad track, is a new and 
excellent hotel just erected. The old Pemigewasset 
House, which stood on the same site, was destroyed 
by fire in 1862. The new hotel, which is without ex- 
ception the finest in the State, is 230 feet in front, with 
a wing of 80 feet, and is four stories high. There are 
130 sleeping rooms, all of which are lighted by gas, 
and are large and commodious. There are also many 
suites of rooms for families. The parlor is a large 
and spacious apartment, elegantly furnished, fronting 
the south. The dining-room is a spacious hall, on the 
main floor, lighted by large Avindows, and without a 
14 



210 WHITE J\IOUJVT^JJV GUIDE. 

single column or pillar to mar its symmetry. The 
office is also a commodious hall in the centre of the 
house, with a stairway leading from the railway plat- 
form below. On the roof is a large observatory, from 
which may be had a fine view of the valleys of the 
Baker and Pemigewasset Rivers, and also of Lafayette, 
Osceola, and almost the entire range of the Waterville 
and Franconia Mountains. No pains have been spared 
to make this hotel complete in every particular, to 
finish it in a style of which even city hotels need not 
be ashamed, and it is well adapted to the wants of a 
first-class summer hotel. It is now under the charge 
of C. M. Morse, manager, who will make every 
exertion to give satisfaction. The passenger depot of 
the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad is in the 
basement, rendering it very convenient for those passing 
through Plymouth to dine. Plymouth has always been 
a favorite place of resort, and will now be doubly so 
since the erection of the new hotel. 

Good trout-fishing may be found at "Waterville, 
eighteen miles distant. This village is a very delight- 
ful retreat, and by the initiated is considered the gem 
of this locality. It was formerly the resort of a few 
visitors who "knew" the mountains, and whose tales 
of beautiful scenery, magnificent trout-fishing, and the 
like, stimulated public curiosity. 

Devil's Den is a cave from three to four hundred 
feet deep, and is situated in Campton Hollow, six miles 
distant from Plymouth. 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ\r GUIDE. 211 

If the traveller desires to be independent of stage 
coaches and railroads, in his farther travels through 
the mountains, he can obtain horses and drivers at the 
livery stables in the village. Should the tourist prefer 
the stage coach to the rail from Plymouth, he will 
enjoy a most delightful ride of twenty-nine miles to the 
Profile House, tracing the course of the PemigcAvas- 
set River. The road in some places is rather rough, 
but the weariness of the way is amply compensated by 
the variety of beautiful objects that are every where 
presented to the view. The river meanders in its 
winding course, now with placid and quiet current 
through green meadows, and now in rapid and head- 
long torrent over its pebbly bed, while little cascades 
are bursting from the hills, falling in sheeted foam over 
the opposing rocks, to make their way to the welcom- 
ing stream below. As the route leaves the village, the 
mountains begin to appear in the distance. As the dis- 
tance lessens, the white porticos of the Flume House 
are seen, welcoming our approach. The hotel seems 
like a " nest among the mountains," as it is relieved 
by the dark mass amid which it rests. The little vil- 
lages of Campton and Thornton are the resort of 
artists, Avho spend Aveeks in the vicinity, sketching for 
future studies. Campton is said to contain more points 
for fine prospects than any town in the neighborhood. 
A quiet little inn upon the roadside looks the abode of 
comfort. Woodstock and Lincoln are small towns, of 
no particular note. The road is now in the midst of 
the mountain region. The dark hills loom up on every 



212 WHITE MOU^TT^I^r GUIDE. 

side as the day departs. The Pemigewasset, now re- 
duced to a little brook, murmurs at our feet. We 
have seen the summits of the hills brighten in the rich 
glow of sunset. The clouds are tinged with golden 
light, changing to soft purple and the gray of evening. 
The stars come out ; the moon sends her gentle rays 
down into the valley. In the late twilight, after a half 
day's exquisite enjoyment, we enter the delightful and 
quiet scenery of the Notch road, passing the Flume 
House, and soon alight beneath the grateful shelter of 
the Profile House. The stage fare from Plymouth 
is $3.50. 

3. White Mountain Notch, via Conway, Lake 
Winnipesaukee, and Concord. Distance from Boston, 
172 miles ; time, 36 hours ; fare, $10.00. 

At the Weirs (thirty-two miles from Concord, 106 
from Boston, and seventy-three from White Mountain 
Notch), Ave leave the cars of the Boston, Concord, and 
Montreal Railroad (see page 203), and find ourselves 
on Lake Winnipesaukee. The route from this point is 
described on the 146th and following pages. The trav- 
eller can leave the lake as there indicated either at 
Centre Harbor or Wolf borough, or he can return to 
the Weirs and proceed, via Plymouth, as already sug- 
gested. The route via Conway is the most leisurely 
approach to Mount Washington, but yet one of the 
most attractive. 

Y. New York to Concord, N. H., by way of 
Worcester, Nashua, and Manchester. The traveller 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIM GUIDE. 213 

may leave NeAv York in the morning by route No. lY., 
page 171, and go to "Worcester. From Worcester he 
will proceed to Xashua, and arrive at Concord at eight 
P. M., and leave for the mountains by routes above 
at 10.30 the next morning. Distance, 275 miles. 
Fare, $7.50. Or he may leave in the evening over 
the same route, or by the boat to New London, route 
No. III., page 170, and, waiting at Worcester till 
morning, proceed to Concord, arriving in season to go 
to the mountains by the same trains as before. Fare 
by boat, $6.75. 

Should the preference be given to the Railroad line, 
the traveller will take the cars of the New York and 
New Haven Railroad, Avhich skirts the northern shore 
of Long Island Sound for a considerable distance, 
thence passing through New Haven, Hartford, and 
Springfield to Worcester. Here we join the line of 
travel from New York, via New London, already 
described. From Worcester our route lies over the 
Worcester and Nashua Railroad, which passes through 
a number of small towns of considerable thrift. We at 
length reach Nashua, and, changing to the cars of the 
Concord Railroad, continue the route as described on 
the 190th and following pages. 

VI. New York to Franconia, via Springfield 
and Bellows Falls. Distance to Bellows Falls, 222 
miles ; fare, $6.00. Cars leave New York at eight 
o'clock, A. M., arrive at Bellows Falls at six o'clock, 
V: M., stopping at Springfield half an hour for dinner. 



214 WHITE MOUJVTAIJV GUIDE. 

Railroads : New York and New Haven ; New Haven 
and Springfield ; Connecticut River ; Vermont Valley. 

From New York to Springfield the route is the 
same as described on the 212th page. At Springfield, 
we take the cars of the Connecticut River Railroad, 
and continue up the valley of the river. 

Also leaving the depot on 27th Street, New York, 
at 12.15 (noon), the train arrives at White River 
Junction at 11.45 P. M. Passing the night at 
the hotel near the depot, the tourist may leave White 
River Junction at 8.20 the next morning, and arrive 
at the Profile House at 1 o'clock. Another train leaves 
New York at 3 o'clock P. M., arriving at Springfield 
at 8.20, where the night must be passed. The next 
morning at 7.50 the train leaves for the mountains, 
arriving at Littleton at 5 P. M., in season for tlie even- 
ing stages to the Profile House and AVhite Mountain 
Notch. Another train leaves New York at 8 P. M., 
arriving at Springfield at 1 A. M., whence the tourist 
may proceed at 7.50 A. M., as just mentioned. New 
York may also be left by boat to New Haven from 
Peck Slip, arriving at Springfield at 10 P. M., and 
proceeding the next morning as already described. All 
these routes are by the pleasant Connecticut River, 
whose scenery is unsurpassed. The distance from New 
York to the Profile House is 322 miles, being shorter 
than by any other route. 

On the return, leaving the Profile House in the morn- 
ing. New York is reached by rail at 10.45 P. M. Or 
leaving the train at Springfield at 6 P. M., time is af- 
forded for tea, and by the steamboat train a connection 
is made with the New Haven boat, arriving at New 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 215 

York the next morning. By leaving the Crawford 
House at 12.30 P. M., and the Profile House at 3 P. M., 
New York may be reached at 12.30 P. M. the next 
day. 

The Connecticut River Railroad extends from Spring- 
field to South Vernon, Vt. At this place an oppor- 
tunity is presented of visiting Keene, the most impor- 
tant town in south-western New Hampshire, by taking 
the cars of the Ashuelot Railroad. From Keene, 
the traveller can proceed over the Cheshire Railroad 
to Bellows Falls, within sight of Monadnock. Should 
he choose not to diverge at South Vernon, he will take 
the cars of the Vermont Valley Railroad, and at six 
o'clock P. M. will be very glad to step from the 
cars at 

Bellows Falls, distant from New York 222 
miles. This is a delightfully situated village, on the 
Vermont side of the Connecticut River. The Island 
House, by AVhite & Ball, a short distance from the 
station, occupies a favorable site. It is a new and 
well-built structure, and furnishes a quiet home either 
for the invalid or the pleasure-seeker. Directly in 
the rear rises a lofty hill, presenting a fine view from 
its summit, which is easily reached. There is also a 
view obtainable from the bridge over the Connecticut, 
in this place, well worthy of the tourist's attention. 
The river, which above is deep, broad, and tranquil, 
with a width of about a thousand feet, and which below 



216 WHITE MCUJVTJlTJ^ GUIDE. 

expands to an equal or greater surface, is, at this spot, 
beneath the bridge, compressed within a very narrow 
channel. Tlirough this channel, confined on either 
side by a high granite wall, the whole volume of the 
Connecticut is forced, with a power and rapidity which 
whiten its waters like a tide of snow-flakes. The fall 
is in no place perpendicular, but in the distance of half 
a mile the waters descend forty-two feet. These falls 
were formerly a favorite resort of the Indians for pur- 
poses of fishing. Salmon were caught here in great 
numbers till within a recent period. Just below the 
bridge, on the west side of the river, will be noticed a 
large flat rock, covered w^ith hieroglyphics and rude 
portraits, supposed to have been cut by the aboriginal 
frequenters of this place. 

On the following morning Ave proceed north over 
the Sullivan Railroad, leaving Bellows Falls about 
noon. Twenty-six miles from Bellows Falls the road 
again crosses the river. As the cars run up the valley, 
the traveller will notice Mt. Ascutney, on the Vermont 
side, 3,200 feet high, and of easy ascent. Along the 
banks of the river, and at the base of tlie hills, the eye 
will be gratified with the sight of numerous neat and 
pleasant farm-houses, w^hose outward appearance be- 
tokens the comfort and happiness of their inmates. 

Taking the cars of the Vermont Central Railroad, 
we continue our journey, through Hartland and North 
Hartland, to AYhite River Junction. The remainder 
of this route is the same as described on the 19 2d 
and following pages. 



white mountain guide. 217 

New York to Franconia, 
via Long Island Sound and New London Northern 
Railroad. New York is left by same boat as route III., 
page 170. On arriving at New London, instead of 
proceeding to Boston, the traveller can rest quietly till 
morning on board the boat. The train leaves on the 
New London Northern Railroad at 5 o'clock A. M., 
arriving at Palmer at 7.45, where twenty minutes is al- 
lowed for breakfast. There is one change of cars at 
Brattleboro', dinner at White River Junction, and the 
time of arrival at Newport, Profile House, or the 
Crawford House, is the same as by the other lines. 
The advantages are a good night's sleep and less travel 
by rail. 

On the return, leaving the mountains in the morn- 
ing, connection is made with the boat at New London 
at 9.23 P. M. Supper may be had on board the boat 
or at Palmer, as may be desired, and New York will 
be reached at 6 A. M. 

This route carries the tourist across the States of 
Connecticut and Massachusetts and through the valley 
of the Connecticut River. As far as White River 
Junction, the line is now controlled by the Vermont 
Central Railroad Company. If the tourist is on his 
way to Mt. Mansfield, hereafter described, he will con- 
tinue his journey from White River Junction to Water- 
bury, Vermont, when he will take a stage for Mansfield. 
For Montreal he will continue on the same route, via 
St. Albans, while for Quebec, this forms now the most 
direct route, via White River Junction, and the Pas- 
sumpsic Railroad. 



218 WHITE MOUXfTAIJ^ OUIDE. 

VII. New York to Franconia, via North River 
and Bellows Falls, Vt. Distance to Bellows Falls, 
287 miles. Leave by boat or railroad, 6.30 and 7 
A. M. ; arrive at Rutland, 9 P. M. Leave Rutland, 
5.45 A. M. ; arrive at Bellows Falls 8.30 A. M. 
Fares, by boat to Albany, $5 ; by rail, $7. Rail- 
roads : Hudson River ; Washington and Rutland, or 
Western Vermont ; Rutland and Burlington. 

The Hudson River, sometimes called the Rhine of 
America, is so well known and so well described in 
guide-books written specially for the route, that it 
needs no comment here. For the journey to Albany, 
the summer tourist has his choice of travel. If he 
desires speed, he can step on board the comfortable 
Hudson River Railroad cars, and run his own risk of 
sight-seeing. If he wishes to enjoy the scenery, let 
him select some fine day, and take one of the day boats 
to Albany. 

A few miles above Albany is Troy, on the east bank 
of the Hudson. It can be reached by rail to West 
Troy, and thence by carriage, or by the more popular 
route from Albany by ferry to Greenbush, and thence 
by rail to Troy, — the cars running at short intervals, 
and connecting immediately at both places with all the 
trains north, east, south, and Avest. 

Leaving Troy, the traveller has a choice of two 
routes to Rutland, Vt., one over the Troy and Boston 
Road to Eagle Bridge, connecting there with the 
Rutland and Washingon Railroad, or over the same 
road to North Bennington, connecting there with the 
Western Vermont Railroad. 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 219 

The route over the Western Vermont Railroad passes 
through Shaftesbury, Arlington, and Sunderland, 
all pleasant villages, to Manchester, one of the finest 
towns in this section of Vermont. A capital hotel has 
been opened here, within the last few years, called the 
Equinox House, and is beginning to be a place of great 
resort, on account of the natural beauties of the place, 
the fine drives in the neighborhood, and the reasonable 
prices for the excellent accommodations which are 
afforded. 

There is a third route from Troy to Rutland by way 
of Saratoga, passing through Ballston. Leaving 
Saratoga by the Saratoga and Washington Railroad, 
the traveller passes to Castleton, there joining the 
Rutland and Washington Road. The times of arrival 
on all these routes are very nearly the same. 

Rutland is the shire town of Rutland county, and 
is one of the most important places of central and 
southern Vermont, containing about 4000 inhabitants. 

The central village is a thriving, comfortable place. 
The Bardwell House, situated very nearly opposite the 
Railroad Station, is a fine structure of brick, contain- 
ing one hundred commodious rooms, and is altogether 
just such a home as the tourist desires after a hard day's 
travel. The charges are moderate, the table is well 
furnished and attended, the rooms are neat, clean, and 
abundantly supplied ; all substantial comforts are pro- 
vided without offensive display. Situated as Rutland 
is, at the junction of four railroad routes, and within 
easy distance of Lakes Champlain and George, and 



220 WHITE MOUJ^T^JJV GUIDE, 

almost in the midst of the mountains, it is a most de- 
sirable place for summer resort. The extensive Marble 
Quarries, the Springs at Clarendon, celebrated for their 
medicinal qualities, Sutherland Falls, called by Willis 
" one of the loveliest places in the Avorld," and Killing- 
ton Peak, nearly 4000 feet high, the loftiest peak of 
the Green Mountains in this region, are all in the im- 
mediate vicinity, and can be visited at a small expense ; 
while " mine host " will see that in-door arrangements 
for good living are not wanting. The disciple of Izaak 
"Walton will find the best of trout-fishing in the neigh- 
boring streams, ponds, and lakes, and declare with 
Izaak, that angling " has a calmness of spirit, and a 
world of other blessings attending upon it," as he 
spends the long days of summer in his favorite sport. 

Rutland is distant from Troy 83 miles ; Albany, 93 ; 
New York, 234; Bellows Falls, 53; Boston, 167; 
Whitehall, N. Y., 25 ; Saratoga Springs, 63 ; Lake 
George, 60 miles. On the north is Burlington, 67 
miles, and farther still, Montreal, 167 miles. Fares 
are as follows : from Burlington, $2.75 ; Montreal, 
$6.00 ; Troy, $3.50 ; Albany, $3.65 ; New York, by 
railroad, $6.50 ; by steamboat, $5.50 ; Whitehall, 
$1.20 ; Saratoga, $2.55 ; Bellows Falls, $2.30 ; Bos- 
ton, $6.25. 

On leaving Rutland, should the tourist prefer to ride 
across the country by carriage, sending his baggage by 
rail, he can easily procure horses, and proceed to 
White River Junction, through a most delightful 
region of country. A daily stage also runs between 



WHITE J\IOUM'T^IJ\r auiDE. 221 

Rutland, "Woodstock, and White River. The distance 
is nearly forty miles, and can be travelled in a day, if 
one chooses, though the attractions of the way might 
Avell cause him to linger on the route. This road 
passes through the Green Mountain range to Wood- 
stock. This quiet and charming town is the county 
seat of Windsor county, and contains a celebrated Med- 
ical College, and an Arsenal belonging to the United 
States. It has a population of little more than 3000. 

Should the choice fall upon travelling by rail, the 
tourist will find the pleasantest scenery all along the 
Rutland Railroad. The stations are at some distance 
from the villages, whose inhabitants the road accommo- 
dates, with but one or two exceptions. The trains 
arrive at Belloavs Falls in 2^ hours from Rutland. 

Bellows Falls, by this route, is distant from New 
York 287 miles. Fares by this route from New York, 
by rail, $7.00 ; by boat to Albany, $5.00. 

From this point he continues up the valley of the 
Connecticut to White River, and thence by Littleton to 
Franconia, as on the 192nd and following pages. 

VIII. NEW YORK TO PROFILE HOUSE AND WHITE 
MOUNTAIN NOTCH, VIA ALBANY AND LAKE CHAM- 
PLAIN. 

Distance from New York to Whitehall, 223 miles ; 
Whitehall to Burlington, by steamer, 70 miles ; Bur- 
lington to Profile House, 160 miles. Fare, by day 
boat, $14.35 ; by night boat, $13.85 ; by H. R. R., 
$14.95. Burlington to White Mountain Notch, 173 



222 WHITE MOUJ^T^IJV QUIDji:. 

miles. Fare from New York, by day boat, $15.85 ; by 
night boat, $16.35 ; by H. R. R, $16.45. 

By this route the traveller leaves New York by the 
same conveyance as in No. VII. From Albany to 
Whitehall the route lies through Saratoga Springs, 
giving the tourist an opportunity of tarrying at this 
favorite place of resort. From Whitehall there is 
direct communication by steamer over Lake Cham- 
lain to Burlington. From Burlington, by the Vermont 
Central Railroad, the route lies across the State of 
Vermont, passing through Waterbury, the station for 
Mansfield Mountain, to White River Junction, and 
from this point to Littleton and the Mountains, as on 
page 192. 

If it is desired to include Lake George in the trip, 
the cars may be left at Moreau, sixteen miles from 
Saratoga, from which place a stage-ride of eighteen 
miles brings one to Lake Greorge. The steamer Min- 
nehaha traverses thirty-six miles on the lake to Pell 
Place, from which a stage-ride of four miles brings us 
to Fort Ticonderoga, where the steamer is taken for 
Burlington. 

IX. NIAGARA FALLS TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 
I. The tourist, in reaching the White Mountains 
from Niagara, generally proceeds by steamer to Mon- 
treal, and thence by the Grand Trunk Railway to Gor- 
ham, N. H. The whole distance is about 650 miles, 
and the time, allowing one night at Montreal, a little 
over two days. The fare varies from one season to 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ^ GUIDE. 223 

another, and often even during tlie same season. 
Through tickets to Boston can be purchased at Niagara 
for about $16, allowing the traveller to stop over at 
Montreal and at the Mountains, and then to resume 
his journey by the way of Portland. But it should be 
observed that the merest trifle, save the relief from the 
trouble of frequently purchasing tickets, is gained by 
this course. On the contrary, much may be lost in 
respect of freedom in the choice of routes at subsequent 
points of the trip. The tourist on this route is advised, 
therefore, at tlie first to secure tickets from Niagara 
to Montreal only. 

II. Some travellers prefer to cross the head of Lake 
Ontario to Toronto, about 40 miles from Niagara, and 
then to proceed the remainder of the way by rail, thus 
avoiding the night on the lake. Leaving Niagara in 
the afternoon, they arrive at Toronto in time for the 
night mail train on the Grand Trunk Railway, and 
reach Montreal the next morning. By such a course 
several hours in the middle of the day can be passed 
at Montreal, and the Mountains still be reached the 
next morning after, within forty-five hours of leaving 
Niagara. This is the quickest route. If, however, 
the tourist prefer a quiet night at Toronto, the Express 
Train will take him to Montreal the next day in about 
thirteen hours, and allow him to reach the Mountains 
just as soon as if he had made the whole trip by the 
steamer, and spent the night on the lake. 

III. Some tourists entirely avoid the lake, which 
is often very rough in crossing to Toronto, by proceed- 



224 WHITE MOUJrTAIJ^ GUIDE. 

ing round the head of it by the Great Western Railway- 
to Toronto, a distance of ninety miles, occupying not 
far from four hours. They have still the opportunity 
of taking a steamer at the foot of the lake in time to 
pass through the Thousand Isles and the far-famed 
Rapids. 

IV. The cars may be left at Sherbrooke, and the 
tourist may visit the beautiful Lake Memphremagog, 
and thence proceed down the Connecticut to White 
River Junction, and thence to Franconia or the White 
Mountain Notch, as is described on page 192. 

V. Montreal may be left by the Champlain and 
St. Lawrence Railway to St. John's ; thence by the 
Vermont and Canada to Essex Junction ; thence by 
White River Junction to Franconia. 

VI. The Grand Trunk may be left at Ogdensburg, 
and the traveller may proceed directly to Rouse's Point 
over the Ogdensburg Railroad. By this route the sail 
down the St. Lawrence is lost, and the city of Montreal 
left unvisited. 

Mansfield Mountain. 

By route V., just mentioned, the tourist passes very 
near to Mt. Mansfield, situated not far from the beau- 
tiful village of Stowe, Vt. We should fail to do our 
duty did we not call the attention of tourists among 
the mountains to this charming spot, which is so attrac- 
tive for its mountain views, and is so near one of the 
great highways of travel. 

Stowe is distant 10 miles from Waterbury, a station 



WHITE MOU^TTAIJ^ GUIDE. 225 

on the Vermont Central Railroad, 70 miles north of 
White River Junction. The mail and express trains 
both stop at this station. Tourists from Montreal, via 
Rouse's Point, pass through it, while those leaving the 
mountains, via Littleton, have only to take the train 
on the Vermont Central Road at White River Junction. 
Through tickets from Boston to the summit of Mans- 
field Mountain can also be obtained at the office of the 
Vermont Central Railroad in Boston. 

Waterbury is a small and quiet country village. A 
company has been organized, and has erected a large 
and commodious hotel near the depot, w^hich is now 
open for the accommodation of guests. 

Camel's Hump in the immediate vicinity, is the 
highest peak of the Green Mountains, except Mansfield 
Mountain, and is easily accessible from this place. 
The summit is 4,188 feet above the sea-level, and com- 
mands a magnificent view in all directions. It is easy 
of ascent, and the trip can be accomplished with incon- 
siderable fatigue. A few miles below the village are 
Bolton Falls, exceedingly picturesque, and the delight 
of beauty -loving travellers. 

Stages leave Waterbury for Stowe regularly on the 
arrival of the mail trains ; and special stages leave on 
the arrival of the other trains when any considerable 
party desires conveyance. The distance is 10 miles, 
over what was once a plank road, and is now a very 
comfortable stage road. The time is an hour and a 
half or two hours, and the fare $1.00. 

15 



226 white mouj^taim ouide. 

The Mansfield House 
will be reached by the traveller from the south about 
half past six o'clock P. M. This is a new hotel 
just erected by the Mansfield Hotel Co., under the im- 
mediate superintendence of their accomplished Presi- 
dent, W. H. H. Bingham, Esq.* Mr. Bingham resides 
in Stowe, and, by his unceasing labors and thorough 
acquaintance with the mountains here, has gained for 
himself the title of " King of the Mansfield Moun- 
tains." The hotel occupies the site on which formerly 
stood the modest inn that once sufficed for the wants 
of travellers, and which now forms one of the wings 
of the new building. It is a large and elegant struc- 
ture, Avith a piazza running the entire length of the 
front. Being ncAvly and thoroughly built, with all the 
modern improvements of plumbing, and of bathing 
rooms, lighted throughout with gas, with large parlors, 
spacious lodging-rooms, a fine, large dining-room, and 
a hall over the dining-room of equal size for dancing 
and evening entertainments, it cannot fail to be an at- 
tractive place of resort. It is the largest and best ap- 
pointed hotel in the state of Vermont. The manager, 
Mr. Bingham, is well known to the many people 
who have visited Stowe and its pleasant environs. 
The public can be assured that this hotel Avill be well 
kept and deserve their patronage. The price per day 
is $3.50, with a considerable discount by the week. 

There arc many cbjocts of attraction at Stowe, and 
iiijuiy beautiful rides and excursions can be made to 

* Spo A-^l'I'^iirla. 



WHITE MOUJ^T^IJ^ GUIDE. 227 

the country in the vicinity. The chief of all, however, 
and the one to which we would first call attention, is the 

Ascent op Mansfield Mountain. 

This mountain is of peculiar shape. By an exer- 
cise of the imagination, the summits can be made to 
resemble the profile of the human face, lying supine. 
The forehead, the nose, the chin, are all thus projecting 
upwards. The chin, the highest summit, is at an ele- 
vation of about 4,400 feet above the sea-level, and is the 
highest of the Avhole Green Mountain range. 

The ascent from Stowe is made by carriage to within 
a mile and a half of the nose, and the rest of the way 
on horseback. The distance from the hotel to the 
summit is nine miles. For five miles the road is over 
the usual travelled highway. At the mountain base 
the road branches off and the ascent commences. The 
path, however, is not very steep, and is kept in excel- 
lent order. Two miles and a half of a pretty steady 
ascent, for the greater part of the way through a pleas- 
ant forest, brings the traveller to the half-way house. 
One must not fail to improve the time, while waiting 
for the ponies to be saddled, to look at the magnificent 
view spread out before him. At his feet lie the lovely 
valley of Stowe, which has just been left, and thf 
smooth, green farms, and, beyond, the hills and higher 
summits of the Green Mountains. If the air be very 
clear, the summit of Mt. Washington is dimly visible, 
though almost hidden by the nearer hills. A clear 
spring of pure water, a little distance from the stable, 



228 WHITE j\iouJVTJiiJ\r guide. 

may be visited before starting on the ascent of the 
remainder of the peak. 

Tlie bridle-path is by no "means steep or tiresome. 
On account of the short distance to be traversed on 
horseback, this mountain presents peculiar attractions 
to those who dislike horseback exercise. For the 
greater part of the way the view is hidden by the trees, 
but here and there we catch glimpses of a wooded 
ravine extending to the very base of the mountain and 
far a\vay to the north towards Smuggler's Notch, 
through whose frowning walls are pleasant vistas, 
closed in the distance by beautiful green fields. 

The Summit House. 
is situated at the very base of the Nose. It is owned 
by the Mansfield Hotel Company, and is under the 
charge of Mr. William P. Walker. The main part 
of the house, in which is the large reception room and' 
ofiice, as well as sleeping rooms, is fifty by thirty feet. 
The ell is forty by twenty-four feet, and contains the 
dining-room, while the kitchen is still farther in the 
rear. The house is neatly and thoroughly finished 
and furnished, and is quite as comfortable as many 
larger hotels nearer sea-level. It is a far more complete 
hotel than any other summit house in New England. 
It is also more favorably situated, being near the sum- 
mit of the mountain, full 4000 feet above sea-level, 
and yet commanding the fine view towards the west of 
the valley of Stowe, the wooded side of Mansfield 
being visible to its very base, with no intervening sum- 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ\r GUIDE. 229 

mit to obstruct the vision, and the scene being closed 
in only by the White Mountain range. It is distant 
nine miles from the Mansfield House ; the time of the 
ascent is usually about three hours, and the price for 
each person, including pony, is $3.00. The company 
own the livery stable near the hotel, and have a good 
supply of trusty horses for this as well as for other 
excursions. Orders can be given at the office of the 
Mansfield House, which will be promptly attended to. 
The price of board at the Summit House is $3.50 per 
day. 

The Nose and the Chin. 
are the names of the two highest peaks. The former 
towers directly over the Summit House. It is ascended 
by a rough path on the western side, far more resem- 
bling a flight of stairs than the slope of a mountain 
side. The northern side presents a steep and sheer 
precipitous descent, down which you may look from 
the summit at least 500 feet. Several large pieces of 
the cliff have been detached from time to time and 
fallen in ruins below, and it seems by no means im- 
probable that others may share their fate. The Nose 
is only a short walk from the hotel. 

To ascend the Chin, however, requires more time, 
though the journey is less fatiguing. There is no such 
precipitous ascent, but the mountain slopes gently away 
towards the hotel. It is distant about a mile and a 
half from the house, and consequently takes a longer 
time than the ascent of the Nose, as you must walk 



V 

230 WHITE Mouj\rTjiiJ\r guide. 

the whole distance. It is some 300 feet higher than 
the Nose, and commands, in consequence, a more ex- 
tended view. 

The scene that is spread out before the eye, on either 
of the summits, is extremely beautiful. It differs from 
the views from the greater part of the White Moun- 
tains, as there, in whatever direction you look, nothing 
is to be seen but the rugged mountain tops, with the 
valleys here and there between. While here, besides 
a similar view towards the east, you have spread out 
before you, on the M^est, the fertile land of Western 
Vermont, comparatively level, though here and there 
diversified by hills, bordered by the silver waters of 
Lake Champlain, with the blue Adirondack Hills in 
the far distance beyond. To one fresh from the 
White Mountains, this view is singularly attractive. 
You see the farm-houses clustering into villages ; you 
can follow the courses of the winding streams among 
the hills and forests ; you can clearly see the dark 
green of the waving grain, and can almost distinguish 
the farmers at their toils. Among the peaks of the 
White Mountains you only see occasional traces of 
civilization, and it is the wildness that chiefly is im- 
pressed upon the mind. But here there seems to be 
another and a different sensation. The beauty of the 
landscape, the feeling that all this pleasant land is filled 
with life, together with the suggestion of the distant 
Adirondacks, that within their dark recesses is con- 
cealed an undiscovered world of loveliness, combine to 
enchain one irresistibly to the spot. 



WHITE Moum-Am avwE. 231 

.1 .,v hP seen the hills of Montreal, and, 
To the north may be sen ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^.^^ 

'" a sunshmy '^^ ^^^^ „„ U,e lake shore by the 
Burr,ngton can b td uuh ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^._^^ ^_.^_^^ 

same means. ^'> " ^^^^^.^^^^^ „,,a,, lies stretched 

view, in the souui ^^ 

the Green Mountam range. ^ "^ ' ;^ ^^^.,, j,. 

^-\"riti;;".:-s::n^— ee. 

^^ On rh wa'; oTe Chin may be seen, in many places 
,rnines^narUedon.e rocks, ina^^^^^^ 

:::r;:rb::rc-^^^^^^^^^^ 

ruthe^inestl^ymadeinreac^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
ible a feAV feet from tliem. iHese ai 

this excursion to the V^inn, <^^^ ^ 
shouldbespentuponthe — am ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ 

Ou the eastern side of the iNo.e ^ 

Summit House will point out to you the Old Man ot 

of course, rivalling in regularity of features 
Man" of Franconia. 



2^2 WHITE MOVJ\rTJlIJV GUIDE. 

Moss Glen Falls. 

Another trip to be made from the Mansfield House 
— and for this we would advise an early morning 
ride — is to Moss Glen Falls. These falls are to be 
found in a ravine of singular formation about four 
miles from the hotel, on one of the lower ridges on 
the north-eastern slope of Worcester Mountain. The 
source of the stream is a small pond on the table land 
above the bluff, which is about two hundred feet in 
height. The solid cliff seems here to have been cleft 
asunder, and the perpendicular walls are left standing 
in their majesty. 

The same arrangement exists here, as at Catskill 
Falls, for increasing the volume of water, which in 
summer is often very low. But the dam and head of 
water are under the control of the proprietor of the 
saw-mill, who does not approve of having the water 
run to waste for the mere amusement of visitors. You 
will be fortunate, then, if you happen to visit the falls 
when there is a good head of water. The best point 
of view is about fifty feet up the cliff, on the side near- 
est the highway. 

The charge for a team is S2.00 if less than three go, 
and 75 cents each for a larger number. 

The Smuggler's Notch 
must also be visited. It is a narrow mountain pass, 
said to be worn out by the action of water, to which a 
carriage road has just been built. A small hotel has 



WHITE MOUJ^TAIJ\r GUIDE. 2? 3 

been erected in it by the Hotel Company, so that shel- 
ter can always be had. It is nine miles distant from 
the Mansfield House, and the charges for conveyance 
are the same as to the summit. The pass is wild and 
impressive. Huge bowlders have fallen from the 
mountain side, on which large trees are now growing. 
To the largest of them has been given the name of 
Brigham's Rock. There is here also a mammoth 
spring, with clear cold water flowing at all times in 
great abundance. There are traditions that this pass 
was formerly used by smugglers to carry on their con- 
traband trade, and it seems well suited for that pur- 
pose, if the object was to cross easily from one side of 
the mountain to the other. 



"We have completed the description of the routes to 
the Mountains, as well as the description of the Moun- 
tains themselves. We have seen that all the various 
routes from New York are condensed, in reality, to 
three, as we approach the mountain region : one leaves 
us at Gorham, on the eastern side ; the second at 
White Mountain Notch ; and the third at Franconia. 
Upon w^hat particular route the choice may fall, we 
would urge that the whole range, from Franconia to 
the " Glen," be visited if possible. In no other way 
can a complete idea of all the beauty and loveliness 
of this "Switzerland of America" be gained. It is 
well, also, to go by one and return by another route. 
Tickets to and through the region should not be pur- 



234 WHITE moujsttjiijv guide. 

chased at a distance, as circumstances may render it 
desirable to vary from a plan first laid down. Travel- 
lers coming from the Canadas, either by Rouse*s Point 
or by the Grand Trunk Hallway, should especially 
avoid purchasing through tickets with privilege of 
visiting the mountains on their journey. To use these 
tickets, travellers are compelled to leave the mountains 
at the place where they first approached, and must 
thus, frequently, needlessly retrace their steps. 

For a more detailed description of the routes along 
the sea coast, and for a full description of the various 
places of resort on the sea shore in New England, from 
Newport, east, see " Eastman's Eastern Coast 
Guide." 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 235 



ADDENDA. 



The Alpine House 

was burned in the fall of 1872, and no hotel has yet 
been erected in its place. 

The SuMftiiT House 

has been replaced by a large and commodious Hotel 
and Station House, erected by the Railway Company. 
Though not quite completed at the time of publication 
of this book, it will be ready for the summer travel of 
1873. It will contain comfortable rooms and be well 
kept, so that the tourist may hereafter get as good a 
dinner on the top of Mt. Washington as at the 
hotels at the base. 

The Fabyan House. 

At the old Fabyan place, a new hotel has just been 
erected, which will be opened for the travel in August. 
It occupies the sight of the Giant's grave, which was 
levelled off for the purpose. It is to be called by the 
name of its famous predecessor, and is to be kept by 



236 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

Messrs. Walcott, Lindsay, & French, who so long 
were the managers of the Crawford House. This 
hotel will be the largest in the mountain region, and 
will be fully up to the times in every particular. Its 
situation is a desirable one. It commands one of the 
best views of the Mt. Washington range that the 
region affords. It is near the termini of the rail- 
roads, and also within reach of the Notch and Mt. 
Willard by a pleasant drive. 

Mt. Lafayette. 

A new bridle path has been built this year (1873) 
for the lower half of the ascent of Mt. Lafayette. The 
road winds up the ravine just south of Eagle CHff, 
leaving the highway almost opposite the hotel. It 
shortens the distance some three miles. 

WOLFEBOEOUGH, 

since the opening of the branch raih'oad, is quite the 
centre of attraction about the Lake. It has always 
been a favorite place of resort. This year a new hotel 
called the " Glendon House " has been erected, and 
is now oijeu for travel. 



GENERAL VIEW OE ROUTES. 



NEW YORK TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS BY W^Y OP 
BOSTON. 

1(a). To GORHAM. By boats from their respective piers on North 
Elver via New London, Stonington, or Newport, or by rail from 27th St. 
via Springfield and Worcester, or via New London and Providence to 
Boston ; thence by Eastern or Boston and Maine Railroad, or by boat 
from India Wharf daily (except Sunday), at 7 P. M. ; or from Com- 
mercial Wharf Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 8 A. M., to Port- 
land: thence by Grand Trunk Railroad to Alpine Housk; stage to 
Glen House. 

I (6). To Boston as above; thence by Boston and Lowell, and Con 
cord Railroads, or by Boston and Maine, and Concord, Manchester and 
Lawrence Railroads, to Concord, N. H. ; thence by Boston, Concord and 
Montreal Railroad, to Weirs ; thence by steamer to Centre Harbor or 
Wolfborough; 'thence by stage and rail, via North Conway to Glen 
House. Or, from Boston by Boston and Maine Railroad to Dover, N. H, ; 
thence by Dover and Winnipiseogee Railroad to Alton, steamer and 
stage.* 

I (c). To Portland as by I (a). Thence to North Conway over Port- 
land and Ogdensburgh Railroad, and thence by stage to Glen House.* 

I {d). To Boston as above. Thence by Eastern, and Great Falls and 
Conway Railroad, arriving at North Conway to dinner. Thence by 
stage to Glen House, arriving in season for supper. 

II (a). To White Mountain Notch. Same as I (6), (c), and (d). 

II (&). To Boston as above ; thence by Boston and Lowell, or Boston 
and Maine Railroad, and Concord, Manchester and Lawrence R. R., to 
Concord, N.H.; thenceby Boston, Concord andMontreal, or by Northern 
and Passurapeic Railroad, to Wells River, Vt.; thence by White Moun- 
tains Railroad to Bethlehem, N. H.; thence to Cuaavford House by 
stage. 

III (a). To Franconia Notch. Same as II (6). Stages run from 
Littleton, on arrival of the cars from Boston by either route, to the 
Profile House. 

Ill (6). To Concord, N. H., from Boston by Boston and Maine, oi 
Boston and Lowell R. R. ; from Concord by Boston, Concord and Mon- 
treal R. R. to Plymouth, N. H. ; thence by stage to Profile House up 
the beautiful valley of the Pemigewasset River. 

•■ Over night at North Conwat, N. H. 



238 WHITE JIOUJVTJlIJV GUIDE. 

>^EW YORK TO MOUNT MAXSFIELD VIA BOSTON". 
New Yokk to Boston via either Sound lines ; Boston to AYaterbury 
Via Concord, N. H., and White River Junction ; thence by stage to the 
Mt. Mansfield Hotel,. 

NEW YORK TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS BY WAY OP 
WORCESTER. 

I (rt). To GoRHAM. Boat to New London, and Norwich and Wor- 
cester Railroad,* or by railt from 27th St. via Springfield to Worces- 
ter; thence by Worcester and Nashua and Concord Railroads to Con- 
cord, N. H. ; thence by Boston, Concord and Montreal R. R. to Weirs ; 
thence by steamer to Centre Harbor or Wolf borough; thence by stage 
to North Conway and up the valley of the Ellis River. 

II (a). To Whitje Mountain Notch same as II («), preceding page. 
Stages run from Centre Harbor to Crawford House via North 
Conway and the valley of the Saco.t 

II (6). From Worcester to Concord, N. H. as above; thence by Bos- 
ton, Concord and Montreal, or by Northern and Passumpsio R. R., to 
Wells River; thence to Bethlehem; thence by stage to Crawford 
House. 

III (rt). To Franconia Notch. To Concord, N. H., as above; 
thence to eittleton as above ; thence by stage to Profile House. 

111(6). To Concord, N. H., as above; thence by Boston, Concord 
and Montreal R. R. to Plymouth ; thence by stage to Profile Housb. 

NEW YORK TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS BY WAY OF THE 
VALLEY OF THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. 
I. To the White Mountain Notch, or to Franconia Notch. 
By rail from 27th Stvoet, or by steamer from Peck Slip, via New Haven 
and Hartford, to Springfield, Mass.; thence by the Connecticut River 
R. R. to Greenfield and South Vernon, Vt. ; thence by the Vermont 
Valley R. R. to Bellows Falls ;\S thence by the Sullivan R. R. to 
Windsor; thence by the Vermont Central R. R. to the White River 
Junction ; thence by the Passumpsic to Wells River ; thence by the 
White Mountain R. R. to Littleton, N, H. ; thence by stage to Craw- 
ford House or Profile House. 

NEW YORK TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS BY WAY OF 
ALBANY AND RUTLAND, VT. 
I. To White Mountain or Franconia Notch. By rail or boat to 
Albany and Troy ; thence by Western Vermont, or Troy and Boston 



* Over night at North Conway, N. IT. 

t Over ni<rht at Concord, N. H., and North Conway. 

§ Over niglit at Bellows Falls. 



WHITE MOUJVTAIM GUIDE. 239 

R. R., or Rutland and Washington R. R,, to Rutland, Vt. ;* thence by 
Rutland and Burlington R. R. to Bellows Falls; thence by Sullivan, 
Vermont Central, Fassumpsio, and White Mountains Railroads to Lit- 
tleton; thence by stage to Cram'FOkd House or Profile House. 

I (a). Saratoga Springs to Franconia or White Mountaib 
Notch. Saratoga and Washington, Rutland and Washington R. R. tc 
Rutland; Rutland and Burlington R. R. to Bellows Falls; thena 
to Littleton as above; Stage to Profile House or Crawford House 

n (6). Saratoga and Whitehall R. R. to Moreau ; Stage to Caldwell' 
thence by Steamer to Lake George; Stage to Old Fort Ticonderoga^ 
thence by Steamer on Lake Charaplain to Burlington ; thence by Ver- 
mont Central R. R. to White River Junction ; stopping at Waterbury 
for Mount Mansfield; thence to Littleton; Stage to Profile House 
or Crawford House. 

NIAGARA FALLS TO THE WHITE MOUNTAIN'S. 

I (or). To Gorham. By rail to Lewiston ; thence by Steamer through 
Lake Ontario, and down the St. Lawrence River, or by Great Western 
Railroad to Hamilton, C. W. ; thence by Grand Trunk Railroad to 
Montreal ; thence by Grand Trunk to NoRXHUMBEKiiAND or Gor- 
ham. 

II (a). To THE White Mountain Notch and Franconia Notch. 
To Montreal as above, thence by Champlain and St. Lawrence Rail- 
road to Rouse's Point; thence by Vermont and Canada and Vermont 
Central Railroads t to White River Junction; thence by Passumpsic 
and White Mountains Railroad to Littleton and Bethlehem; thence 
by stage to Crawford House or Profile House. 

II (/>). To Lewiston by rail; thence by Steamer to Ogdensburg; 
thence by Northern (N. Y.) R. R. to Rouse's I'oint; thence to Little- 
ton and Crawford House and Profile House as above. 

11(c). Buffalo, Niagara Falls and Lewiston Railroad to Lewiston; 
Steamer to Montreal through Lake Ontario and down the River St. 
Lawrence; Grand Trunk to Sherbrooke ; Stage to Outlet Village, 
Lake Memphrcmagog, Steamer Mountain Maid to Newport, Vt. ; Con- 
necticut and Passumpsic River, and "^Tiite Mountain Railroads to Lit- 
tleton; Stage. 

II id). By New York Central Railroad via Rochester to Albany; 
thence by Rutland and Washington R. R. to Rutland, Vt. ; thence by 
Rutland and Burlington R. R. to Bellows Falls; thence to Whit^ 
River Junction, Wells River, and Littleton ; thence by stage. 

* Over nijrht at I^ttt and or r.F.T.i.ows Fm.t.s. 

+ StoD at AVa I i.KHi i.v iMi- Stowk and Man.siiki.d MorNTAiN.s. 



ALTITUDES. 



Alpine House 802 feet 

Bethlehem 1,450 

" Bridge, 1,221 

Concord (R. R. Station), 237 

Conwa}' Intervales 471 

Crawford House, 1,920 

Fabyan Place 1,551 

Franconia Village 921 

" Notch (highest point), 2,014 

Flume House, 1,431 

Gilmanton Hill, summit between Franconia and Littleton 1,329 

Glen House, 1,632 

Lancaster, 860 

Littleton, 817 

Pinkham Notch (highest point), 2,018 

Plymouth, 473 

Profile House, 1,974 

Willey House, .... ... 1,335 

Wiunipesaukee Lake, . . • . • . 501 



BOARDING HOUSES. 

— ♦— 

The following is a list of most of the Private Boarding 

Houses in the mountain region. The name of the proprietor 
is followed by the number of persons he can accommodate, 
and then the price per week, depending on the accommoda- 
tion required. 

BARTLETT. 

Frank George, 30, $7 to 12 

Arthur L. Meserve, 20, 6 to 10 

LOWER BARTLETT. 

W. M. & A. Pitman (East Branch House), . . . 7 to 1050 

Cornelius Stilphen, 20, 6 to 8 

LOWER BARTLETT (P. 0., No. Conway). 

Edwin C. Stokes, 50, 7 to 10.50 

Cyrus A. Tasker, 25, . . . . . . . 7 to 12 

BERLIN FALLS. 

Mount Forest House, 30, . . . . '. . . 7 to 14 

BETHEL, MAINE. 

C. T. Bartlett, 6 to 10 

Abiel Chandler, Jr., 6 to 8 

Rev. S. L. Gould, 6 to 10 

G. A. Hastings, 8 to 12 

Mrs. I. C. Kimball, 6 to 10 

Charles B. Lock, 6 to 8 

Woodson Mason, 6 to 8 

John Russell, 6to8 



242 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

J. A. Stockbridge, $7 to 10 

Alphln Twitchell, 6 to 10 

C. L. Twitchell, 6 to 8 

A. W. Valentine, 6 to 8 

WEST BETHEL. 

C. P. Grover, 

W. L. Grover, 

BETHLEHEM. 

Myron Bailey. 

J. K. Barrett (Howard House), 60, 7 to 12 

T. VV. Bean (Blue Bhnd House), 20, .... 

C. E. Bunker, 50, 

C. G. Eastman, 10, 

Joseph Philbrick, 12, 

Joseph Plummer (Cottage House), 25, . 

William Simpson, 

T. J. Spooner, 

Simon H. Thayer, 20, 

J. N. Turner, 20, 

H. W. Wilder, 20, 

S. F. Winch (White Mountain House), 30, . 
C.B.Young, 

CAMPTON VILLAGE. 

Joseph Cook, 40, 7 to 10 

Charles Cutter, 20, . . 7 to 10 

Henry Durgin, 20, 

Ephraim Elliott, 10, 

George Foss, 25, 

Osman C. Foss, 50, 8 to 10 

S. D. Kinsman, 16, 7 to 10 

Timothy W. Mitchell (Fountain House), 30, . . 7 to 9 

This house is situated on high table land, between the 
Pemigewassett and Mad Rivers, within three hours' drive of 
the Franconia Notch, with all its beautiful scenery. The 
view, overlooking the range of the White Mountains, is 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 243 

grand. A coach runs from this house daily, to connect with 
the trains at Plymouth. 

Dr. William Smith, 16, $7 to 10 

William Thornton, 20, 7 to 10 

Charles G. Webster, 10, 7 to 10 

S. C. Willey, 16, 7 to 10 

WEST CAMPTON. 

Joseph Blair, 40, 7 tolO 

T. J. Sanborn, 60, 7 tolO 

CENTRE HARBOR. 

Almon Benson, 50, 8 to 14 

R. L. Coe, 15, 7 to 14 

G. N. Emery, 20, 7 to 12 

S. F. Emery, 75, 8 to 14 

Timothy C Gordon, 12, 7 to 14 

A. M. Graves, 20, 8 to 14 

L. B. Hanson, 10, 7 to 12 

J. L. Huntress (Senter House), 175, . . • . 15 to 20 

B. F. Kelsea, 50, 8 to 14 

G. W. Kelsea, 20, 6 to 12 

J. H. Sturtevant, 30, 8 to 15 

C. H. Weeks, 12, 7 to 12 

B. F. Wentworth, 15, 8 to 15 

Stephen Wentworth, 14, 7 to 10 

FRANCONIA. 

Bent and Knight, 20, 7 to 10 

Jason Comey, 15, 7 to 10 

Milo J. Corliss, 15, 7 to 10 

Charles Edson, 25, 7 to 10 

E. H. Goodnow, 25, 7 to 10 

D. K. Priest, 15, 7 to 10 

Milo F. Shattuck, 25, 7 to 10 

Joel Spooner (La Fayette House), 50, . . . . 7 to 10 

HOLDERNESS. 
Nathaniel C. CoUey, 



244 WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 

JACKSON. 

J. M. Messerve, 35, $7 to 10.50 

LISBON (Sugar Hill). 

Hiram Noyes, 30, 7 to 10 

LITTLETON. 

Widow Ward Cobleigh, 8, 7'to 12 

Mrs. E. Eastman, 12, 7 to 9 

Jefferson Hosnier, 18, 10 to 14 

William Jennison, 20, 7 to 14 

C. C. Knapp & Co , 70, 10 to 14 

Dea. John Merrill, 12, 9 to 12 

MOULTONBOROUGH. 
B. M. & W. H. Mason, 20, 7 

This house is situated at the eastern base of Red Hill, 
within an hour's walk of the summit. It commands fine 
views of Ossipee, Chocorua, and Sandwich ranges, and is 
•within an hour's drive of the celebrated mineral spring and 
picturesque Ossipee Falls in Ossipee Mountain. Horses, 
carriages, &c. Children half-price. 

NORTH CONWAY. 

Albert Barnes & Co., 35, $7 to 12 

A. W. Barnes, 30, 7 to 10.50 

John Albert Barnes, 25, 7 to 13 

Mrs. E. F. Densmore, 28, 7 to 14 

Joseph F. Densmore, 25, 7 to 12 

Alfred Eastman, 45, 7 to 12 

J. Cummings Eastman, 18, 7 to 12 

Thomas C. Eastman, 20, 7 to 12 

This house is pleasantly situated at the south end of the 
village, overlooking the Saco Valley, and commanding a fine 
view of Chocorua, LLote Mountain and the Ledges, with a 
full view of the Mt. Washington range. Livery Stable and 
Bowling Alley connected with the house. 



WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. 



245 



Mrs. Isaac E. Merrill, 45, $7 to 13 

Mrs. Solomon D. Peadexter, 36, 7 to 12 

Willard Russell, 30, . . . . . . . 7 to 12 

John M. Seavey, 30, 7 to 12 

Levi Wheeler, 30, 7 to 12 

Charles H. Whitaker, 20, 7 to 12 

J. and E. Whitaker, 20, 7 to 12 

James C Willey, 30, 7 to 12 

PLYMOUTH. 

William G. HaU, 

A. C. Hardy, 7 to 10 

E. Smith, . . 

* THORNTON. 
W. M.Merrm, 

WEST THORNTON. 
Charles Weeks, 

WATERVLLLE. 
Merrill Greely, 

WOODSTOCK. 

James Darling, 10, 6 

Isaac Fox, 

C. F. Parker, 15, 7 

Stephen S. Shanon, 18, 7 

NORTH WOODSTOCK. 

Thomas Brewer, 

William Dearborn, 12, 7 

George F. Russell, 25, . . . . . T 

BRIDGEWATER (Nkar Plymouth). 

David Webster, 20 7 

Walter R. Webster, 15 7 

J. B. Marston, 15 7 



TABLE OF FARES. 



New York to Boston, by cars, . . . . $6.00 
'• " " " boat and cars, . . 5.00 
Boston to Gorham, N. H., by cars, . . . 6.00 
'* '• " " boat and cars, . 4.85 
Gorham to Glen House (stage), . . . .1.00 
Glen House to Crawford House (stage), . . 4.00 
'* " " North Conway " . . . 3.00 
Ascent of Mt. Washington, by carrjage road, in- 
cluding toll, .... 5.00 
" *' " " by bridle path, . 5.00 
" " " " by rail, . .^ 3.00 
up and back by same train, 4.00 

Descent** ♦' *♦ 3.00 

Crawford House to Bethlehem (stage), . 2.00 

" " *' Profile House " . . 4.00 

*' " Nohth Conway •« . . 3.50 

Profile Hoxjse to Littleton " . .2.00 

** " " Plymouth " . . 4.00 

Boston to Centre Harbor, via Lake, . . .3.60 

it «* WOLFEBOROUGH, '* " . . . 3.40 

♦' " " ♦♦ Eastern R. R., . 3.65 
Centre Harbor or Wolfeborough to North Con- 
way (stage), 3.50 

Boston to Alton Bay, via Dover, .... 2.90 

*' ** North Conway, via Dover, . . 6.90 

" '♦ " " " Eastern Railroad, 5.00 

♦* ♦• Portland and Ogd. R. R. and boat, . 3.00 

** ** White Mountains, via Dover, . . 9.90 

" '* Franconia Mountains, via Dover, . . 13.40 

*' •* Crawford House, via Concord, . 8.50 

** • " " " Eastern Railroad, 8.50 

*♦ *■ Profile House «« ». . . 8.50 
" " ** Plymouth (stage) 8.15 

Littleton (B. C. & M. or N. R. R.), . 6.50 

Plymouth, 4.15 

Profile House, via Northern Railroad, 8.15 

Crawford Hojjse, via " " 8.50 



«i 

, «i 



TABLE OF FARES. 247 

Boston to Lake Memphremagog, . . . $8.20 

*' *' Waterbury, Vt., . . . . 7.25 

Crawford^s to Montreal, via LennoxvIUe, . . 12.60 

♦* " Quebec, " " . . 12.50 

WATERBtJRY tO MaNSFIELD HoUSE AND SUMMIT 

House, and return, 4.00 

New York to Glen House, via Worcester, or New- 
port and Lowell, Concord, and 

North Conway, . . . 13.75 

♦* *' North Conway, via same, . . 11.75 

*' " Centre Harbor, " '* . . 8.25 

" " wolfeborough, *' ** . . . 8.55 

" " Plymouth, •♦ ♦♦ . . 8.20 

•' " Profile House, *♦ •• and Plymouth, 12.10 

♦' '♦ " " ** *♦ and Littleton, 11.00 

'* " Crawford's, *♦ ** and Bethlehem, 12.00 

" " Profile House, via Conn. River, . 11.25 

*♦ "Crawford's, " " '♦ . 12.75 
" " Profile House, via New London and 

Connecticut River, . . . 11.00 
*' " Crawford House, via same, . 12.50 
*• *' Profile House, via Albany and Rut- 
land, 14.35 

** '♦ Crawford's, via same, . . 15.85 
'* " Glen House, via Boston, Eastern 

R. R., and No. Conway, . . 12.00 

** ** Crawford House, via same, . 18.50 

*♦ " North Conway, «* " . . 10.00 
** " WoLFEBOROUGH, Via Boston and Eastern 

R. R., all rail 8.65 

'♦ «* " PlyxMOUTh, via boat to New Haven and 

thence rail, 9.70 

New York to Profile House, via Lake Champlain 

and Day Boats, $14.35 ; Night Boats, . . 13.85 
New York to Crawford House, via Lake Cham- 
plain and Day Boats, $15.85 ; Night Boats, . 15.35 
New York to Profile House, via Lake Champlain 

and H. R. R., 14.95 

New York to Crawford House, via Lake Cham- 
plain and H. R. R., 16.45 

White River Junction to Profile House, . 4.60 

♦' Crawford's, . . 6.60 

** " '* " Memphremagog Lake, 4.15 



INDEX. 



ALPiJTff House, . . . 

Altitudes, ..... 

Alton Bay, 150, 

Ammonoosuc Bridge, . . 

Artist's Fills, 

Ascent of Bald Mountain, . 

Copple Crown, • 

Moosilauke, . . 

Profile Mountain, 

Red Hill, . . . 

Mansfield Mountain, 

Mt, Clinton, . 

Mt. Franklin, 

Mt. Hayes, 

Mt. Kiarsarge, 

Mt. I,.afayette, 

Mt. Madison, . 

Mt. Moriah, . 

Mt. Surprise, . 

Mt. Washington, 17, 41, 

Mt. Willard, .... 

Owl's Head 

Prospect Hill, . . . 



Bald Mountain, 125 

Basin, 136 

Beecher's Falls, 107 

Bellows Falls, 215 

Berlin Falls, 21 

Bethel, Me., 173 

Bethlehem, 117 

Boarding Houses, 239 

Boston to Francouia. via 

Concord and Plymouth, 189, 208 
Concord, Plymouth, and 

Littleton, .... 189, 204 
Concord, White River Junc- 
tion, and Littleton, . . 189 
Boston to Gorham, by boat, . .172 
by cnrs, . 172 

Boston to Lake Willoughby, 189, 195 
to Mansfield Mountain, 224 
to Memphremagog, 189, 195, 
199 
Boston to WTiite Mountain 
Notch, via 
Concord, Lake Winnipesau- 

kee, and Conway, . 189, 212 



Concord, Plymouth, and 

Littleton 189, 204 

Concord, White River Junc- 
tion, and Littleton, . 189 

Dover, Lake Winnipesaukee, 

and Conway, .... 187 
Bryant's Pond, 173 

Carriage Road to Mt. Wash- 
ington, ...... 41 

Cascades (Basin) 138 

Cascade (Profile House), . . .126 

Cathedral 163 

Centre Harbor; 156 

Centre Harbor to No. Conway 

and Crawford House, . 150, 159 
Cherry Mountain Road, . . . 82, 65 

Chocorua, 160 

Clinton, Mt., 97 

Colebrook, 179 

Concord, 190 

Concord to Franconia, via 

Plymouth 208 

Plymouth and Littleton, . . 204 

White River Junction, . . . 189 
Concord to White Mountain 
Notch, vi* 

Lake Winnipesaukee and 

Conway, 212 

Littleton, 189 

Conway, 160 

Copple Crown Mountain, . . . 155 

Crawford House, 81 

Crawford House Plateau, ... 83 
Crawford House to Profile 

House, 114 

Crystal Cascade, 60 

Dkvil's Den, 87 

Diana's Bath, 164 

Dixville Notch, 178 

Eagle Cliff 123 

Echo^Lake (Conway), ... . 103 
Echo Lttke (Franconia), .... 122 
Emerald Pool, 54 

Fares, Table of, 244 

Flume (Franconia), 139 



INDEX. 



249 



Flume (Notch), 88 

Flume House, 139 

Franoonia Notch, 119 

Franklin, Mt., 99 

Fryeburg, 188 

Garnet Pools, 53 

General View of Koutes, . . . 235 

Georgianna Falls, 144 

Gibbs's Falls, 92 

Glen, 36 

Glen Ellis FaU, 65 

GJen House, 37 

Glen to Crawford House, Cherry 

Mountain, 35 

by Notcb, 40, 64 

Glen to North Conway, ... 40, 64 

Goodrich Falls, 70 

Gorham, N.H., 14 

Gorham to Crawford House, 

Cherry Mountain Road, 32 

by Glen, 64 

Gorham to Franconia, Cherry 

Mountain Road, ... 33 

Gorham to Glen, 17, 31 

Great Gulf, 100 

Hayes, Mt 28 

Hermit Lake, 62 

Imp, .... 86 

Island House 154 

Island Fond, 178 

Jackson, 68 

Jackson Falls Hotel 68 

Jefferson, 33 

Keausarge, Mt., 190 

Kiavaarge, Mt., 165 

Lafayette, Mt , 131 

Lake of the Clouds, 101 

Lancaster, 194 

Lary's, View from, 15 

Lead Mine Bridge, 19 

Littleton, 193 

Lower Ammonoosuc FaJls, . . . 116 

Madison, Mt., 29 

Mansfield House, 224 

Mountain, 226 

Marshfield, Ill 

Memphremagog, Lake, . . 177, 199 

Monroe, Mt 100 

Moosilauke Mountain, .... 206 

Moriah, Mt., 25 

Moss Glen Falls, 232 



Mountain House, 201 

Mountain Region, 13 

Mt. Crawford House, ..'... 75 
Mount Washington Carriage 

Road, 41 

tolls on, 42 

Nancy's Brook and Bridge, 74 

Newbury, 193 

Newport, Vt., 199 

New York to Boston, yia 

Stonington, 168 

New London and Norwich, 170 
Newport and Fall River, . . 169 

'' Shore Line," 171 

Springfield, .171 

New York to Concord, N. H.,. 

via Worcester, .... 212 
New Y'ork to Franconia, via 

Luke Champlain, .... 221 
Boston and Concord, . 169, 190 
North River and Bellows 

Falls, 218 

Springfield and Bellows Falls, 213 
New London Northern R. R., . . 217 
New York to White Mountains 
(Gorham), via Boston and 
Portland .... 168, 172 
New York to White Mountain 
Notch, via 
Boston, Concord, and Con- 
way, 168,212 

Boston, Dover, and Con- 
way, 168,187 

Boston, Portland, and Con- 
way, 168,186 

Niagara Falls to White Mountains, 222 

North Conway, 161 

to Crawford House, . . 71, 167 

to Glen, 71, 167 

Notch, White Mountains, ap- 
proach to, 76 

Notch, Head of, 80 

Oakes's Gulf, 100 

Outlet Village, 201 

Owl's Head Mountain, .... 200 

Pavilion Hotbl, 154 

Pemigewasset House, 209 

Pleasant, Mt., 9S 

Plymouth, 208 

Pool, 143 

Portland to Conway, 186 

Preliminary View, 5 

Profile, The 127 

Profile House, 120 

Profile Lake. 131 



250 



INDEX. 



Profile Mountain, 124 

Railroad up Mt. Washington, 108 

Itandolph Hill, 20 

Red Hill 158 

Routes, General View of, ... 235 
Rutland, 217 

Saco Valltsy, 71 

Sawyer-s Kock, 72 

Screw Auger Falls, 175 

Senter House, 156 

Silver Cascade, 89 

Smuggler's Notch, 232 

Snow Arch, 64 

Sparkling Cascade and Sylvan 

Glade Cataract, 90 

Squam Lake, 159 

Stowe, Vt., 224 

Summit House, Mt. Washing- 
ton, 49,103 

[S. H.]., Mansfield, 228 

Surprise, Mt., 26 

Summit of Mt. Washington, 47, 102 

Telegraph at 

Crawford House, .... 83 

Glen House, 38 

Gorham 14 

Profile House, 122 

Thompson's Falls, 63 

Thousand Streams, ..... 63 
Tip Top House, .... 49, 104 
Tuckerman's Ravine, .... 61 
Twin Mt. House, 116 



Umbagog Lake, 175 

Upper Ammonoosuc Falls, . . . 109 
Upper Bartlett House, .... 72 

View op Berlin Falls, ... 22 
Carter and Imp Mouin- 

tain from Gorham, 16 
Centre Harbor, . . . 157 
Crystal Cascade, . . 60 
Dixville Notch, . . .178 
The Flume, .... 141 
The Gate of the Notch, 13,84 
Glen Ellis Fall, ... 56 
The Profile, . . 128, 130 

Walker's Falls, 185 

Washington, Mt., ... 41, 93, 108 
Washington. View from Mt., 48, 105 
Washington. Night on, .... 50 

Waterbury, Vt., 224 

Waterville, 210 

Waumbeck House, 33 

Weirs, 150 

Wells River, 194 

White Mountain House, .... 115 
White Mountain Range, ... 95 
White River Junction, .... 192 
Winnipesaukee Lake, .... 146 

Willard, Mt., 85 

Willey House, 77 

Willoughby Lake, .... 177, 197 

Winslow House, 190 

Wolfeborough, 154 

Wolfeborough to North Conway 
and Crawford House, . 150, 153 



SEE THAT YOU ARE RIGHT, THEN GO AHEAD. 
FACTS ! FACTS ! 

EASTERN RAILROAD, 1873. 

— • — 

SEA SHORE ROUTE TO 

NORTH CONWAY AND WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



The Conway Division of the Eastern Railroad was opened to the public, 
June 24th, 1872, and is the Shortest Route to North Conway and the 
Glen and Crawford House. 

TWO PAST EXPRESS TRAINS 

(Each way, daily,) 
Leaving Boston at 8.10 A.M., and 3.35 P.M., arriving at North Conway 
at 1.00 and 7.30 P.M., Wolfborough at 13.35 and 6.59 P.M. 

Distance.— Boston to No. Conway, 137 3Iile&. 

31 miles shorter to North Conway, €rlen, and 
Cravvford^s than any other Itonte- 

A FAST LINE OF STAGES, 

AND THE ONLY LINE BETWEEN 

NORTH CONWAY AND GLEN, 

Will leave the Eastern Railroad Station and Hotels at 8.00 A.M. and 
/8.30 P.M., — allowing ample time for dinner — advantages offered by no 
other line. 

Passengers to and from the Mountains will find this the only direct route 
to and from the following places : — 

Chelsea, Pigeon Gove, Boar's Head, Eye Beach, Isle of 
Shoals, and York Beach. 

{See Eastman's Coast Guide.) 

« 

The only Line riimiing JPullman Cars 

TO 

NOETH COITiVAY AND WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

— ♦ — 
All Modern Improvements are in use on this Road. 

Seats in Parlor Cars can be secured by letter or telegraph at the 

Boston Office^ 134: Wasliingtoii Street, 

Before purchasing Tickets. ref»-r to Mnps, Advertisements, &c., of this Com- 
pany, to be obtained at the Ticket Offices in 
NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE ^ WASHINGTON. 

ALSO 

Of Principal Ticket Agents in the UNITED STATES, and secure the many 
advantages this line offers. 

J. PEESOOTT, Sup't. 

GEOT^r.E RDSaETJi, GEOUGE V. FIELD, 

UeiKial licke-t Ageiit. General I'ass. Agent. 



TO TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS. 



THE 



mmi mm, aid mi mu hie 

Forms the most direct and best route between 



New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, and White 

and Franconia Mountains, Lancaster, Littleton, Centre 

Harbor, Plymouth, North Conway, Laconia, 

Bethlehem, Concord, Manchester, Nashua, 

and Lowell. 



Passengers should take the magnificent Steamers of the Fall River Line, 
the BRISTOL or J^ROVIDENCE, leaving Pier No. 30, North River, 
at 5.15 P.M. ; arriving at Fall River at 5 a.m. 

BREAKFAST. —Those who wish can procure a good Breakfast on board 
of the Steamer before taking the train 

EXPRESS TRAIN. — The Steamboat Express Passenger Train 



Will leave 


Pall River . . 


at 


. 5.50 A.M 


Passing 


Taunton . 




. 6.30 „ 




Mansfield . 




. 6.55 „ 


)) 


South Framingham 




. 7.55 „ 




Washua 




9.18 „ 


" 


Manchester 




. 9.52 


'' 


Concord . 




. 10.30 „ 




■Weirs, Lake Winni 


pe'saukee ',', 


. 12.00 M. 


)i 


Plymouth . 




. 1250 P.M 




( There stopping for Dinner.) 






Littleton . 


• • )t 


. 3.30 „ 


»t 


Bethlehem 




. 4.00 „ 



House, 4 miles; White Mountain House, 8 miles; Crawford House, 13 miles ; 
Mount Washington Railway Depot, 14 miles. Arrive at. Crawford House, 
White Mountain Notch, at 6.30 p.m., — making the best route for all White 
Mountain travel. 

For North Conway and Centre Harbor, passengers will leave the train 
at Weirs, Lake Winnipesaukee, at 12 00 M., and take the New Steamer 
''LADY OF THE LAKE," &nA sail 10 miles over the most inter- 
esting portion of the Lake, and arrive at Senter House, Centre Harbor, at 
1.00 P.M Stop one hour for dinner, then take staje for a distance of 14 miles 
to West Ossipee, and there connect with train for North Conway, 16 miles, 
arrive at 7 P M., making this the shortest and most interesting route for tha 
pleasure travel. 



. 9.00 A.M. 


. 9.30 „ 


. 10.00 „ 


. 10.30 „ 


. 1.00 P.M. 


2.00 „ 



FOR PROFILE HOUSE. — Passengers for the Profile House cfm leave 
the train at Plymouth at 1 00 p.m . there taking dinner ; then take stage for 
a distance of 28 miles up the Femigewasset Valley to Profile House, Franco- 
nia Mountain, arriving there at 7.00 p.m. ; or continue on by rail from Plym- 
outh to Littleton, arriving there at 3 30 p M., there connecting with stage for 
Profile House, 11 miles, and arriving at 6.00 P.M. 

5I^°" Passengers will arrive at all points in the White 3Iountains two hours 
in advance of any other line. 

Tourists journeying leisurely can delay at the various points of interest 
along the line, and will find the best of hotel accommodations. 

TO isTE-w- -stoi^-k:- 

Express Train will 

Leave Nortliuniberland . . at 
„ Lancaster 
„ Bethlehem 
„ Littleton . 
„ Plymouth 
,, "Weirs, Lake Winnipesaukee, 

Connecting with Steamer «* T,ady of the T,ake " from Centre Harbor, 
bringing passengers from there and North Conway. Also, stages from differ- 
ent houses at mountains arrive at different points of taking cars, and connect 
with this train. 

Arriving at Concord at 3.20 p.m. Passing So. Framingham at6 65 P.M 

Leave Concord „ 3.25 ,, „ Taunton „ 8.00 „ 

„ Manchester „ 4.50 „ „ Fall River „ 8.15 „ 

,, Nashua ,, 5.00 ,, Arriving at Newport ,, 8.45 „ 

There connecting with Steamers Sristol or Providence, arriving in New 
York at 5.00 a.m., in season for the early morning trains going West and 
South. 

Elegant l>raiving-Itootn Cars are to be placed upon this line on 
and after June 17, and run between Lancaster, N.H., and Newport, R.I., 
without change. 

Travellers will find this to be unsurpassed by any other route. The 
Steamers are superior to any, and elegant State-rooms on Steamers, or apart- 
ments in Drawing-Room Cars can be secured at the ticket ofiice of Fall Hiver 
Line in New York, or at any of the principal hotels and ticket offices at 
mountain houses and railroad stations on the line. Experienced attendants 
will accompany each through car, and pay every attention to the welfare of 
passengers. 

It will be readily seen that via this route passengers will avoid the tedioua 
delays, frequent changes of cars, and transfers of baggage, which exist via 
other routes. 

Sure Connections are made via this Line. 

Throngh Tickets, and Baggage Checked through, to and from all Important Points. 

Askjbr Tickets via Concord, Nashua, and Fall River Line. 

A. P. BACON, Supt. Steamers N. S. S. Co. 

J. R. KENDRICK, Supt. 0. C. & N. R. R. 

A. E. SWAZEY, „ T. B. R. R. 

H. A. BLOOD, „ B. C. & F. R. R. 

H. E. CHAMBERLAIN, „ Concord R. R. 

J. A. DODGE, „ B. C & M. R. R., and White Mt. R'y 



BOSTON, CONCORD, MONTREAL, 

•find HViite •Jflonntains R.R , 

Lake "Winnipesaukee, North Conway, "White and Franconia 
Mountains, Montreal and Quebec, vin Boston, Con- 
cord, Montreal, and "White Mountains U.K.., 

NOW OPEN TO TWIN MOUNTAIN AND NORTHUMBERLAND, 

The Shortest, Quickest, and only Direct Railroad Route to the White 
and Franconia Mountains without Change of Cars. 

SUJanLUB. ILIiB,A.NGinSlTiNT. Commencing July 1, 1873. 



Trains leave Boston at 8 a.m. (Express), 12 M., 6 P.M. from Lowell Depot, 

Trains leave Boston at 7 30 A M., 12 M., 5 p.m. from Boston & Maine Depot, 
CONNECTING AT NASHUA WITH EXPRESS TRAINS 
From Fall River, Providence. New London, and Worcester, for White Moud< 
tains, via Laconia, Weirs, Plymouth, Littleton, Bethlehem, Twin Mountain, 
Lancaster, and Northumberland;, and to St. Johnsbury and Newport, Vt. 

At Weirs passengers take the Steamer " Lady of the Lake " for Centre 
Harbor, Wolfeboro', and North Conway. Those leaving by the first trains 
dine at Centre Harbor or Wolfeboro' ; arrive at North Conwaj' same evening. 

Passengers leaving Boston at 7.30 or 8 00 a.m. ( Expres.*) connect at Plymouth 
with .stages (28 miles), and at Littleton (11 miles), for Profile House; at Beth- 
lehem (3 miles), for Sinclair House; at Twin Mountains (4 miles), for White 
Mountains and Fabyan Houses — (9 miles) for Crawford House — (10 miles) 
for Mount Washington Railway Depot ; at Lancaster (7 miles), for Waumbek 
House; arriviiig at all the above-named points before 630 P.M., and in 
advance of any other route. 

Trains connect at Northumberland with Grand Trunk Railway, direct for 
Montreal and Quebec. 

By the 12.00 M. train from Boston, passengers reach Wolfeboro', Centre 
Harbor, and Plymouth, at 5. 30 P.M., and by the 5.00 or 6.00 P.M. traing 
arrive at Plymouth 10.30 P M. 

FROM NEW YORK. 

The Norwich Line of steamers, " City of Boston " and " City of New 
Yorifc," connect with the first Express train up in the morning by the route 
from Norwich through Worcester to Nashua. 

By the Fall Kiver Line of steamers, '* Bri5io/" and ^^ Providence," via 
Newport, Fall River, Framingham, and Lowell, connecting at Lowell by the 
first AM. Express train up, thus making by either route a direct line from 
New York to all points in the Mountains. 

FROM PHIT^ADELPHIA AND THE SOTTTH. 

Passengers leaving Philadelphia to connect with Norwich or Fall River 
boats in New York can reach the Mountains next day, having a night's rest 
on board the steamers. This forms the best and most direct route TO Balti- 
more and the Southern cities. 

A train leaves Plymouth at 7.35 A.M. daily for Northumberland. Passen- 
gers by this train reach all the Mountain Houses in season for dinner and 
Montreal at 8 P M. 

THE ONLY LINE RUNNING DAY PALACE CARS and Express 
Trains between Boston, Fall River, Newport, New London, and the White 
Mountains, 

Further information, seats in Palace Cars, and Excursion Tickets for the 
round trip for all routes in the Lake and Mountain region, and to Montreal, 
Quebec, and Saratoga, via the White and Franconia Mountains, can be had 
at No. 5 State Street, Boston. 

J. A. DODGE, Supt., Plymouth, N.H. 
W. W. BERG, Pass. Agent, Boston. 



FALL RIVER LINE, 

VIA, WJLZuTu RIVER A.N1D IS^EV^JPORT. 



TO JTEl^ VORK^ 

Via OLD COLONY RAILWAY. Cars leave the Station of the 
Old Colony Railway, Corner of Kneeland and South Streets, 
Boston (DAILY), at 4.30 P.M. by the Accommodation Train, at 
5.30 P.M. by the Steamboat Kxpress Train (via Fall River), for the world 
renowned Steamer.^ PiiOrJZ>ii'iVC'JB and BRISTOL. 

TICKETS for this line Steamers, Berths, and State Rooms obtained at 
No. 3 OLD STATE HOUSE, Corner Washington and State 
Streets, Boston, and at the Old Colony Railway Station, cor- 
ner of Kneeland and South Streets. 

4®=- Hall's Brass, String, and Reed Band, engaged for the Season. 

Passengers are landed in the immediate vicinity of the New Jersey, Pavonia, 
and Desbrosses-Strt-et Ferries (California and European Steamers). 

THROUGH TICKETS to Philadelphia, Wilmington, Bal- 
timore, Washington, West, South, South-West, California, 
&c. BasTffHire checked and transferred in New York. 

TO SHIPPEHS OF FREIGHT. — This line, with its well-known 
Depot accommodations in Boston, and large Piers in Fall River, Newport, and 
New York, is supplied with facilities for Freight and Passenger Business 
which cannot, be surpassed. Freight forwarded with despatch. 

New York Express Freight Trains leave Boston at 1 30 p.m. 
Goods arrive in New York next morning about 6 a.m. Freight leaving New 
York at 5 15 p.m. reaches Boston on the following day at 9.45 a.m. 

A. P. BACON, Superintendent. 

H. H. MAN GAM, General Freight Agent, 

Pier Z8 North River, New York. 

GEO. SHIVERICK, Freight and Passenger Ag't., 

No. 3, Old State House, Boston. 

EASTMAN'S 

EASTERN COAST GUIDE, 

With Map of the Eastern Coast, and of the Railroads and Townships of 
New England ; also a Map of Cape Cod Railroad, 

This book is very useful to Travellers and Tourists, and interesting to the 
general reader ; being a complete GUIDE BOOK to Newport, Nan- 
tucket, Martha's Vineyard, Cape Cod, South Shore, East- 
ern Kailroad and Coast, Hampton, Rye, Old Orchard, and 
other Beaches, Mount Desert, and further East. 

This is a companion book to Eastman^s " White Mountain Guide.'''' 
16mo. Flexible cloth. Price $1.50. Sent free by mail on receipt of price. 
The Commonwealth, Boston, says: "The Eastmans of Concord, N.H., 
did good service with their ' White Mountain Guide.' They now have pre- 
pared an ' Ea.<tern Coast Guide,' which is a hand-book of the coast from New- 
port to Mount Desert, — very full, very accurate, and just the thing for the 
season. " 

The Salem Register says : " Eastman's Guide Books are always good." 

EDSON C. EASTMAN, Publisher, 

CONCIORD, N.H. 



NORTHERN (N. H.) RAILROAD. 



WHITE, FRMCOM, MD MMSFIELD 

3j:oxjivtaiivs. 



Willoughby and Magog Lakes. 



VIA THE NORTHERN (N. H.) RAILROAD. 



Passeuger Trains leave Concord on arriyal of Trains firom Boston, TVorc«B« 
ter, Portsmouth, &c.,for Wells River, Littleton, Whitefield, St. Johnsbury, 
Newport, and Magog Lake, Mansfield Mountain, Burlington, Rouj?e"s Point, 
Montreal, Ogdensburgh, the West, &c., at 10.35, Express (Drawing-room Car 
from Boston with this train), and 10.40, A.M. ; also at 8.35 P.M., for White River 
Junction, Montpelier, Mansfield Mountain, Rouse^s Point, Montreal, Og- 
densburgh, and the West, reaching Montreal and Ogdensburgh the next 
morning. 

Trains leave TVTiite Eiver Junction, at 1.50,* A. M., 12.20, and 5.20, 
p. M., or on arrival of trains from the Vermont Central, Passuraipsic, 
and White Mountains Roads, with passengers leaving ]iIagog Lake and 
the Mansfield, White, and Franconia Mountains the same morning, for 
Boston, Portsmouth, Lawrence, Lowell, Worcester, Providence, New- 
port, New York, &c. 

Trains each way stop at White River Junction, for passengers to 
dine. 

VISITORS TO THE WHITE AND MANSFIELD MOUNTAINS 
AND FEANCONIA NOTCH, 

from Boston, Newport, New York, and the South, via Portsmouth, 
Lawrence, Lowell, Nashua, Worcester, Norwich, Providence, Concord, 
Northern, Passumpsic, and White Mountains Railroads to Littleton 
(stage eleven mile* to Profile House), Twin Mountain House, which is the 
nearest point reached by cars to the White Mountain Notch and Railway to 

* mis train ia run through to Boston on Sunday. 



summit of Mt. Washington, will find this a pleasant route, through the Val- 
ley of the Merrimack and Connecticut Rivers, by Dartmouth College, Nor- 
wich University, the Sulphur Springs of Newbury, Vt., — and as cheap as 
any other route. 

Newport Station, on the Passumpsic River Railroad, is at the head of 
Magog Lake. Willoughby Lake is five miles from West Burke Station, 
on the same road. Waterbary Station, on the Vermont Central Road, 
is ten miles from Mount Mansfield House. 

THE MOUNTAIN REGIONS OF VERMONT. 

The mountain regions of Vermont present attractions to the seeker 
after pleasure unsurpassed by any spot in New England. The Green 
Mountains are justly celebrated, and the view from Mount Mansfield 
(the highest peak) is most splendid. This mountain is five thousand 
feet high, and from it may be obtained a magnificent view of the 
whole range of the Green Mountains, also the Valley, Lake Cham- 
plain, with its numerous islands and busy steamers. Burlington, Ti- 
conderoga, and Plattsburgh are directly before the eye, and the Adi- 
rondac Mountains, in New York, in the distance. Montreal, seventy 
miles, and the White Mountains, one hundred miles distant, can be 
seen with the naked eye. Fifty villages, and every county in the State, 
are visible from the summit. There is an excellent Hotel upon the 
summit, and at the foot of the mountain, that splendid Hotel, the 
"Mansfield House," offers attractions to make one's stay agreeable; 
and all who become the guests of its hospitable proprietors, can ex- 
claim, with truth, "I am at home ! " 

Passengers make quick connection at White River Junction, and 
proceed to Waterbury, on the Vermont Central Railroad, from which 
point they take passage to Stowe by stage. The ride to Stowe (10 
miles) is over a beautiful road, where is found the new Hotel, the 
"Mansfield House," with all the modern improvements; and the vil- 
lage itself cannot be surpassed for a quiet summer residence. 

Tickets to Detroit from Boston, Concord, and Portsmouth, and 
intermediate points, via this route, $15.00. From Bellows Falls, Mont- 
pelier. White River Junction, and other stations in Vermont, $lCt. 
Good for ten days. From Boston to Detroit, and return, good for 
thirty days, $•'^0. Fare from Detroit to Chicago, $S.5f>. 

This Line is supplied with good Sleeping' and Smoking' Cars, 
and ICefreslimeut Saloons, unsurpassed by any other route. 

Also new and elegant I>ra%ving-Room Cars on day Express 
Train from Boston. 

l^r General Office^ No. 63 Washington Street, Boston, Mass, 

L. MILLIS, 

Gen. Agent Vermont Central Line. 



NASHUA, ACTON, 

AND 

BOSTON RAILROAD. 



The most direct Line between 



BOSTO]Sr<Sz> KT^SHIXJ^ 



WIT SOU T CHANGE OF CABS. 



Vrhite Mountain Line. 



This Road is the connecting link between the Concord R.R. at Nashua, 
and the Framingham and Lowell R.R. at Concord Junction, making the most 
direct route from 

Newport, Fall River, New Bedford, Taunton, Ston- 
ington, and Providence 

Passengers from New York by the Fall Rirer Line pass OTer this route in the 

SPLENDID PARLOR CARS 

Provided for this route, and new and eletjant passenger Coaches, making the 
tiip from Fall River to the White Mountuins WITHOUT CHAJSGE. 

Leave Fall River on arrival of Boat from New York. Passengers from 
Boston leave from Fitchburg Depot, connecting at Concord Junction with 
trains north, rciiching Profile, Crawford, or Twin Mountain Houses same 
afternoon. 

PETER B. BRIGHAM, President. 
ED. H. SPALDING, Vice-President. 
STANLEY MANSFIELD, Superintendent. 
A. P. BUGBEE, General Freight Agent. 
R, M. BO WEN, General Ticket Agent. 



.,., ^k 




t 



Passengers eii-ronte for the "West, mIio travel l»y way of 
THE GREAT I»EIV]VSYt.TAIVIA R, R, have the privileg-e 
of visiting- and stopping- over, for any l ength of time in the 
cities of IVew York and ¥»hila«lelphia, AVITHOUT EXTRA 
CHAROE. Tickets g-ood until used, Bag-gag- e checked 
throu g-h. Heavy Steel Rails. Suspension Joints, Poul^le 
Track, Road ha Hasted ^vith a hed of hroken linie -stone 
twenty iuches deep« Free from dust and th e action of 
Frost, Sron or ston e hridg-es, jVo Trestle-Morh. Trains 
run l»y Teleg-raph. Perfect Sig-nal Service, "Westing-house 
Air Rrakes. Cars lig-hted hy g-as and heated hy steam. 
Pullman Pay and Sleeping Cars to Citicago, Cincinnati, 
Indianapolis, liouisville, St. Ijouis, and intemtediate points 
" Without Change, and to Quincy, Kansas City, Sioux City , 
Omaha, Cleveland, Jflilwaukee, St. Paul, ITIemphis, ITIohile, 
I Vew^ Orleans, and Pe nnison, Texas, IVith hut One Change 
of Cars, Continuous Trains— no connections to miss, No 
Iflidnight Changes. IVo Petention from Snow, Courteous 
Employees, Unuxual facilities for I?Ieals at suitahle hours, 
UIVEQtJAI..EP in Structure, Equipment, Speed, Comfort, 
an«l Security. Unrivalled in Beauty and variety of Scenery, 
Rates always as I^on- as l»y any other Route, 



THROUGH TICKETS 

To all Points ill tlic Westki;n ct Soutiikkn Statks for Sale at 

77 and 79 Washington Street, Boston, 

And Principal Ticket Offices in New England, 

CYRUS S. HALDEMAN, New England Agent. 



